Flametree SRS Wilyabrup Cabernet Sauvignon 2013

Flametree selects iconic quality fruit from specific vineyards across the region to make the multiple award-winning SRS (Sub Regional Series) range. Fruit for the 2013 vintage was sourced from Mark Joliffe's wonderful Wilyabrup Estate vineyard on Puzey Road in the Wilyabrup sub-region of Margaret River, long regarded as the benchmark sub-region for Cabernet Sauvignon.

"Such a smooth and beautifully textured powerhouse from the Wilyabrup subregion. Perfumed notes of violets and blackberry with some suggestions of sweet dark chocolate. Huge mix of mulberry and blackcurrant on the palate with fine chalky tannins and a decent lick of oak. A wine made with extended cellaring in mind."  Ray Jordan

The Wilyabrup Estate vineyard is a beautiful northeast facing vineyard with soils that are typically very bony on top with gravel/quartz sub-soils underneath. These mature vines cropped at around 5 tonnes per hectare. The clone used hails from old Houghton cuttings. The 2013 vintage is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. 

"The 2013 SRS Cabernet Sauvignon is a classic Wilyabrup Cabernet Sauvignon produced from a fantastic Margaret River vintage. It shows all the perfume and structure that make Wilyabrup Cabernet Sauvignon wines so famous. Lifted blackberries, mulberry, plums, earth and dark chocolate dominate the nose and palate at this early stage. Whilst showing plenty of inky dark fruits, violets and bitter chocolate. The palate also displays wonderful fruit and oak tannin, the result of 16 months oak maturation. A lovely full bodied Cabernet Sauvignon that shows Margaret River Cabernet in all its glory. This vintage will drink beautifully as a young wine, however a wine with this much fruit and extract will also mature wonderfully for the next 10-12 years."  Flametree

Expert reviews

"Stamps its class from the outset. The berried juices flow, the leaves add a layer, the beat of gravelly tannin ensures it's all built on a firm foundation. Tea and dark chocolate notes trill at various points. Bankable quality."  Campbell Mattinson, Halliday Wine Companion - 96 points and Special Value Wine  ★

"Such a smooth and beautifully textured powerhouse from the Wilyabrup subregion. Perfumed notes of violets and blackberry with some suggestions of sweet dark chocolate. Huge mix of mulberry and blackcurrant on the palate with fine chalky tannins and a decent lick of oak. A wine made with extended cellaring in mind."  Ray Jordan, Wine Guide 2016 - 96 points

"From a single vineyard in Wilyabrup. Invariably a pleasure tasting Cabernet from Margaret River. Such a great wine region. Dark chocolate, violets, bramble fruit, baking spices and a subtle aniseed lift. Medium to full bodied, again the dark chocolate and mixed berry flavour, with delightfully rich and minerally black tea tannin, well settled acidity and a powerful tannic finish. Nice to see a local Cabernet that’s not afraid to load in the structure."  Gary Walsh, The Wine Front - 95 points

Awards

Special Value Wine – Halliday Wine Companion  ★ 

Wilyabrup

Wilyabrup Bluff

"Ask any Master of Wine where the world’s best cabernet comes from and I suspect that most will tell you that it’s the left bank of the Gironde River in Bordeaux in France – but ask a parochial Aussie aficionado and I reckon that many will tell you to look for wines from the Wilyabrup sub-region in the Sandgroper’s premier cabernet district. With headline acts like Moss Wood, Cullen, Juniper Estate and Vasse Felix, the Wilyabrup story is as impressive as it is irresistible. Located only about 20 kilometres north of the Margaret River, the area enjoys a Mediterranean climate thanks to the cooling south westerly and westerly breezes. Its coastal proximity means that it avoids the extreme temperatures that can make winemaking more challenging and the ancient gravelly loams, wet winters and dry summers make for perfect conditions for cabernet production.

The Margaret River is rightly regarded as one of Australia’s best cabernet producing regions, but Wilyabrup is the Rock Star sub-region and if you ask me, sets the benchmark for non-Bordeaux cabernet sauvignon."  Travis Schultz, travisschultz.com.au

The text below was taken from an article by Marcus Ellis that appeared in Young Gun of Wine

In 1999, Dr Gladstones published a follow-up paper to his landmark study after the evidence of 30 years of winegrowing was in. His report, which analysed climate and soil data proposed that there were clearly six distinct sub-regions: Wilyabrup, Carbunup, Yallingup, Treeton, Wallcliffe and Karridale (refer map below).

Revisiting that report in 2019, 20 years later, Gladstones analysed further climate and rainfall data to again reaffirm that there was significant merit in legally declaring these subregions, with a note that Karridale would best be separated into north and south zones due to both soil and climate variations. "Now some 40 years of practical experience has very largely borne out the resulting predictions for grape varieties and wine styles," he wrote.

Gladstones noted in his paper that cabernet sauvignon becomes thin and vegetal in too cold a climate and loses "balance and varietal typicity" in one too warm. "Ample experience has now shown that while the whole of the Margaret River region can produce very good cabernet, it is Wilyabrup that most nearly meets the above criteria," he wrote. "More than that, its closest match is to what would be reckoned a great … season in Bordeaux… That was the major premise on which Wilyabrup was specifically selected for the first Margaret River plantings, based on the limited data then available."

Vanya Cullen notes that the consistent weather pattern and the subregion’s protection from the ocean winds that influence the north and the south are major contributes to this suitability. "Wilyabrup is right in the middle of a high and low, and it has that evenness of not being too far in the warmth of the north, or too far south," she says. "And there are the soils that Wilyabrup cabernet are famous for. Cabernet is a difficult variety to get right, and it’s a good place to grow cabernet particularly."

Whether or not Wilyabrup is regarded as better wine country than any other of the sub-regions is a moot point, though. The issue at hand is regional definition, and it’s something that Vanya Cullen believes in very strongly.

As it stands, Wilyabrup can be used on labels, and in the case of Cullen and Moss Wood, where it is proudly displayed, that is a guarantee of origin. But that is a matter of principle, with no legal requirements in place. "It’s the same with organic and biodynamic, because there’s no legislation, people can greenwash with those terms," says Cullen, who takes issue with those that use the terms like 'organic practices' while still using synthetic chemicals, stressing that certification, which is legally defined, is the only assurance. "It’s exactly the same with Wilyabrup. It’s not protected."

That means that while producers can continue to raise the quality perception and value of Wilyabrup wines through the use of the sub-regional name, it also means that other makers are free to bring in fruit from anywhere in Margaret River and still label the wine with the sub-regional moniker. That’s a potentially lucrative position for some producers, especially with blue chip wineries like Cullen and Moss Wood raising the cachet of the name.

For Gladstones, while Wilyabrup is a clear candidate for being accorded its only legally defined status, it is a move that doesn’t detract from the other zones, but rather is the start of an ongoing and very positive process. "Other 'sweet spots' for grape varieties and wine styles are progressively being identified, and more (some not yet thought of) will doubtless be identified in future," he wrote. "All these will need to be able to claim their precise and legally protected origins if the full value of the region’s wines and of its advantages can be realised."

That long-sighted view is one that Cullen agrees with, but for her it’s also a very personal journey. "It’s about honouring the land," she says, "and acknowledging the land. People can make a regional blend if they want to honour the huge region of Margaret River, which is fine, but my wine comes from Wilyabrup, and I want that honoured."

Cliff Royle

Cliff Royle has been making premium wines in the Margaret River region for well over two decades. He came to Flametree Wines in 2009 after twelve years as Chief Winemaker at Voyager Estate. "Winemaker Cliff Royle is regarded by critics as one of the most gifted winemakers of his generation."  Andrew Caillard MW

Royle has a soft spot for Chardonnay. "Chardonnay makes the greatest white wines in the world," he says. "Top White Burgundy and Blanc de Blanc Champagnes are the benchmark to which we can all learn valuable lessons with regard to structure, balance and complexity. Am I trying to make these wines? No. I’m learning how to make Margaret River wines more interesting whilst keeping great examples of these wines in the back of my mind. We get so much raw fruit power in Margaret River, I just think we can look harder at making our wines a little less fruit driven whilst more savoury and complex."

His groundbreaking 2002 Voyager chardonnay was one of the first Margaret River chardonnays using grapes that were picked early. Equally importantly, it was not put through a secondary malolactic fermentation, which had long been the norm in the region and continues to be among some producers. The result was a restrained and long-lived wine. Royle says his change of tactic was influenced by conversations with east coast chardonnay gurus Dave Bicknell (from Oakridge) and Tom Carson (now at Yabby Lake), and by the burgundies he's tasted from the Roulot​ and Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey domaines.

Cliff was awarded Winemaker of the Year by Winestate Magazine in 2003 and was a finalist in the Gourmet Traveller Winemaker of the Year in 2005, to name two of the accolades he has received in his career. In addition, he has been a senior judge at the Royal Melbourne and Perth Wine Shows for a number of years. 

The text below is taken from an article titled 'The Brilliance of Flametree Wines' that appeared in London Drinks Guide 

Compared to some of the pioneering wineries from the Margaret River industry, Flametree is a relatively young player. However, their wines have achieved acclaim well beyond their age. The winery is committed to producing consistently great wines, all of which champion the fruit of the Margaret River region. At the core of their day to day routine is a team of dedicated individuals who are proud of the place and the wines they make. Heading this team is Cliff Royle, the Chief Winemaker and General Manager. Cliff talks about his time producing quality wines, being a loyal employee of Flametree Wines and how he sees the Australian wine culture progressing in the years to come.

Tell us a little bit about yourself

I have had the pleasure of working in the wine industry for most of my working life, after an initial stint in hospitality. I suppose you'd call me a loyal employee, as I've been at Flametree Wines for 12 years. Before that, I was at Voyager Estate for 12 years. My love for wine has been further enhanced by my travels over the years, and my absolute favourites are Barolos and Burgundies. After vintage, I love nothing more than to head up north, find some sunshine, put some beer on ice and go fishing with old schoolmates. At home in Margaret River, I love that wine brings a family together for meals filled with music, great food and lots of laughter.

According to you, what makes a great wine?

Making great wines starts with great fruit, fruit that can then allow the house style to shine. I follow great producers, not great vintages. Almost everyone can make a great wine in an outstanding vintage. However, the best winemakers always find a way to make quality wines in the context of what the vintage throws at them. I enjoy the challenge of lesser vintages in which you have to pull together all your resources as there is nowhere to hide. This is when your ability to manipulate the fruit and bring its positive features to the forefront count, as do years of experience. I believe that great wines must have perfume, elegance and structure, all integrated into perfect harmony. Most of all, my guide for a great wine is the surprise at how quickly the bottle is emptied!

What would be your typical day at work?

I’m very fortunate that I am employed at Flametree, both as a General Manager and Chief Winemaker. As such, my day to day role is quite complex. At the moment, I’m securing fruit for next year, talking to distributors about allocations, getting wines ready for bottling, and working on a spring release. I am also getting repairs and maintenance completed for the change of season and mapping out the next 6-12 months. Sometimes I’ll be in the winery, tasting and doing allocations all day and on others, I’ll be on a Zoom wine dinner in Singapore. The range of tasks and complexities is endless. Checking in and catching up with our small but very talented team on what’s happening in our backyard and abroad is always fun.

What excites you the most about Flametree Wines?

Our brand takes a very youthful approach. We don't get bogged down by traditions or get trapped by a particular winemaking methodology. The preference is to continue evolving while keeping a core philosophy and retaining a set style guide for just a few of our wines; the rest are always up for review. The fortunate thing is that our customers have come to expect and respect this. They come back for the wines they know and love and to try new styles that we are experimenting with. This flexibility gives us a fresh story and a competitive edge.

What do you consider your flagship wine and why?

Our flagship wine would be the Flametree S.R.S. Wallcliffe Chardonnay. The wine is modern in style and pushes the boundaries on minerality and complexity whilst retaining the underlying Margaret River fruit power that has made the region famous. The wine style is respectful of fruit purity, works well with food, and has the potential to age well. This wine has had huge national and international success and has firmly put Margaret River in the top international Chardonnay conversation. We use hand-picked fruit and large format oak with little to no MLF or lees stirring, looking for an ultimate site and clone purity.

Chardonnay is back in a big way and so it should. There are no greater wines than the white wines made from the Chardonnay grape.

What are some wine trends you're expecting to see?

I can't speak for global trends, but in Australia, there is a growing trend towards 'alternate varietals' (i.e. not the usual big players such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Shiraz, Sauvignon Blanc etc) as well as lighter-style reds. As I mentioned previously, some of these big players are also seeing a shift in style; with Chardonnay becoming more refined and Cabernet less heavily oaked and more fruit-forward.

Lastly, what are you drinking right now?

At the moment I’m pretty obsessed with 2016 Barolo’s, 2018/19 Burgundies, 2019 German Rieslings and the 2018 Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon. The latter is the best vintage in my 25 years as a winemaker in the Margaret River region.

About the winery

Established in 2007 by the Towner family, Flametree has quickly become renowned for its award-winning Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon wines; the two hero varietals of Margaret River. Compared to some of the pioneering wineries from the Margaret River industry, Flametree is a relatively young player. However, their wines have achieved acclaim well beyond their age.

Flametree burst onto the Australian wine scene by winning the prestigious Jimmy Watson Trophy for its first ever red wine, the 2007 cabernet sauvignon merlot. Twelve months later they were finalists for the same award. The Flametree core range and the SRS (Sub Regional Series) wines have received the most recognition from reviewers with a plethora of 95+ scores and have had great success on the wine show circuit winning numerous trophies to date. The winery selects iconic quality fruit from specific vineyards across the region to make the multiple award-winning SRS range.

The Flametree name comes from the famous Illawarra Flame Tree and their property features a number of these trees along the driveway, providing a display of bright red flowers and berries.

The winery is committed to producing consistently great wines, all of which champion the fruit of the Margaret River region. When Flametree was established in 2007 it decided not to own any vineyards but to rely solely on contract-grown grapes - an uncommon choice in Margaret River at that time. Each contract vineyard has its own unique terroir with a specific micro-climate and soil type, producing fruit with individual characters and flavours. Flametree sees a tremendous benefit in being able to 'cherry pick' different varieties from within the region and choose sites where they reach their highest potential. 

Cliff Royle was appointed Chief Winemaker in 2009 after serving twelve years in the same role at Voyager Estate. "Although we have at times contemplated buying our own vineyard, we have thus far been happy with this decision," he says. "Margaret River is my winemaking heartland and after 15 vintages I've established a pretty good understanding of what works and what doesn't. This is reflected in my philosophy that if you get the right varieties planted on the right sites you're well on your way to making fantastic wines. Selecting premium parcels of fruit from the diverse geography of the Margaret River region allows me to make complex single varietals and really interesting blends. We generally source our white grape varieties from the mid to southern parts of the region, our shiraz from the south and our cabernet from the north."