Giant Steps Coal River Valley Pinot Noir 2023
Style: Red Wine
Closure: Screwcap
Giant Steps Coal River Valley Pinot Noir 2023
Camberwell
Burke Road
Camberwell VIC 3124
Australia
Producer: Giant Steps
Country: Australia
Region: Tasmania
Vintage: 2023
Critic Score: 96
Alcohol: 13.5%
Size: 750 ml
Drink by: 2033
Giant Steps have ventured to Coal River in Tasmania, almost as far south (and as cold) as you can go in Australia, to make this Pinot Noir. Despite the cool temperatures, the sunlight hours are long and intense, resulting in a powerful Pinot Noir of amazing density and concentration. Previous vintages of this wine were labelled 'Fatal Shore', after a historical novel by Robert Hughes that delves into the dark history of Tasmania's colonisation.
"With its aromas dark fruits, sarsaparilla, violets and bay leaf, this is the big personality in the Giant Step's pinot range! Equally flamboyant on the palate, which is richly fruited and balanced with ripe, muscular tannins ensuring this will be long lived, too." Philip Rich
Fruit for the 2023 Coal River Valley Pinot Noir comes from the Nocton vineyard and is farmed by Giant Step's grower partners in the Valley. The grapes are picked and shipped overnight to the Giant Steps winery in Healesville to be processed the next day. The Nocton Vineyard is located on a northeast-facing slope that is planted to three clones - MV6, D5V12 and G8V3.
"Handpicked, straight into a refrigerated container parked on the vineyard. The fruit is then immediately driven to Devonport and sailed across Bass Strait to arrive at the winery in Healesville the following morning. Fruit was destemmed and cold soaked for three – four days in open oak vats and open stainless-steel fermenters. The MV6 (from the rockiest soils at the top of the hill) was fermented as whole bunches in an oak fermenter. Both parcels were matured in French oak – 25% new, 75% seasoned – for eight months in 225L barriques D&J, Vicard and Taransaud. Bottled by gravity. No fining. No filtration." Giant Steps
Expert reviews
"Medium deep crimson. Lifted black cherry aromas with negroni/ chinotto / marzipan notes. Richly concentrated and pure-fruited pinot noir with intense black cherry, strawberry fruits, some negroni-like flavours, chalky/ al dente textures, underlying vanilla, grilled nut, saline notes and fresh long juicy acidity. Finishes long and crispy. Beautifully made wine with lovely density and volume. Drink now – 2030. Drink now – 2028." Andrew Caillard MW, The Vintage Journal - 96 points
"From a dry vintage with plenty of sunlight on this eastern facing slope. Black cherry, bramble and boysenberry. Wood Ear mushroom, hawthorn and thistle. Pomegranate molasses and olive skin. Prune plums and black fig. Grainy tannins and crunchy acidity, there is good mid palate weight and plenty of length. A hint of black pepper spice with star anise and allspice. Drink now and will cellar 5 years on. A wonderful wine for blueberry cheesecake or a crumbly cheddar and quince paste." Shanteh Wale, Winepilot - 95 Points
"It’s been the dream launch for this year’s release of the Giant Steps single vineyard range, with various awards and accolades won along the way. This Coal River Valley expression is from the Nocton vineyard, planted in 1999. There’s a flashiness to the fruit, the oak and also – if this is possible – the tannin here. Every component just seems to spread and run like atoms in a cartoon. It’s a foresty wine with smoky oak, nail polish, bush spices and purple flower characters on exuberant show. There’s some volume to the fruit in this wine, and a volume to the tannin too, though there’s no hardness or excessive dryness. Wild in a controlled way, you’d call it. It’s also expansive, and that’s what makes the quality feel so high. Drink: 2025 - 2031+." Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front - 95 points
"From the Nocton vineyard in the Coal River Valley. Hand picked into a refrigerated container by 10.30am to make the boat to the mainland; 20% whole bunches, 35% new barriques. A deep crimson purple. With its aromas dark fruits, sarsaparilla, violets and bay leaf, this is the big personality in the Giant Step's pinot range! Equally flamboyant on the palate, which is richly fruited and balanced with ripe, muscular tannins ensuring this will be long lived, too. Drink by 2032." Philip Rich, Halliday Wine Companion - 95 points
Awards
Gold Medal - 2024 Royal Queensland Wine Awards
Coal river vineyard
Nocton Vineyard (Coal River Valley)
The Coal River Valley lies over the Meehan Range East of Hobart and rolls down to the Southern Ocean; remote and wild are the images conjured up when visiting this pristine agrarian region, first farmed in the early 1800s. Our Pinot Noir is farmed by our grower partners in the Coal River Valley and made in our winery in Healesville.
In our obsession with Single Vineyard Pinot Noirs from great Pinot-growing areas around the world, we have gone almost as far south (and as cold) as you can go in this country. Despite the cool temperatures, the sunlight hours are long and intense and we are intrigued by the depth of palate and colour that is possible from this landscape. While it is made with the Giant Steps' gentle winemaking approach, the result is clearly a world apart in terroir. The Pinot Noir from the Nocton vineyard has amazing density and texture, with powerful weight and concentration.
Location: Meehan Range
Aspect: North-east facing
Size: 34 hectares
Planted: 1999
Soil Type: Calcareous and Triassic sandstone
Pinot Noir Clones: MV6, D5V12, G8V3
Melanie Chester
Winemaker Melanie Chester at work in the Giant Steps winery
Mel Chester didn’t want to be a winemaker, even though she grew up in a wine family. Her great-grandfather started importing American oak to make wine barrels in South Australia in the 1930s: his first customer was Penfolds.
Wine was always on the Chester dining table in Adelaide, being enjoyed and talked about. But, like most teenagers, young Mel rebelled. "Dad was like, you’ll be a winemaker one day," says Chester, smiling. "And I was like, piss off, Dad, you don’t know me."
Then, when she was 17 her father suggested she could earn some cash working in a winery down in McLaren Vale during vintage. "And I was like, righto, but I’m not going to become a winemaker, so back off." She was, of course, hooked from day one. "Loved it. Moved out of home. Didn’t have a driver’s licence. Hitched lifts to work. So much fun."
She studied Viticulture and Oenology at the University of Adelaide, where she was the recipient of both the Wolf Blass Prize for Excellence in Winemaking (2011) and the David Bradley Memorial Prize (2012). It was clear this girl was going to go far. In 2014, Melanie became the youngest ever scholar selected for The Len Evans Tutorial.
In 2015, after three years in a senior role at Seppelt’s Great Western winery in Victoria, the then 26-year-old was offered the role of winemaker-manager at Sutton Grange, a vineyard in the high country south of Bendigo.
Moving to Sutton Grange presented the "right kind of challenge and change" for Chester, as she could be more hands on at a boutique winery. "Up until that point I had spent a good chunk of my career working with Treasury Wine Estates, which was a fantastic ground base for me in terms of learning and exposure to amazing vineyards and incredible winemakers … I was ready to work in a different sized business structure and really missed being a bit more hands on."
Within months she was named Young Winemaker of the Year by Gourmet Traveller Wine magazine. In 2018, she was named people’s choice at the Young Gun of Wine awards.
In 2021, after six years as Head Winemaker at Sutton Grange, Chester joined Giant Steps as Head of Winemaking and Viticulture. "It’s bittersweet to be moving on, but this is such a great opportunity." In addition to her duties at Giant steps, Melanie is a sought-after wine judge and currently is the Chair of Judges at the prestigious Melbourne Royal Wine Awards, the home of the Jimmy Watson trophy.
The following text is taken from an article by Mark Hedley that appeared in Square Mile
Melanie Chester was born for her job. Her family business was importing barrels, and she realised from a relatively young age that the wine industry was for her.
She studied Viticulture and Oenology at the University of Adelaide, where she was the recipient of both the Wolf Blass Prize for Excellence in Winemaking (2011) and the David Bradley Memorial Prize (2012). It was clear this girl was going to go far.
She began to build up her experience working across a number of estates in Australia spanning Central Victoria, the Grampians, McLaren Vale, and Barossa, as well as a stint at Quinta do Crasto in Portugal’s Douro Valley.
Awards – and award-winning wines – came thick and fast.
In 2015, she was named Young Winemaker of the Year by Gourmet Traveller WINE magazine, and in 2018, Melanie was recognized by Young Gun of Wine as the People’s Choice award.
Her love affair with Giant Steps started long before she became Head of Winemaking and Viticulture in 2021, collecting the wines for her personal cellar for many years.
Now general manager of the prestigious Yarra Valley winery, she talks us through her journey in wine.
What was your first experience of wine?
Wine was always a part of our dinner table at home, but my family business was importing barrels, so my earliest memory of the industry was as a school child, on the docks of the Adelaide Port. We had just brought in a container of barrels from France and I can still remember the toasty and rich oak smell of opening that container.
What was the first wine you tasted which really caught your attention?
I was in my late teens, and my uncle, who was an avid collector, opened some iconic Aussie wines around the family Christmas table. That afternoon I tried a 1992 Giaconda Pinot Noir, a 1992 Mount Mary Quintet and a 1994 Henschke Hill of Grace. These wines I can still remember when I think back on them. They were a lighting strike through my brain and it hasn't rewired itself since.
When did you decide 'I want to make wine!'?
After my first harvest as an intern – I loved the energy of the cellar, the smells, and the transformation.
Where and when was the first wine you made? And was it any good?
I studied at the University of Adelaide and you make a "project" wine in third year. I made a very yucky small-batch white wine. But you have to start somewhere!
What’s the most important lesson you’ve learnt in your career?
Hard work, dedication and not cutting corners are the foundation for making great wine.
What’s your favourite memory from your career so far?
While people would assume it’s winning trophies or travelling to exotic places, for me it’s remembering those days in vintage where it's all just working. We nailed the picking date on something, the juice tastes great, the team are smashing it and the energy is positive, excited and collaborative. Those are the days I do it for.
Which has been your favourite vintage over the last few years – and why?
2022 was my first vintage at Giant Steps so that was a thrill, but the 2023 vintage, cool and mild, has produced some pretty amazing wines of purity. While those vintages are stressful as you're waiting for stuff to ripen, they often deliver incredible quality.
Who is your winemaking hero – and why?
I have a few. Of course, Lalou Bize-Leroy! But closer to home, my mentor and great friend Tom Carson, from Yabby Lake. He’s practical, thoughtful, generous with his time and knowledge, and has a real love of our Aussie wine industry.
If you could only drink one grape for the rest of your life, what would you choose and why?
Pinot noir – it’s the most complex and fascinating variety. I would never get bored as there is so much site discovery and expression to enjoy.
What’s your death-row bottle from your own line-up?
Applejack Pinot Noir.
And from another winemaker?
Ooooooh, very hard – either 1989 Chateau Rayas, 2012 Raveneau Les Clos or a 2015 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Romanee-Saint-Vivant!
About the winery
In 1997 Phil Sexton arrived in the Yarra Valley in search of ideal sites to produce Chardonnay and Pinot Noir of purity and finesse. He was looking for sites with altitude, aged soils, slopes of exposure, regular rainfall and cool to cold nighttime temperatures and a gentle breeze off the protecting mountain ranges. The Giant Steps winery was established one year later in 1998.
The focus is on the production of high-quality, single-vineyard wines. The Giant Steps Single Vineyard range is produced from the most site-expressive fruit off the best vineyards in great years. Each single vineyard wine tells a story about the vineyard, vintage and variety. Production of these wines is very limited with some vineyards producing as little as 200 cases.
The single vineyards comprise the Sexton Vineyard in the Lower Yarra and the Applejack Vineyard in the Upper Yarra (both owned by Giant Steps), the Tarraford Vineyard in the Lower Yarra under long-term lease, the Primavera Vineyard in the Upper Yarra under long-term supervised contract and the Wombat Creek Vineyard owned by Hand Picked Wines. In addition, Giant Steps produce a Yarra Valley range of wines made from handpicked fruit from their estate vineyards. They are highly expressive wines, true to the regional characteristics of the Yarra Valley.
The Giant Steps wines have received global acclaim and are now recognized as a global benchmark for cool climate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Since 2003 Giant Steps wines have been awarded 34 trophies and over 100 gold medals at major international and domestic wine shows and has been named one of the Top 100 Wineries in the World by US Wine & Spirits Magazine for each of the last six years.
Giant Step's success is due in no small part to Steve Flamsteed, Chief Winemaker since 2003. Steve had previously worked for Leeuwin Estate (1999 – 2002) and the Hardy Wine Company at their Yarra Burn Winery in the Yarra Valley (2002 – 2003). Steve was named Gourmet Traveller Wine 'Winemaker of the Year' in 2016. "Steve Flamsteed is a man of many talents with a finely tuned palate, an instinctive flair for winemaking and fastidious attention to detail. This shows particularly in the stunning single-vineyard chardonnays and pinots of Giant Steps: distinctive wines that reflect their sites and glow with impeccable finesse." Peter Forrestal, chairman of judges, Gourmet Traveller Wine Winemaker of the Year
Melanie Chester joined Giant Steps as Head of Winemaking and Viticulture in 2021. She came to Giant Steps from Sutton Grange Winery in Central Victoria, where she was Head Winemaker. In 2014, Melanie became the youngest ever scholar selected for The Len Evans Tutorial. In 2015, she was named Young Winemaker of the Year by Gourmet Traveller Wine magazine, and in 2018, Melanie was recognized by Young Gun of Wine as the People's Choice award winner for favourite winemaker.
Giant Steps was acquired by the Jackson Family in 2020. The Jackson Family own a vast stable of wineries in California (Napa Valley, Sonoma County, Mendocino County, Monterey County, Santa Barbara and Oregon), Australia (Yarra Valley and McLaren Vale), Chile, France, Italy and South Africa.
Tasmania
Tasmania is a small island located below mainland Australia. It produces less than 1% of Australia’s wine but enjoys a global reputation as a leading producer of premium cool climate wines. It is prized for its top-class sparkling wine, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling.
Tasmania is home to more than 230 wineries across 7 wine regions*. The reigions Coal River Valley, East Coast, Pipers River and Tamar Valley produce around 90% of Tasmania's wine, while the other three regions Derwent Valley, Huon Valley and North West produce the remaining 10%. * Please note these 7 wine areas are considered here to be subregions of Tasmania to aid site navigation.
Tasmania is the coldest wine State in Australia. Its climate is temperate, with a distinct maritime influence from the Tasman Sea to the east, Bass Strait to the north and the Indian Ocean to the west. Summer days are temperate while winter sees some of the coldest temperatures in Australia. It's unique climate and soils combine to create ideal growing conditions for cool-climate grape varieties.