Cullen Diana Madeline 2023

"This is perhaps the finest young Australian Cabernet I can recall seeing. Simply brilliant." Ken Gargett
"I can say absolutely that I have never had a better Diana Madeline than this. Great wine." Ray Jordan
"It has an extraordinarily long future ahead of it. It's immune to hyperbole." Erin Larkin
"So much purity and precision. Mouthwatering granitic finish." James Suckling
"A huge and astonishing wine that has enormous potential." Huon Hooke
"It has concentrated, fabulous fruit. It’s a gorgeous drink." Jane Faulkner
"In a word, stunning. The best vintage in recent memory." Angus Hughson

Cullen is an iconic Margaret River winery and the Diana Madeline is their flagship red wine. It is famed for its quality and consistency, is sought after by collectors world-wide and is a worthy regional benchmark. It is a classic Cabernet Sauvignon dominant Bordeaux blend grown on an exemplary vineyard. The Cullen vineyard has been certified both Organic and Biodynamic since 2004. 

"Put bluntly, this is perhaps the finest young Australian Cabernet I can recall seeing. It is simply brilliant. An inky dark maroon colour, this is concentrated and seamless. We have aromas of dark, rich chocolate, cocoa beans, plums, beef stock, graphite, mulberries, cloves and blackberries. Elegance and refinement here, this is all class and there is wonderful length, with the wine finishing with the silkiest tannins. There is immaculate balance and amazing intensity and yet the wine dances with freshness and energy. The image that keeps appearing here is Muhammed Ali at his peak, dancing with grace. The more time in the glass or in an open bottle you can give it, the more reward will come. Surely one of the greatest Cabernets made in this country, perhaps Vanya’s best ever, and it confirms that 2023 in Margaret River – a region of seemingly endless fine vintages – is truly special. Why not 100? I do feel it deserves it, but I simply do not trust Vanya not to come up with something even better next vintage."  Ken Gargett

"Deep Ruby and Mulberry core with firm Garnet rim and faded velvet red brick. Attractive perfumed liquorice cherry & chocolate bouquet laced with a floral scent of rose and violets and framed by salty plum and iodine ironstone with a demure spice of curry leaf. A profound wine of vigorous depth and harmonious concentration. Fine grained tannins that wrap around the palate with a juicy and unctuous structure of plums, rich chocolate, cassis, and cherries, unfolding glances of cedar and sandalwood sitting with grace and silk length at the back palate. A great example of finesse. Drink now or cellar up to 50 years"  Cullen
 

Cullen Wines

Expert reviews

"Put bluntly, this is perhaps the finest young Australian Cabernet I can recall seeing. It is simply brilliant. The blend is 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Merlot, with that last one percent a mix of Malbec and Petit Verdot. The maturation was for fourteen months in French oak, with 40% of it new. An inky dark maroon colour, this is concentrated and seamless. We have aromas of dark, rich chocolate, cocoa beans, plums, beef stock, graphite, mulberries, cloves and blackberries. Elegance and refinement here, this is all class and there is wonderful length, with the wine finishing with the silkiest tannins. There is immaculate balance and amazing intensity and yet the wine dances with freshness and energy. The image that keeps appearing here is Muhammed Ali at his peak, dancing with grace. The more time in the glass or in an open bottle you can give it, the more reward will come. Surely one of the greatest Cabernets made in this country, perhaps Vanya’s best ever, and it confirms that 2023 in Margaret River – a region of seemingly endless fine vintages – is truly special. Why not 100? I do feel it deserves it, but I simply do not trust Vanya not to come up with something even better next vintage."  Ken Gargett, Wine Pilot – 99 points

"Okay. I’ve tasted every one of the Diana Madeline vintages, and I can say absolutely that I have never had a better one than this. Opens with a highly scented perfume that lifts exotically from the glass. Then notes of bay leaf and black olive fill out a little before more ethereal notes of violet and glazed cherry emerge. The palate carries the typical firm thread of tannin that marks the style, but there is a warm wrap of fleshy, succulent fruit. Structured and vibrant with an underlying energy. A wine of tremendous energy and verve. Great wine. Cellar: 35 years."  Ray Jordan, Wine Pilot – 99 points

"The 2023 Diana Madeline looks as good as ever. The 2023 vintage was superb in almost every way a vintage can be: long, dry, mild and devoid of major heat or viticultural challenges, and while some of the very late ripening red varieties (in specific pockets) had the potential to be affected by some autumn rain, pretty well everything got through without a hitch. It has piercing notes of cassis, bay leaf, raspberry pip, licorice and exotic spice. It is long, balanced and eminently harmonious, and it has an extraordinarily long future ahead of it. It's immune to hyperbole. 13.7% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.  Drink: 2025 - 2053."  Erin Larkin, Wine Advocate - 98+ points

"Very deep, saturated purple colour introduces a very big and powerful DM. Amazing intensity and lots of stuffing. Chocolate, vanilla, black fruits galore. A huge and astonishing wine that has enormous potential. (A big cabernet sauvignon year - 94%). Drink: 2029–2050."  Huon Hooke, The Real Review - 98 points

"So much purity and precision, showing aromas of blackcurrants, graphite, violets, cedar and licorice with a core of black fruit intertwined with undertones of spices, bitter chocolate and iron. The wonderfully poised palate has firm yet refined tannins and a plush, midweight mouthfeel. Mouthwatering granitic finish. The structure and tension will develop for decades. Made from 94% cabernet sauvignon, 2% merlot, 3% cabernet franc and touches of malbec and petit verdot. Excellent. Screw cap. Drink or hold."  James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com

"The 2023 Diana Madeline is almost pure Cabernet Sauvignon with 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Merlot with splashes of Malbec and Petit Verdot. It opens with superb purity and definition showing cassis and violet aromas with subtle leafy and cedary tones plus beautifully integrated oak after 14 months in 40% new French. A seamless balance exists between serious tannins and layered flavours, holding a steady hand through a finish of extreme length. In a word, stunning. The best vintage in recent memory. Drink: 2035-2060."  Angus Hughson, Wine Pilot - 97 points

"This Diana Madeline delights as soon as it's poured. A deep, dark purple-red and so vibrant. Ah the aromas next – all cedar wood, oak spices and warm earth with fresh mulberries and blackberry essence. It has concentrated, fabulous fruit on the fuller-bodied palate yet there’s a fineness, too, with supple tannins enmeshed in lively acidity. It’s a gorgeous drink. Too young now as it’s still showing off its youthful exuberance. Give this a few more years in the cellar to build more complexity and detail; it's guaranteed to age beautifully for another two or so decades. Drink by 2045."  Jane Faulkner, Halliday Wine Companion - 97 points

"2023 was a perfect vintage in Margaret River, and the dry-grown fruit for this wine was hand-harvested over seven picks, before wild fermentation. This is in its absolute infancy, and while the fragrant oak might be the first guest to the party right now, the fruit is undoubtedly the life of it. Pretty dried rose petals, crushed graphite, rose hip, fennel seed, a pinch of oriental spice and salted raspberries hint at what lies ahead. Tight-grained oak tannins link arms with fine fruit tannins, and well-paced natural acidity hums along with lilting rhythm. At its core, there is a purity of bright fruit. A wine of understated elegance and immense power behind its poise. The slight ocean brine on the finish calls you back, like a sea siren. Don’t rush – give this a few years before opening and you’ll be rewarded. Drink 2026-2045."  Cassandra Charlick, Decanter - 97 points

"The quality of tannins is part of the great experience, suede, refreshing, persistent, but you can see the pedigree of the wine in detail of dark berry fruits, espresso, mocha, chocolate and liquorice then bay leaf, brine and sea spray, salt bush and mahogany; all this delivers so much to the experience in its layers and layers. It sets out at medium weight and glides, an elegance, a confidence in balance and the harmony on hand. That it is generally just outrageously delicious is the wine’s ace in the hole. Nota bene the dark roast coffee/mocha is noted here and lends a little piquant bitterness and gummy elements in the finish. Quality writ large is the mainstay; top flight stuff. Drink 2027-2045."  Mike Bennie, The Wine Front - 96+points

Organic/biodynamic

The combination of firstly organic, and subsequently biodynamic viticulture at Cullen Wines provides the opportunity for the land to exist at its full potential, thereby nurturing vines to produce their best and most individual grapes. Vanya Cullen has pushed the limits of biodynamic practices in every facet of the business and the yield of the estate vineyards has soared.  All Cullen Wines are grown on a certified Biodynamic, Carbon Neutral and naturally powered estate.

Organic Viticulture

Since 1971 when the Cullen Vineyard was planted, chemical intervention was minimal and the family's concern for the environment paramount. In 1998 the change to total organic viticulture was made. Organics is about soil health and Diana and Vanya went intuitively towards healing the soil by putting back what had been taken out. Organic farming promotes biological activity, which converts plant and animal residue into stable humus. This in turn increases the soil's ability to retain moisture and provide a reserve of nutrients. The Cullen vineyards were certified A Grade Organic in 2003. 

Biodynamic Viticulture 

In 2003, whilst attending a Biodynamic Conference, Vanya Cullen decided that Biodynamics would add further to the holistic and natural approach to both vineyard and winemaking. Biodynamics builds on organic farming to make all organic processes work more efficiently and effectively. 

Biodynamic viticulture is a philosophy combining the maintenance of sustainable soil fertility and the recognition of the link between plant growth and the rhythms of the cosmos.  Moon rhythms strongly influence life on earth life. As tides rise and fall in a pulsing rhythm, so does the sap of plants and all other liquids including those within the earth's mantle. Viticultural practices are conducted according to these moon rhythms. The position of the moon in relation to the planets is critical in determining the optimal time to plant. 

In addition, the difference between organic and biodynamic is the use of biodynamic preparations 500 and 501, with 502-508 also being used. Preparation 500 is cow horns filled with cow manure which helps the soil develop humus and attracts earthworms and micro organisms. Preparation 501 is cow horns filled with quartz crystals which aids photosynthesis and the uptake of minerals in the soil. 

In 2004 the Cullen vineyards were certified A Grade Biodynamic.

Vanya Cullen discusses biodynamics

About the winery

In 1948, Dr Kevin John Cullen and his wife Diana Madeline Cullen purchased their property in Wilyabrup, which is in the heart of Margaret River. In early 1965 they started considering other uses for their sheep and cattle farm. They decided to plant lupins, so invited Dr John Gladstones (who had studied lupins in his post-graduate research) to visit their property. Dr Gladstones had also put considerable work and research into the suitability of growing vines in southwestern Australia and, according to Diana, upon seeing their land said "Oh, you're mad growing cattle and sheep, why don't you grow grapes?"

Dr Gladstones described Wilyabrup as being the sweet spot of the Margaret River region, most favourable for growing Cabernet Sauvignon. In 1966 he published his now-famous report which compared the climate and soils of Margaret River to that of Bordeaux. Many regard him as the founder of the Margaret River wine region. 

In 1971 Kevin and Diana Cullen made the decision to plant 18 acres of vines on the land, including their first Cabernet Sauvignon vines. Further plantings were made over the subsequent decades. The mature 28-hectare dry grown vineyard still operates today and the grapes for all the Cullen wines are sourced from here and the adjacent Mangan Vineyard which was planted in 1995.

While Kevin Cullen worked as a doctor to support the business, Diana Cullen supervised and managed the winery and became Chief Winemaker in 1981. Diana made history in 1982 by being the first woman to win a trophy at the Perth Royal Show. Kevin passed away in 1994 and Diana in 2003, and the Cullen flagship wines are now named in their honour; the Kevin John Chardonnay and Diana Madeline Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot. Both Kevin and Diana have been awarded life membership with the Margaret River Wine Industry Association, and in 2003 the WA Wine Industry Association introduced the annual Diana Madeline Cullen Award for Outstanding Contribution by an Individual to the WA Wine Industry in her honour.

In 1983 Diana was joined by daughter Vanya Cullen, who took over the reign as Chief Winemaker in 1989 and was also appointed Managing Director in 1999. With Vanya at the helm, the quality of the wine is paramount and every step taken in the vineyard and in the winemaking is geared to that aim. The quality of Cullen Wines comes in the main from the vineyard - the wines can only be as good as the grapes. To realise the full potential of the vineyard, Vanya has embraced organic and biodynamic viticultural practices and the vineyards were certified A Grade Organic in 2003 and A Grade Biodynamic in 2004. 

The process of making the wine involves handling the fruit as little and as gently as possible. Practices such as hand harvesting, minimal fruit transport, sorting of the fruit before crushing, minimal wine movement, minimal fining for the whites, no fining for the reds and minimal filtration are employed. The wines mostly make themselves, with little or no intervention; which means the use of indigenous yeast, no additions of any kind and minimal oak use and fining.

Vanya Cullen received the "Australian Winemaker of the Year" award from Gourmet Traveller Wine magazine in 2000 and was voted "Woman of the Year" by UK based wine magazine The Drinks Business in 2008, becoming the first Australian to receive the award. Vanya was also awarded Halliday Wine Companion's winemaker of the year in 2020.

Cullen became the first vineyard and winery in Australia to be certified carbon positive, starting the process in 2006. Vanya Cullen is also on the board of the "Days of Change" program, which aims to help Western Australian people and businesses live and operate in a more sustainable way.

2021 marked a half-century for the brand and with it a celebration of the Cullen Wines legacy. "This year we celebrate 50 years of Cullen Wines – 50 years of sustainable wine growing preceded by 65,000 years of Wadandi sustainable land care," says Vanya. "Over that time we've been supported by generous people with a wonderful spirit of camaraderie and warmth of spirit, and we are so grateful."