Cullen Kevin John Chardonnay 2024

The flagship 2001 Kevin John Chardonnay is sourced from old chardonnay vines planted in 1976-1988. The vineyard is planted to the Gin Gin Clone, also known as the Old Wente Clone, and produces tiny yields of the highest quality fruit. By 2001 Cullen had changed to total organic viticultural practices and was well down the path to Organic Certification. 

"Vanya Cullen's style is underplayed elegance, making wines that get better with every. The current release 2001 is a complex young chardonnay, still tight and unassuming, but a wine that will build wonderfully in bottle. In youth it's superbly understated, working together perfectly ripe citrus and melon-fruit, nutty, creamy winemaker input and the light spice of classy oak, with great aplomb. The finish is long and penetrating with a fragrant, slightly toasty aftertaste."  The Penguin Good Australian Wine Guide 2003/2004 

"Bright golden straw with green tinges. On the nose, attractive white flower lined with glances of fresh vanilla, chamomile and almond marzipan. Concentrated backbone of dried pear and fig all framed by clean notes of quinces and white peach. The palate has remarkable phenolic tension at front sliding through to a rich, firm & balance middle palate framed by ripe stone fruits and perfumed Bosc pear, crunch minerality and savory acidity with an elegant soft clean finish. Enjoy now or for up to 20 years."  Cullen Wines

Cullen Wines

Expert reviews

"Absolutely stunning. Complex, tightly wound and intense aromas of lemon peel, flint and crushed river stones with curry leaves, kaffir limes, white orchard fruit and salted nuts. The profound palate balances power and delicacy, supported by persistent, multidimensional acidity and structure. Iconic, made under unprecedented climatic conditions from the hottest, driest and earliest vintage in Margaret River. An excellent, unique and near-perfect chardonnay. One for the ages. Drink or hold. Screw cap."   James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com - 98 points

"It was a hot, dry and early vintage. The earliest on record. But the impact on the wine is immediate and profound. A wine of tremendous power and concentration is evident from the initial engagement on the nose through to a deep and almost endless palate, as it drives forward with tremendous urgency. Notes of brioche and grain-like cereal with a slightly honeycomb factor, with other notes of minerals and slight savouriness. The palate is deeply concentrated with layers of flavour emerging. Captures much of the Kevin John DNA."  Ray Jordan – 98 points

"Always one of our greatest Chardonnays, not just a great Margaret River Chardonnay. Full biodynamics as always, Gin Gin clone from plantings made between 1976 and 1988, largely new oak, we are seeing this wine released in the new lightweight bottles. A straw/lemon hue, this is a very youthful Chardonnay, but it is elegance personified, with energy and focus and the signs of very early complexity. There is a beautifully creamy texture here with fine, citrussy acidity. The nose offers notes of peaches, florals, ginger, hints of nectarine, bergamot and lemon curd. A wine of precision, this is poised and taut, long and lingering, with notes of oatmeal on the palate. Leave it for a couple of years and it will be very special. Then enjoy for a further twelve to fifteen years. Drink: 2025-2037."  Ken Gargett, Wine Pilot - 97 points

"Vintage after vintage, this is an Australian benchmark chardonnay that commemorates Margaret River pioneer Kevin John Cullen. His daughter Vanya – a finalist for Vigneron of the Year, and her team has crafted another wine that celebrates clarity and purity of the fruit and delivers a delightfully seamless drinking experience. From a hot, dry vintage there is plenty of concentration and length but also elegance. A hint of flint, citrus and melon nuances, astutely judged oak. Just delightful."  Winsor Dobbin, Ciao Magazine - 97 points

"The 2024 Kevin John Chardonnay is stunning and expressive delivering a precise core of grapefruit and cantaloupe lifted by a touch of smoky gunflint and well proportioned French oak. Brilliant tension here with zesty acidity supporting impressive layers of finely tuned flavours and gingery oak through to a fine finish of exceptional length. Delicacy and finesse are the keys here to a wine that will build beautifully in bottle. Drink: 2028-2040."  Angus Hughson, Wine Pilot - 96 points

"Bright medium-depth yellow colour; bread dough and fresh pastry aromas at first sniff, then lemon and subtle grapefruit emerge, a trace of fresh picked herbs, all of this translating onto the palate which is delicate and refined, marvellously fresh and vital, trim and yet intense, seemingly low-alcohol and light on its feet, suggesting earlier harvested grapes. A superb chardonnay and a triumph from a tricky season. Drink: 2025-2039."  Huon Hooke, The Real Review - 96 points

"We've been waiting patiently for the Grange release from the stellar '21 vintage and it certainly lives up to the hype. An impenetrable magenta/crimson in the glass, with the telltale aromatic clout and the light V.A. lift of an embryonic Grange clearly evident as you place your nose in the glass. There's an incredible depth of fruit here. Deep blackberry, blackcurrant and plum compote with hints of graphite, coal dust, violets, wood spice, olive tapenade, oak, blackforest cake, pan juices, panforte, Dutch licorice and earth. The tannins – strong yet powdery – provide ample structure to the wine as it finishes long and deep, resonating perfectly. There is no doubt that this will be considered one of the great Grange releases. Drink by 2067." Jane Faulkner, Halliday Wine Companion - 96 points

Organic/biodynamic

The combination of firstly organic, and subsequently biodynamic viticulture at Cullen Wines provides the opportunity for the land to exist at its full potential, thereby nurturing vines to produce their best and most individual grapes. Vanya Cullen has pushed the limits of biodynamic practices in every facet of the business and the yield of the estate vineyards has soared.  All Cullen Wines are grown on a certified Biodynamic, Carbon Neutral and naturally powered estate.

Organic Viticulture

Since 1971 when the Cullen Vineyard was planted, chemical intervention was minimal and the family's concern for the environment paramount. In 1998 the change to total organic viticulture was made. Organics is about soil health and Diana and Vanya went intuitively towards healing the soil by putting back what had been taken out. Organic farming promotes biological activity, which converts plant and animal residue into stable humus. This in turn increases the soil's ability to retain moisture and provide a reserve of nutrients. The Cullen vineyards were certified A Grade Organic in 2003. 

Biodynamic Viticulture 

In 2003, whilst attending a Biodynamic Conference, Vanya Cullen decided that Biodynamics would add further to the holistic and natural approach to both vineyard and winemaking. Biodynamics builds on organic farming to make all organic processes work more efficiently and effectively. 

Biodynamic viticulture is a philosophy combining the maintenance of sustainable soil fertility and the recognition of the link between plant growth and the rhythms of the cosmos.  Moon rhythms strongly influence life on earth life. As tides rise and fall in a pulsing rhythm, so does the sap of plants and all other liquids including those within the earth's mantle. Viticultural practices are conducted according to these moon rhythms. The position of the moon in relation to the planets is critical in determining the optimal time to plant. 

In addition, the difference between organic and biodynamic is the use of biodynamic preparations 500 and 501, with 502-508 also being used. Preparation 500 is cow horns filled with cow manure which helps the soil develop humus and attracts earthworms and micro organisms. Preparation 501 is cow horns filled with quartz crystals which aids photosynthesis and the uptake of minerals in the soil. 

In 2004 the Cullen vineyards were certified A Grade Biodynamic.

Vanya Cullen discusses biodynamics

About the winery

In 1948, Dr Kevin John Cullen and his wife Diana Madeline Cullen purchased their property in Wilyabrup, which is in the heart of Margaret River. In early 1965 they started considering other uses for their sheep and cattle farm. They decided to plant lupins, so invited Dr John Gladstones (who had studied lupins in his post-graduate research) to visit their property. Dr Gladstones had also put considerable work and research into the suitability of growing vines in southwestern Australia and, according to Diana, upon seeing their land said "Oh, you're mad growing cattle and sheep, why don't you grow grapes?"

Dr Gladstones described Wilyabrup as being the sweet spot of the Margaret River region, most favourable for growing Cabernet Sauvignon. In 1966 he published his now-famous report which compared the climate and soils of Margaret River to that of Bordeaux. Many regard him as the founder of the Margaret River wine region. 

In 1971 Kevin and Diana Cullen made the decision to plant 18 acres of vines on the land, including their first Cabernet Sauvignon vines. Further plantings were made over the subsequent decades. The mature 28-hectare dry grown vineyard still operates today and the grapes for all the Cullen wines are sourced from here and the adjacent Mangan Vineyard which was planted in 1995.

While Kevin Cullen worked as a doctor to support the business, Diana Cullen supervised and managed the winery and became Chief Winemaker in 1981. Diana made history in 1982 by being the first woman to win a trophy at the Perth Royal Show. Kevin passed away in 1994 and Diana in 2003, and the Cullen flagship wines are now named in their honour; the Kevin John Chardonnay and Diana Madeline Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot. Both Kevin and Diana have been awarded life membership with the Margaret River Wine Industry Association, and in 2003 the WA Wine Industry Association introduced the annual Diana Madeline Cullen Award for Outstanding Contribution by an Individual to the WA Wine Industry in her honour.

In 1983 Diana was joined by daughter Vanya Cullen, who took over the reign as Chief Winemaker in 1989 and was also appointed Managing Director in 1999. With Vanya at the helm, the quality of the wine is paramount and every step taken in the vineyard and in the winemaking is geared to that aim. The quality of Cullen Wines comes in the main from the vineyard - the wines can only be as good as the grapes. To realise the full potential of the vineyard, Vanya has embraced organic and biodynamic viticultural practices and the vineyards were certified A Grade Organic in 2003 and A Grade Biodynamic in 2004. 

The process of making the wine involves handling the fruit as little and as gently as possible. Practices such as hand harvesting, minimal fruit transport, sorting of the fruit before crushing, minimal wine movement, minimal fining for the whites, no fining for the reds and minimal filtration are employed. The wines mostly make themselves, with little or no intervention; which means the use of indigenous yeast, no additions of any kind and minimal oak use and fining.

Vanya Cullen received the "Australian Winemaker of the Year" award from Gourmet Traveller Wine magazine in 2000 and was voted "Woman of the Year" by UK based wine magazine The Drinks Business in 2008, becoming the first Australian to receive the award. Vanya was also awarded Halliday Wine Companion's winemaker of the year in 2020.

Cullen became the first vineyard and winery in Australia to be certified carbon positive, starting the process in 2006. Vanya Cullen is also on the board of the "Days of Change" program, which aims to help Western Australian people and businesses live and operate in a more sustainable way.

2021 marked a half-century for the brand and with it a celebration of the Cullen Wines legacy. "This year we celebrate 50 years of Cullen Wines – 50 years of sustainable wine growing preceded by 65,000 years of Wadandi sustainable land care," says Vanya. "Over that time we've been supported by generous people with a wonderful spirit of camaraderie and warmth of spirit, and we are so grateful."