Giant Steps Bastard Hill Vineyard Chardonnay 2023

Bastard Hill Vineyard is a celebrated site located in the Upper Yarra Valley in the sub-region of Gladysdale. Bastard Hill is a 31-hectare property with 13-hectares (32 acres) of vines, planted almost exclusively to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. This high-altitude vineyard, ranging in elevation from 300-400m, has an impossibly steep slope of 32 degrees. It requires little imagination to understand why the vineyard was given its name.

Bastard Hill was planted in 1986 by viticultural legend Ray Guerin. Dedicated initially to the production of super-premium sparkling wine, the site was quickly recognized for its potential to produce top quality still wines and Bastard Hill Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines were released in the 1990s. Regarded as one of the great Chardonnay sites in Australia, the vineyard was also historically a source for Hardy’s Eileen Hardy Chardonnay. This vineyard joined the Giant Steps family of Single Vineyards in 2022.

To quote Giant Step's Upper Yarra Vineyard Manager Scott, "Bastard Hill rises from the forest into the clouds; it is imposing and spectacular. It commands respect, demands attention and takes no prisoners. The first time I took a tractor down the long drop, I fastened my seatbelt and hoped I’d be able to stop before I went over the edge and into the abyss."

Location: Gladysdale                
Elevation: 380 metres          
Aspect: North and south facing
Size: 13 hectares                    
Planted: 1986                       
Soil Type: Volcanic loam (red/ferrous)
Chardonnay Clones: I10V1     
Pinot Noir Clones: MV6, D5V12

The following text is taken from an article by Andrew Caillard MW in The Vintage Journal

Eugene Von Guerard’s 1857 painting 'Fern Tree Gully' depicts a glorious and romanticised Australian bush landscape at the foothills of the Dandenong Ranges in Victoria. The soaring Tree Ferns and dense lush forest give a sense of coolness and a shaft of sunlight reveals two lyrebirds almost in silhouette. Von Guerard exaggerated the landscape to create a scene that did not in reality exist. Yet the stylised composition evocatively captured a mood of place. Guerard’s painting could easily depict the scenery around the Upper Yarra Valley and the road leading to Bastard Hill, a vineyard established for a group of investors in 1987 by Ray Guerin, arguably the most impactful and resourceful viticulturist in Australia’s wine history.

It does not need much imagination to understand why the vineyard was given its name. Having harvested grapes on the steep slopes of the Mosel way back in the early 1980s, I know what a bastard-of-a-hill feels like. Walking up and down a 32 degree slope several times a day is achingly challenging work. When observing the Bastard Hill Vineyard from its highest point, one can almost catch the grumbling of vineyard-workers past amongst the pretty song of lyre birds and the gentle breeze.

In previous times the Bastard Hill property, at Gladysville in the Upper Yarra Valley, had been carved out of temperate forest and planted with cherry trees. The steepest parts were used for grazing sheep. The arrival of Domain Chandon in the Yarra Valley and a demand for cool-climate chardonnay and pinot noir for sparkling wine production led to a change in ownership. The 31-hectare Bastard Hill property is regarded as a marginal site, with a long cool growing season, typically 4 or 5 degrees cooler than the valley floor. In some years it has been difficult to ripen the fruit, but in others the results have been spectacular. Under Hardy’s previous ownership, the vineyard was enthusiastically discovered by Tom Newton and Steve Pannell, who secured fruit for releases under the ill-fated Bastard Hill label. The wines were well-received, but they did not take off in the market.

Bastard Hill Vineyard, now 13 hectares and planted primarily with chardonnay and pinot noir (8 rows of cabernet sauvignon), is enjoying a new lease of life under the ownership of Giant Steps. In 2020, Giant Steps was acquired by the enlightened US-based Jackson Family Wines and soon after in 2022 the Bastard Hill Vineyard was purchased from the beleaguered Accolade Wines. This will probably be seen as ‘a deal of the century’ in future years. Many observers believe that Bastard Hill Vineyard is potentially one of the best chardonnay sites in Australia.

Viticulturalist Ashley Wood and Ray Guerin, working as a consultant, have been equipped with the best resources to revive the fortunes of the Bastard Hill Vineyard. A fence line was constructed at the edge of the forest to protect the vines from deer and kangaroos. The creeks were cleared of debris to improve flow and a 17 megalitre dam is being built at a high point to hold water over summer. An Italian-made caterpillar tractor, designed to travel up and down steep slopes, was acquired to improve work-flow and safety in the vineyard. Sustainable farming techniques are also being introduced to improve soil health and compaction. Some marginal vineyard plots have been pulled up to make way for new plantings and better performing clones and rootstocks. The cost of running this vineyard is approximately an extra $10,000 per hectare compared to vineyards on the valley floor. This highlights the challenge and the opportunity of working such a unique and potentially great vineyard site.

The Bastard Hill Vineyard lies over a ridge like a saddle. On the north-northeast facing (and earlier ripening) side, the vineyard slopes down vertiginously towards Hoddles Creek and on the southern side, the vines angle down to the aptly named Wombat Creek. There are a lot of wombats that live in the Dandenong ranges and no fence line can stop them. But they are not nearly as destructive as kangaroos or deer. In addition, a colony of koalas also live in the treelines above the vines giving the place a distinct Australian character.

The friable, red basalt soils are a contrast to the predominant grey clay soils of the lower Yarra Valley. The high altitude (350-400m) and steep slopes also mean greater air circulation and exemplary air and rain drainage. Consequently, the vineyard has never been exposed to frost damage or flooding. Cover crops reduce the risk of erosion and improve nutrient levels in the soil.

Phil Sexton has described the chardonnay from Bastard Hill as being 'the closest thing to Chablis in Australia,' perhaps alluding to the tight linear structure of the wines.  The vineyard is currently entirely planted to the 1969-imported French clone 110V1, which is renowned for its fruit clarity, structural precision and moderate yields; ideal qualities for sparkling wine production. But better vineyard management techniques, the clone’s ability to hold its natural acidity and more consistent results promise to elevate the reputation of the vineyard in future years. Consistent to the times, the vineyard is also planted with the wonderful heirloom MV6 clone, which has a history going back to 1832 and direct provenance to the Clos de Vougeot vineyard in Burgundy. This high-performing clone is well known for its deep colour, intense flavours and juicy acidity. Another pinot clone D5V12, first brought into Australia during the 1960s from Beaujolais, is well known for its reliable yields and late ripening attributes.

The well-credentialed and resourceful Melanie Chester joined Giant Steps as head of winemaking and viticulture in 2021 and has already made an immense impact on future directions. As the company’s general manager, she is charged with taking Giant Steps to the very top of Australia’s fine wine hierarchy. The acquisition of Bastard Hill highlights great ambitions. But more importantly Melanie Chester understands that memory and knowledge are key aspects of making great wine, as much as energy, enthusiasm and skill. Her core team comprising winemaker Michael Latham and viticulturalist Ashley Wood represent an exceptional and enterprising winemaking team. But having access to the wisdom and experience of Ray Guerin and Steve Flamsteed rounds out the edges to make something tangibly farsighted and exciting. In addition, Giant Steps possesses key vineyards across the Yarra including Tarraford (8.5ha/100m), Sexton (30 ha/ 130-210m), Primavera (12 ha/240m) and the Ray Guerin-planted Applejack (12.5 ha/ 180-260).  With almost every variance of elevation, gradient and soil type, winemakers are almost spoilt for choice. As these latest releases prove, Giant Steps is making some of the Australia’s very best cool-climate wines. And the finest are probably yet to come.

Melanie Chester

Winemaker Melanie Chester at work in the Giant Steps winery

Mel Chester didn’t want to be a winemaker, even though she grew up in a wine family. Her great-grandfather started importing American oak to make wine barrels in South Australia in the 1930s: his first customer was Penfolds.

Wine was always on the Chester dining table in Adelaide, being enjoyed and talked about. But, like most teenagers, young Mel rebelled. "Dad was like, you’ll be a winemaker one day," says Chester, smiling. "And I was like, piss off, Dad, you don’t know me."

Then, when she was 17 her father suggested she could earn some cash working in a winery down in McLaren Vale during vintage. "And I was like, righto, but I’m not going to become a winemaker, so back off." She was, of course, hooked from day one. "Loved it. Moved out of home. Didn’t have a driver’s licence. Hitched lifts to work. So much fun."

She studied Viticulture and Oenology at the University of Adelaide, where she was the recipient of both the Wolf Blass Prize for Excellence in Winemaking (2011) and the David Bradley Memorial Prize (2012). It was clear this girl was going to go far. In 2014, Melanie became the youngest ever scholar selected for The Len Evans Tutorial.

In 2015, after three years in a senior role at Seppelt’s Great Western winery in Victoria, the then 26-year-old was offered the role of winemaker-manager at Sutton Grange, a vineyard in the high country south of Bendigo. 

Moving to Sutton Grange presented the "right kind of challenge and change" for Chester, as she could be more hands on at a boutique winery. "Up until that point I had spent a good chunk of my career working with Treasury Wine Estates, which was a fantastic ground base for me in terms of learning and exposure to amazing vineyards and incredible winemakers … I was ready to work in a different sized business structure and really missed being a bit more hands on."

Within months she was named Young Winemaker of the Year by Gourmet Traveller Wine magazine. In 2018, she was named people’s choice at the Young Gun of Wine awards.

In 2021, after six years as Head Winemaker at Sutton Grange, Chester joined Giant Steps as Head of Winemaking and Viticulture. "It’s bittersweet to be moving on, but this is such a great opportunity." In addition to her duties at Giant steps, Melanie is a sought-after wine judge and currently is the Chair of Judges at the prestigious Melbourne Royal Wine Awards, the home of the Jimmy Watson trophy.

The following text is taken from an article by Mark Hedley that appeared in Square Mile

Melanie Chester was born for her job. Her family business was importing barrels, and she realised from a relatively young age that the wine industry was for her.

She studied Viticulture and Oenology at the University of Adelaide, where she was the recipient of both the Wolf Blass Prize for Excellence in Winemaking (2011) and the David Bradley Memorial Prize (2012). It was clear this girl was going to go far.

She began to build up her experience working across a number of estates in Australia spanning Central Victoria, the Grampians, McLaren Vale, and Barossa, as well as a stint at Quinta do Crasto in Portugal’s Douro Valley.

Awards – and award-winning wines – came thick and fast.

In 2015, she was named Young Winemaker of the Year by Gourmet Traveller WINE magazine, and in 2018, Melanie was recognized by Young Gun of Wine as the People’s Choice award.

Her love affair with Giant Steps started long before she became Head of Winemaking and Viticulture in 2021, collecting the wines for her personal cellar for many years.

Now general manager of the prestigious Yarra Valley winery, she talks us through her journey in wine.

What was your first experience of wine?

Wine was always a part of our dinner table at home, but my family business was importing barrels, so my earliest memory of the industry was as a school child, on the docks of the Adelaide Port. We had just brought in a container of barrels from France and I can still remember the toasty and rich oak smell of opening that container.

What was the first wine you tasted which really caught your attention?

I was in my late teens, and my uncle, who was an avid collector, opened some iconic Aussie wines around the family Christmas table. That afternoon I tried a 1992 Giaconda Pinot Noir, a 1992 Mount Mary Quintet and a 1994 Henschke Hill of Grace. These wines I can still remember when I think back on them. They were a lighting strike through my brain and it hasn't rewired itself since.

When did you decide 'I want to make wine!'?

After my first harvest as an intern – I loved the energy of the cellar, the smells, and the transformation.

Where and when was the first wine you made? And was it any good?

I studied at the University of Adelaide and you make a "project" wine in third year. I made a very yucky small-batch white wine. But you have to start somewhere!

What’s the most important lesson you’ve learnt in your career?

Hard work, dedication and not cutting corners are the foundation for making great wine.

What’s your favourite memory from your career so far?

While people would assume it’s winning trophies or travelling to exotic places, for me it’s remembering those days in vintage where it's all just working. We nailed the picking date on something, the juice tastes great, the team are smashing it and the energy is positive, excited and collaborative. Those are the days I do it for.

Which has been your favourite vintage over the last few years – and why?

2022 was my first vintage at Giant Steps so that was a thrill, but the 2023 vintage, cool and mild, has produced some pretty amazing wines of purity. While those vintages are stressful as you're waiting for stuff to ripen, they often deliver incredible quality.

Who is your winemaking hero – and why?

I have a few. Of course, Lalou Bize-Leroy! But closer to home, my mentor and great friend Tom Carson, from Yabby Lake. He’s practical, thoughtful, generous with his time and knowledge, and has a real love of our Aussie wine industry.

If you could only drink one grape for the rest of your life, what would you choose and why?

Pinot noir – it’s the most complex and fascinating variety. I would never get bored as there is so much site discovery and expression to enjoy.

What’s your death-row bottle from your own line-up?

Applejack Pinot Noir.

And from another winemaker?

Ooooooh, very hard – either 1989 Chateau Rayas, 2012 Raveneau Les Clos or a 2015 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Romanee-Saint-Vivant!

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