Duke's Vineyard Margaret River Chardonnay 2022

Duke's Vineyard was established in 1998 when Duke Ranson purchased a 65ha farm at the foot of the Porongurup Range. He chose to plant  Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, varieties that are beautifully suited to the cool-climate Great Southern region. Ben Cane, who was previously chief winemaker at Cape Mentelle in Margaret River, purchased the vineyard from Duke in 2022. It comes as no surprise that he decided to make use of his expertise and add a Margaret River Chardonnay to the portfolio. The fruit for the inaugral 2022 Margaret River Chardonnay was sourced from the Victory Point Vineyard in Wilyabrup, planted in 2000 to the Gingin, Burgundian 76, 277 and 96 clones. 

"Intense grapefruit, sweet-herb and lemon-balm aromas overlaid by a nutty, peanut brittle trace from oak-maturation. The wine remains delicate, reserved and refined in the mouth, with excellent line and length. Intense, concentrated lemon/citrus fruit. An impressive young chardonnay that will certainly age superbly. A stunner."  Huon Hooke

"Nestled in the hills of Margaret River sits Victory Point Vineyard planted in 2000 by Gary and Jude Berson and home to our first Margaret River Chardonnay. An array of clones (Gingin, Burgundian 76, 277 and 96) are planted on gravelly sandy, clay loams to produce a mineral driven elegant expression of chardonnay; dry grown, hand tended and well loved.

Hand-picked, whole bunch pressed cold, wild yeast barrel fermented in French barriques (228L) and hogsheads (300L) (35% new, balance 2 yrs old), each clone remained separate, this wine sat on lees (yeast solids) for ten months remaining separate before being blended and bottled. This focused, elegant expression shows flint and mineral with great generosity and textural creaminess. Restrained, refined and clearly speaking of its cool climate terroir."  Duke's Vineyard

Expert reviews

"Light-medium yellow and bright in the glass; intense grapefruit, sweet-herb and lemon-balm aromas overlaid by a nutty, peanut brittle trace from oak-maturation. The wine remains delicate, reserved and refined in the mouth, with excellent line and length. Intense, concentrated lemon/citrus fruit. An impressive young chardonnay that will certainly age superbly. A stunner.  Date: Aug 2023; Alcohol: 12.5%; Price: $62.00; Drink: 2023-2034."  Huon Hooke, The Real Review - 96 points

"This is a very fine and elegant style of Chardonnay. It’s certainly tighter than the M2 but it also has power. It’s also a departure for Dukes but not for Cane who has worked with this style before. It’s made from a number of different clones with a chalky minerality taking the palate through to a very long finish. I particularly like the crunchy slightly juicy character which brings life and energy to the palate and complements the lemon curd and brioche flavours. The 10 months in oak, of which 33% was new, is perfectly balanced with the fruit and crisp minerally acidity. Drink: 2023-2033."  Ray Jordan, Wine Pilot - 95 points

The winemakers 

Rob Diletti

Rob Diletti is the winemaking son of Castle Rock Estate founders Angelo and Wendy Diletti. During his formative years Rob worked in the family's vineyard, developing a keen interest in grape-growing. After graduating from Charles Sturt University with a Wine Science degree, Rob gained winemaking experience at Mountadam Wines, Grosset Wines, Plantagenet Wines, Jean Grenier in Alsace, and Alkoomi Wines prior to returning home to Castle Rock Estate.

"Porongurup is splendidly remote (390km from Perth, 40km from Albany), and, while blessed with stunning vineyards, has almost no sizeable wineries. As a result, Diletti has become both the frontman for Castle Rock Estate and the de facto Porongurup region winemaker, crafting wines under contract for various local vineyards, including Duke's and 3 Drops."  Andrew Graham

"Rob Diletti is highly intelligent and modest. He was the recipient of the inaugural Winemaker of the Year Award in my 2015 Wine Companion. His superb palate, sensitive winemaking and countless trophies and gold medals leave no doubt about Diletti's skills."  James Halliday

Since 2012, Rob Diletti has made the wines at Duke’s Vineyard. Duke and Hilde Ranson retired in 2022 and sold the vineyard to Ben Cane and his partner Sarah Date. Ben was previously chief winemaker at Cape Mentelle in Margaret River. Rob Diletti and Ben Cane are now working in partnership to continue making the wines. 

"The quality of Duke’s Vineyard’s wines, made at the Diletti family’s custom-crush facility on the Castle Rock property, never faltered. But to find someone to share the dream meant owning a vineyard and cellar door; a winemaker able to work with Rob Diletti; and grow the brand. In 2021, winemaker Ben Cane and partner Sarah Date began putting the pieces together, Ben working a trial vintage that year at Castle Rock. 

He is a very experienced winemaker who has worked overseas and in Australia at various times as an employee, consultant and co-owner. He is sensitive to the special place and much-loved Duke and Hilde in Porongurup, and is attuned to growing the brand by increasing quality, not quantity. He has moved to organic vineyard management, with biodynamics around the corner. He has also changed pruning to cane, thus allowing greater sunlight and breeze penetration through the canopy. Three clones of each pinot noir and chardonnay will underwrite new plantings of these varieties. 

And so it goes on. Duke left big boots to fill, and I’m confident Ben will do just that."  James Halliday

Ben Cane 

Winery

Duke and Hilde Ranson long held a dream to establish a vineyard in the Porongurup sub-region of Great Southern, so in 1998 they purchased a 65ha farm at the foot of the Porongurup Range. They chose to plant Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon (Duke's favourite) and Shiraz, varieties that are beautifully suited to the cool-climate Great Southern region. The first vines were planted on Duke's 60th birthday in 1999.

The vineyard is a unique site that sits at the feet of the ancient granite Porongurup peaks with warm ripening days and cooler nights tempered with maritime breezes. To the north are sweeping views of the Stirling Ranges. There are currently 10 hectares of vines planted, 4ha of Riesling and 3ha each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz.

Since 2012, the wines have been made by Rob Diletti at Castle Rock Winery, just down the road from Duke's Vineyard at the eastern end of the Porongurups. Rob was James Halliday's inaugural 'Wine Maker of the Year' in 2015. 

Duke and Hilde Ranson retired in 2022 and sold the vineyard to Ben Cane and his partner Sarah Date. Ben was previously chief winemaker at Cape Mentelle in Margaret River. Rob Diletti and Ben Cane are now working in partnership to continue making the wines.

"The quality of Duke’s Vineyard’s wines, made at the Diletti family’s custom-crush facility on the Castle Rock property, never faltered. But to find someone to share the dream meant owning a vineyard and cellar door; a winemaker able to work with Rob Diletti; and grow the brand. In 2021, winemaker Ben Cane and film/ media/special events producer partner Sarah Date began putting the pieces together, Ben working a trial vintage that year at Castle Rock. 

He is a very experienced winemaker who has worked overseas and in Australia at various times as an employee, consultant and co-owner. He is sensitive to the special place and much-loved Duke and Hilde in Porongurup, and is attuned to growing the brand by increasing quality, not quantity. He has moved to organic vineyard management, with biodynamics around the corner. He has also changed pruning to cane, thus allowing greater sunlight and breeze penetration through the canopy. Three clones of each pinot noir and chardonnay will underwrite new plantings of these varieties. 

And so it goes on. Duke left big boots to fill, and I’m confident Ben will do just that."  James Halliday

In Duke's last newsletter he penned this beautifully poignant poem, featuring his beloved dog Cindy, about the changing of the guard:

Old Dogs…New Dogs

There's a new dog on the block and he's young and fit and lean.
He gets on well with Cindy who remains the cellar queen.
His name is Dujac and that's a place of wine.
A winery in France with Burgundy divine. 

His breeding's somewhat vague but Kelpie comes to mind.
With a bit of Border Collie somewhere intertwined.
His job is to watch his master as Ben walks to the fore.
To eventually relieve Cindy at Duke's Vineyard cellar door.

In the meantime, it's all learning with customers in mind.
To look after feline lovers as well as the canine kind.
To play with kids to entertain while parents have a taste.
And when he gets in trouble, to disappear in haste.

It is an age-old story of the old dog and the new.
The young dog chases all the kids and the old dog just a few.
The young dog gets his meal and devours it oh so fast.
The old dog sits and ponders hers to make the pleasure last.

 It's really just history of the passing of the guard.
The logic is so simple, but some dogs make it hard.
Some old dogs are so stubborn, to weaken is a sin.
But just move over old dog, the new dog's movin' in. 

So now it's Ben and Sarah, Duke and Hilde have a spell.
We've changed not just the people, we've changed the dogs as well.
The vineyard carries on regardless with good weather from above.
But the wine that bears the label, will still be made with love.

Duke and Cindy