Giant Steps Circle of Fifths Pinot Noir 2024
Style: Red Wine
Closure: Screwcap
Giant Steps Circle of Fifths Pinot Noir 2024
Warehouse
34 Redland Drive
Vermont VIC 3133
Australia
Critic Score: 96
Alcohol: 13.5%
Size: 750 ml
Drink by: 2035
"All the flashiness of the single-vineyard wines at a more approachable price." James Suckling
Giant Steps is recognized as a global benchmark for cool climate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The winery was established in 1998, one year after founder Phil Sexton arrived in the Yarra Valley in search of ideal sites to produce Chardonnay and Pinot Noir of purity and finesse. The Circle of Fifths range, launched with the 2024 vintage, is blended exclusively from Giant Steps' single vineyard sites; Applejack, Bastard Hill, Sexton, Tarraford, and Primavera. They capture the strengths of the unique sites into one wine, coming together to tell a new story. "Where the Single Vineyard wines are the pure tones of each vineyard, Circle of Fifths is the chord", says Melanie Chester.
"This is complex and well-flavoured but it’s the spread of the finish that sets it apart. It’s an excellent pinot noir. Complex blue, red and black berried/cherried fruit flavours, gentle reductive notes, a general freshness, and a silken-bordering-on-velvety touch to the palate texture. Red cherry and strawberry characters are the main game but it darts in various directions from there, mint and crushed twiggy herb notes in there among it all, along with undergrowth, along with woodsmoke. This wine feels as though it’s itching to release yet more complexities; it has that vibe. Time will be kind." Campbell Mattinson
"The 2024 vintage was a more classic Yarra season, giving us wines with great flavour, bright acidity and balance. At Giant Steps, we hand pick 100% of our fruit and fastidiously hand sorted in the vineyard. Pinot Noir has one of two processing pathways at Giant Steps - either fermented semi carbonic with 100% whole bunch or destemmed and fermented with whole berries. When the fruit arrives at the winery we determine which direction to take the parcel depending on clone, vineyard, stem ripeness and flavour. Our whole bunch batches are fermented warm with minimal mixing for 14 days. The destemmed whole berry parcels are cold soaked for 3 days before we allow them to warm up and start fermentation naturally. All of our cap management is done using gravity drain and returns, allowing for gentle extraction before pressing. Each parcel is the transferred by gravity to French oak Barriques for malolactic fermentation and is kept on those lees for the duration of its maturation. The parcels are blended together in Spring before bottling in December. The 2024 Circle of Fifths blend is 42% whole bunch parcels and 15% new French oak. This wine is bottled by gravity without fining or filtration." Giant Steps
Expert reviews
"Along with the chardonnay, this is an exciting new addition to the Giant Steps range. A blend of all the single-vineyard wines and mainly from the vineyards in the Upper Yarra. 40% whole bunches. Gently brooding with aromas of wild black cherries and raspberries along with some whole-bunch–derived fennel seed spice and a touch of violets. Concentrated, with far more stuffing than the Yarra Pinot. Ripe, suave tannins ensure this will be worth cellaring for at least five to eight years. Drink by 2033." Philip Rich, Halliday Wine Companion – 96 points and Special Value Wine ★
"A squeaky clean wine with pristine red summer berries. Raspberries, strawberries and dragonfruit encased with red jelly awaiting its dollop of cream. It’s animated with fuzzy sage leaf, boisterous sumac and white pepper spice. Some lint like tannins that thread right from start to finish, you’ll be most likely sipping away steadily to really notice their shadowy presence, but they support the charismatic fruit and woodsy herbal chorus very well. This is a celebration but will go the distance too, think of cellaring for 3-6 years further. Drink now, in a couple of years and squirrel away some. This will be snapped up fast. A lovely wine to have with pork gyoza dumplings. Drink: 2025-2031." Shanteh Wale, Wine Pilot - 95 points
"This delicate and perfumed pinot is a blend of equal parts from five single-vineyard bottlings. Aromas of maraschino cherries, crushed stones, hibiscus, violets and flowers. The palate is mid-weighted with tightly wound tannins and bright acidity, giving notes of blackberry bushes, blueberries, red apple skins and spices. Drink or hold. Screw cap." James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com - 95 points
"This is complex and well-flavoured but it’s the spread of the finish that sets it apart. It’s an excellent pinot noir. Complex blue, red and black berried/cherried fruit flavours, gentle reductive notes, a general freshness, and a silken-bordering-on-velvety touch to the palate texture. Red cherry and strawberry characters are the main game but it darts in various directions from there, mint and crushed twiggy herb notes in there among it all, along with undergrowth, along with woodsmoke. This wine feels as though it’s itching to release yet more complexities; it has that vibe. Time will be kind. Drink: 2026 - 2033." Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front - 94+ points
Awards
Special Value Wine – Halliday Wine Companion ★
Single vineyards
Applejack Vineyard (Upper Yarra Valley)
Applejack Vineyard is a special site, located on a dramatic slope in the upper Yarra Valley and is closely planted and fastidiously managed. It was planted by respected viticulturist Ray Guerin in 1997. The basalt based underlying volcanic soil and rock produce a characteristically fine yet extended, spicy and firm palate. The higher altitude results in a cooler and extended growing season, ideally suited to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (3-4 weeks later than central Yarra Valley). This vineyard joined the Giant Steps family of Single Vineyards in 2013.
Location: Gladysdale
Elevation: 320 metres
Aspect: East-facing
Size: 12.5 hectares
Planted: 1997
Soil Type: Grey clay loam
Chardonnay Clones: I10V1
Pinot Noir Clones: Abel, MV6, Pommard, 114, 115, D2V5, D5V15
Bastard Hill Vineyard (Upper Yarra Valley)
Bastard Hill Vineyard is a celebrated site located in the Upper Yarra Valley in the sub-region of Gladysdale. Bastard Hill is a 31-hectare property with 13-hectares (32 acres) of vines, planted almost exclusively to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. This high-altitude vineyard, ranging in elevation from 300-400m, has an impossibly steep slope of 32 degrees. It requires little imagination to understand why the vineyard was given its name.
Bastard Hill was planted in 1986 by viticultural legend Ray Guerin. Dedicated initially to the production of super-premium sparkling wine, the site was quickly recognized for its potential to produce top quality still wines and Bastard Hill Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines were released in the 1990s. Regarded as one of the great Chardonnay sites in Australia, the vineyard was also historically a source for Hardy’s Eileen Hardy Chardonnay. This vineyard joined the Giant Steps family of Single Vineyards in 2022.
To quote Giant Step's Upper Yarra Vineyard Manager Scott, "Bastard Hill rises from the forest into the clouds; it is imposing and spectacular. It commands respect, demands attention and takes no prisoners. The first time I took a tractor down the long drop, I fastened my seatbelt and hoped I’d be able to stop before I went over the edge and into the abyss."
Location: Gladysdale
Elevation: 380 metres
Aspect: North and south facing
Size: 13 hectares
Planted: 1986
Soil Type: Volcanic loam (red/ferrous)
Chardonnay Clones: I10V1
Pinot Noir Clones: MV6, D5V12
Primavera Vineyard (Upper Yarra Valley)
After discovering Yarra Valley wines 25 years ago Lou Primavera planted this elevated vineyard in Hoddles Creek in 2001. We have a long-standing relationship with the Primavera family, having sourced fruit from the vineyard for some years. This small vineyard has Pinot planted on two slopes of the gully right at the start of the Lone Star Creek – with MV6 planted on the north slope and 115 and G-clone on the south slope. This vineyard always produced our most floral, red fruited and fragrant Pinot Noir, with a sweetness and softness.
Location: Woori Yallock, Hoddles Creek
Elevation: 240 metres
Aspect: North and north-east facing
Size: 12 hectares
Planted: 2001
Soil Type: Red clay loam
Pinot Noir Clones: MV6, 115, G8V3
Sexton Vineyard (Lower Yarra Valley)
Located on the steep slopes of the Warramate Ranges, alongside the vineyards of iconic Yarra producers Yarra Yering and Coldstream Hills, the Sexton Vineyard is in one of the most revered pockets of the Valley. Being well up the Range's north-facing slopes, topsoil is thin and root systems have established themselves in shallow gravelly loams above a tough, rocky clay base. Bunch yields set naturally low in this environment, resulting in intensely flavoured fruit with high skin-to-juice ratio.
The clonal selection of Pinot Noir off this site includes the G5V15 clone, which responds well to the warmer conditions and sunlight exposure to produce juicy and plush wines. The Pinot Noir produced from Sexton have a lovely texture, with dark cherries and plums, sweet spice notes and youthful tannins.
The predominant Chardonnay clones are GinGin and Mendoza which produce hens and chickens (large and small grapes on the same bunch), which results in high white tannin and phenolic content to balance the citrus flavours.
Location: Warramate Ranges, Gruyere
Elevation: 130-210 metres
Aspect: North facing
Size: 30 hectares
Planted: 1997
Soil Type: Grey clay loam
Chardonnay Clones: Gingin, Mendoza, 277, 96, 76, 78
Pinot Noir Clones: MV6, G5V15, Abel, POM5, D
Tarraford Vineyard (Lower Yarra Valley)
Located in a protected valley, Tarraford Vineyard has a discreet microclimate that is cooler than neighbouring sites. Although located in a warmer part of the valley, the Chardonnay at Tarraford is planted on the cooler south facing slope and tucked into the central vale of the vineyard. This vineyard produces Chardonnay with high natural acids, expressing itself through its characteristically long palate, fine tight structure and a zesty lemon/grapefruit finish.
Location: Tarrawarra
Elevation: 100 metres
Aspect: North, south and east facing
Size: 8.5 hectares
Planted: 1998
Soil Type: Grey clay loam
Chardonnay Clones: P58, 96, 548
Pinot Noir Clones: MV6, 667, 828
Syrah Clones: RD67 (Red Dog)
Melanie Chester
Winemaker Melanie Chester at work in the Giant Steps winery
Mel Chester didn’t want to be a winemaker, even though she grew up in a wine family. Her great-grandfather started importing American oak to make wine barrels in South Australia in the 1930s: his first customer was Penfolds.
Wine was always on the Chester dining table in Adelaide, being enjoyed and talked about. But, like most teenagers, young Mel rebelled. "Dad was like, you’ll be a winemaker one day," says Chester, smiling. "And I was like, piss off, Dad, you don’t know me."
Then, when she was 17 her father suggested she could earn some cash working in a winery down in McLaren Vale during vintage. "And I was like, righto, but I’m not going to become a winemaker, so back off." She was, of course, hooked from day one. "Loved it. Moved out of home. Didn’t have a driver’s licence. Hitched lifts to work. So much fun."
She studied Viticulture and Oenology at the University of Adelaide, where she was the recipient of both the Wolf Blass Prize for Excellence in Winemaking (2011) and the David Bradley Memorial Prize (2012). It was clear this girl was going to go far. In 2014, Melanie became the youngest ever scholar selected for The Len Evans Tutorial.
In 2015, after three years in a senior role at Seppelt’s Great Western winery in Victoria, the then 26-year-old was offered the role of winemaker-manager at Sutton Grange, a vineyard in the high country south of Bendigo.
Moving to Sutton Grange presented the "right kind of challenge and change" for Chester, as she could be more hands on at a boutique winery. "Up until that point I had spent a good chunk of my career working with Treasury Wine Estates, which was a fantastic ground base for me in terms of learning and exposure to amazing vineyards and incredible winemakers … I was ready to work in a different sized business structure and really missed being a bit more hands on."
Within months she was named Young Winemaker of the Year by Gourmet Traveller Wine magazine. In 2018, she was named people’s choice at the Young Gun of Wine awards.
In 2021, after six years as Head Winemaker at Sutton Grange, Chester joined Giant Steps as Head of Winemaking and Viticulture. "It’s bittersweet to be moving on, but this is such a great opportunity." In addition to her duties at Giant steps, Melanie is a sought-after wine judge and currently is the Chair of Judges at the prestigious Melbourne Royal Wine Awards, the home of the Jimmy Watson trophy.
The following text is taken from an article by Mark Hedley that appeared in Square Mile
Melanie Chester was born for her job. Her family business was importing barrels, and she realised from a relatively young age that the wine industry was for her.
She studied Viticulture and Oenology at the University of Adelaide, where she was the recipient of both the Wolf Blass Prize for Excellence in Winemaking (2011) and the David Bradley Memorial Prize (2012). It was clear this girl was going to go far.
She began to build up her experience working across a number of estates in Australia spanning Central Victoria, the Grampians, McLaren Vale, and Barossa, as well as a stint at Quinta do Crasto in Portugal’s Douro Valley.
Awards – and award-winning wines – came thick and fast.
In 2015, she was named Young Winemaker of the Year by Gourmet Traveller WINE magazine, and in 2018, Melanie was recognized by Young Gun of Wine as the People’s Choice award.
Her love affair with Giant Steps started long before she became Head of Winemaking and Viticulture in 2021, collecting the wines for her personal cellar for many years.
Now general manager of the prestigious Yarra Valley winery, she talks us through her journey in wine.
What was your first experience of wine?
Wine was always a part of our dinner table at home, but my family business was importing barrels, so my earliest memory of the industry was as a school child, on the docks of the Adelaide Port. We had just brought in a container of barrels from France and I can still remember the toasty and rich oak smell of opening that container.
What was the first wine you tasted which really caught your attention?
I was in my late teens, and my uncle, who was an avid collector, opened some iconic Aussie wines around the family Christmas table. That afternoon I tried a 1992 Giaconda Pinot Noir, a 1992 Mount Mary Quintet and a 1994 Henschke Hill of Grace. These wines I can still remember when I think back on them. They were a lighting strike through my brain and it hasn't rewired itself since.
When did you decide 'I want to make wine!'?
After my first harvest as an intern – I loved the energy of the cellar, the smells, and the transformation.
Where and when was the first wine you made? And was it any good?
I studied at the University of Adelaide and you make a "project" wine in third year. I made a very yucky small-batch white wine. But you have to start somewhere!
What’s the most important lesson you’ve learnt in your career?
Hard work, dedication and not cutting corners are the foundation for making great wine.
What’s your favourite memory from your career so far?
While people would assume it’s winning trophies or travelling to exotic places, for me it’s remembering those days in vintage where it's all just working. We nailed the picking date on something, the juice tastes great, the team are smashing it and the energy is positive, excited and collaborative. Those are the days I do it for.
Which has been your favourite vintage over the last few years – and why?
2022 was my first vintage at Giant Steps so that was a thrill, but the 2023 vintage, cool and mild, has produced some pretty amazing wines of purity. While those vintages are stressful as you're waiting for stuff to ripen, they often deliver incredible quality.
Who is your winemaking hero – and why?
I have a few. Of course, Lalou Bize-Leroy! But closer to home, my mentor and great friend Tom Carson, from Yabby Lake. He’s practical, thoughtful, generous with his time and knowledge, and has a real love of our Aussie wine industry.
If you could only drink one grape for the rest of your life, what would you choose and why?
Pinot noir – it’s the most complex and fascinating variety. I would never get bored as there is so much site discovery and expression to enjoy.
What’s your death-row bottle from your own line-up?
Applejack Pinot Noir.
And from another winemaker?
Ooooooh, very hard – either 1989 Chateau Rayas, 2012 Raveneau Les Clos or a 2015 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Romanee-Saint-Vivant!
About the winery
In 1997 Phil Sexton arrived in the Yarra Valley in search of ideal sites to produce Chardonnay and Pinot Noir of purity and finesse. He was looking for sites with altitude, aged soils, slopes of exposure, regular rainfall and cool to cold nighttime temperatures and a gentle breeze off the protecting mountain ranges. The Giant Steps winery was established one year later in 1998.
The focus is on the production of high-quality, single-vineyard wines. The Giant Steps Single Vineyard range is produced from the most site-expressive fruit off the best vineyards in great years. Each single vineyard wine tells a story about the vineyard, vintage and variety. Production of these wines is very limited with some vineyards producing as little as 200 cases.
The single vineyards comprise the Sexton Vineyard in the Lower Yarra and the Applejack and Bastard Hill Vineyards in the Upper Yarra (both owned by Giant Steps), the Tarraford Vineyard in the Lower Yarra under long-term lease, the Primavera Vineyard in the Upper Yarra under long-term supervised contract and, up until the 2023 vintage, the Wombat Creek Vineyard owned by Hand Picked Wines. In addition, Giant Steps produces a Yarra Valley range of wines made from handpicked fruit from their estate vineyards. They are highly expressive wines, true to the regional characteristics of the Yarra Valley.
The Giant Steps wines have received global acclaim and are now recognized as a global benchmark for cool climate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Since 2003 Giant Steps wines have been awarded 34 trophies and over 100 gold medals at major international and domestic wine shows and has been named one of the Top 100 Wineries in the World by US Wine & Spirits Magazine for each of the last six years.
Giant Step's success is due in no small part to Steve Flamsteed, Chief Winemaker since 2003. Steve had previously worked for Leeuwin Estate (1999 – 2002) and the Hardy Wine Company at their Yarra Burn Winery in the Yarra Valley (2002 – 2003). Steve was named Gourmet Traveller Wine 'Winemaker of the Year' in 2016. "Steve Flamsteed is a man of many talents with a finely tuned palate, an instinctive flair for winemaking and fastidious attention to detail. This shows particularly in the stunning single-vineyard chardonnays and pinots of Giant Steps: distinctive wines that reflect their sites and glow with impeccable finesse." Peter Forrestal, chairman of judges, Gourmet Traveller Wine Winemaker of the Year
Melanie Chester joined Giant Steps as Head of Winemaking and Viticulture in 2021. She came to Giant Steps from Sutton Grange Winery in Central Victoria, where she was Head Winemaker. In 2014, Melanie became the youngest ever scholar selected for The Len Evans Tutorial. In 2015, she was named Young Winemaker of the Year by Gourmet Traveller Wine magazine, and in 2018, Melanie was recognized by Young Gun of Wine as the People's Choice award winner for favourite winemaker.
Giant Steps was acquired by the Jackson Family in 2020. The Jackson Family own a vast stable of wineries in California (Napa Valley, Sonoma County, Mendocino County, Monterey County, Santa Barbara and Oregon), Australia (Yarra Valley and McLaren Vale), Chile, France, Italy and South Africa.
Victoria
Victoria is home to more than 800 wineries across 21 wine regions. The regions are Alpine Valley, Beechworth, Bendigo, Geelong, Gippsland, Glenrowan, Goulburn Valley, Grampians, Heathcote, Henty, King Valley, Macedon Ranges, Mornington Peninsula, Murray Darling, Pyrenees, Rutherglen, Strathbogie Ranges, Sunbury, Swan Hill, Upper Goulburn and Yarra Valley.
Victoria's first vines were planted at Yering in the Yarra Valley in 1838. By 1868 over 3,000 acres had been planted in Victoria, establishing Victoria as the premier wine State of the day. Today, the original vineyards planted at Best's Wines are among the oldest and rarest pre-phylloxera plantings in the world.
Victoria's climate varies from hot and dry in the north to cool in the south and each wine region specialises in different varietals. For example, Rutherglen in the north is famous for its opulent Muscats and Topaque and bold reds, while the many cooler climate regions near Melbourne produce world class Chardonnay and pinot Noir. Victoria is truly a wine lover's playground.