Giovanni Rosso Del Comune di Serralunga d'Alba, Barolo DOCG 2013

"One of my top ten Piedmont producers. I have a list. I unfold it, look at it, read it aloud a few times, and tuck it safely away."  Gary Walsh

Azienda Agricola Giovanni Rosso is a family-owned estate located in the commune of Serralunga d'Alba, which marks the eastern border of the Barolo zone. The family has farmed vineyards in the area since the 1890s, however, they have only released wines under the 'Giovanni Rosso' label since 1995. Winemaker Davide Rosso, Giovanni's son, aims to make wine that accurately reflects the terroir, in this case from the many slopes they own in Serralunga d'Alba - in particular from the very special crus of Vigna Rionda, Cerretta and Serra.  

"It’s fair to say, I love me Nebbiolo. And I particularly love Serralunga. I seem to rate this wine the same year in, year out, which says to me that the attention to detail in the vineyard and winery makes the quality, and the vintage provides the character. Or something like that. Ripe raspberry and dark cherry, almond meal, clean earth, spices. Medium to full bodied, concentrated dark red fruits, firm earthy tannin, intensity, clean acidity, liquorice, and a slurry of shale-like tannin on a long finish. Classic Serralunga. It has a density and tightly packed nature that will require a little extra cellaring to let it unfurl, but a very convincing release from this wonderful producer."  Gary Walsh

The Giovanni Rosso Serralunga d'Alba is a village blend of nebbiolo from six different crus (vineyards) planted from 1984-1996: Broglio, Meriame and Damiano in central Serralunga and Baudana, Costa Bella and Sorano in the north. The crus have different sun exposure, altitude and soil characteristics, and are harvested and fermented separately before blending. The grapes are harvested by hand, destemmed and softly crushed, and the juice is fermented in contact with the skins in concrete tanks for about 15 days prior to maturation in large 500L Fontainebleau Forest oak barrels for 18 to 36 months (depending on the vintage and the vineyard).

 Davide Rosso discusses his Giovanni Rosso Del Comune di Serralunga d'Alba  

Expert reviews

"It’s fair to say, I love me Nebbiolo. And I particularly love Serralunga. I seem to rate this wine the same year in, year out, which says to me that the attention to detail in the vineyard and winery makes the quality, and the vintage provides the character. Or something like that. Ripe raspberry and dark cherry, almond meal, clean earth, spices. Medium to full bodied, concentrated dark red fruits, firm earthy tannin, intensity, clean acidity, liquorice, and a slurry of shale-like tannin on a long finish. Classic Serralunga. It has a density and tightly packed nature that will require a little extra cellaring to let it unfurl, but a very convincing release from this wonderful producer. Drink: 2021 - 2035+."  Gary Walsh, The Wine Front - 95 points

"Packed with sweet strawberry and cherry flavors, this red also deals leather, tobacco and tar notes from a well-structured deck. Tightens up considerably on the finish, a good sign for future development. Best from 2020 through 2038. Best from 2020 through 2038."  Bruce Sanderson, Wine Spectator – 93 points

"A village blend of Serralunga Nebbiolo from seven vineyards (Damiano, Brolio, Costa Bella, Sorano, Sori di Baudana, Cerretta Piane, Meriame). Cask sample. Impressively dark ruby. Deep nose of red fruit with a fine oatmeal note. Opulent palate with huge depth. Really ripe and long and with amazing concentration absorbing up the muscular tannins. Monolithic in its constitution with the acidity revealing itself only on the finish. Rich and multi-layered. Drink 2020-2040."  Walter Speller, www.jancisrobinson.com - 17/20 points

Piedmont Nebbiolo

The Piedmont wine region is located in the north-west corner of Italy. The name Piemonte means "at the foot of the mountains", the mountains in this case being the Alps. Piedmont is just Italy’s seventh largest wine region, but what it lacks in quantity it makes up for in quality.

Piedmont is famous for its Nebbiolo wines. Nebbiolo, the most exalted wine variety of Piedmont, gets its name from the Italian word for 'fog', nebbia. During harvest, which generally takes place late in October, a deep, intense fog sets into the Langhe region where the Nebbiolo vineyards are located. The Nebbiolo heartland is the tiny Barolo production zone, a cluster of fog-prone hills around the village of the same name.

Nebbiolo is early-budding, but also late-ripening. It needs good weather and lots of sunlight to achieve full ripeness, which is why the best vineyards for growing Nebbiolo are located on hillsides that are exposed to plenty of sunlight. Hence the suitability of the slopes of the Langhe hills near the town of Alba. Nebbiolo is only planted on the hills at an altitude above 250m, as fog hangs over lower vineyards for large parts of the day and there is no chance of making decent wine from this late-ripening variety if it is not exposed to maximum sunshine. The lower vineyards are generally planted with Barbera or Dolcetto.

Soil types also play a crucial role. Nebbiolo thrives on calcareous marl, a lime-rich mudstone that is found on the right bank of the Tanaro River, home to the famous appellations Barolo and Barbaresco. Nebbiolo grapes grown on other soil types tend to make wines that are not as aromatic and elegant.

Nebbiolo produces a full-bodied wine with high levels of acidity and tannin, particularly when it is young - at odds with its light colour. It also has great aging potential – particularly the Barbaresco and Barolo wines that garner the highest price tags.

The two highest classifications of wines produced from Nebbiolo in Piedmont are the DOCG denomination Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin) and the DOC denomination Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (Denomination of Controlled Origin).

In total, there are seventeen DOCG and DOC wines made in Piedmont. The five applicable to Nebbiolo are Barolo DOCG, Barbaresco DOCG and Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC (which must be made from 100% Nebbiolo) and Roero DOCG and Langhe Nebbiolo DOC (which must be made from at least 85% Nebbiolo).

 DOCG and DOC Nebbiolo production zones in Piedmont

Barolo DOCG is perhaps the most famous Nebbiolo wine. Its name derives from the small town in the heart of the Barolo production zone, but it is produced in eleven communes around the larger hillside towns in the area. Barolo DOCG wines must be made from 100% Nebbiolo and must age in oak for at least 18 months with a total age time of 38 months before release. Barolo Riserva DOCG must age in oak for at least 18 months with a total age time of 62 months before being released.

Barbaresco DOCG is often described as more elegant than the more powerful Barolo, the 'queen' to Barolo’s 'king'. Barbaresco DOCG wines must be made from 100% Nebbiolo. The production zone is tiny, a third of the size of Barolo, and has less stringent regulations. Barbaresco DOCG wines must age in oak for at least 9 months with a total age time of 26 months before release. Barbaresco Riserva DOCG must age in oak for at least 9 months with a total age time of 50 months before being released.

Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC is produced between Barolo and Barbaresco. Near the two zones the wines are full-bodied and age very well. Further away, they’re delicate and best drunk young. This wine can also come from grapes from Barola or Barbaresco not quite up to heavenly standards, such as grapes from new vineyards in the famous hills or from less exalted vineyards. Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC wines must be made from 100% Nebbiolo and must age for at least 12 months before release. Nebbiolo d’Alba Superiore DOC wines must age in oak for at least 6 months with a total age time of 18 months before being released.

Roero DOCG is a little known zone just north of Barolo within the Langhe. Roero DOCG wines must be at least 95% Nebbiolo and must age in oak for at least 6 months with a total age time of 20 months before release. Roero Riserva DOCG must age in oak for at least 6 months with a total age time of 32 months before being released. 

Langhe Nebbiolo DOC falls in (is a subset of) one of the largest wine zones in Piedmont, Langhe DOC. The Langhe DOC covers 54 communes of the Langhe and Roero hills. Varietally focused wines can include the name Langhe plus the grape. All told, there are 23 different forms of Langhe wines with Langhe Nebbiolo being just one. Langhe Nebbiolo DOC wines can come from anywhere in the Langhe i.e. from any of the four zones above (Barolo, Barbaresco, Nebbiolo d’Alba or Roero). Langhe Nebbiolo DOC must be at least 85% Nebbiolo and allow for up to 15% of other indigenous grape varieties, such as such as Barbera and Dolcetto. In practice most are made entirely from Nebbiolo.

Serralunga d'Alba in Piedmont, where the Nebbiolo grape is king

Barolo

Barolo, often referred to as the "King of Wines", is a powerful and full-bodied red wine made from Nebbiolo grapes. Barolo is special due to its unique combination of factors – its terroir, the Nebbiolo grape, and its winemaking traditions. The zone's spectacular terroir, a multitude of distinctive microclimates and soil compositions, is ideal for growing Nebbiolo. Furthermore, the centuries-old winemaking traditions add to the allure, resulting in a wine that is complex, full-bodied, and capable of aging gracefully for many years.

The Barolo zone (the regulated production area) is a relatively small area in Piemont. It is 11km north to south and just over 8km at its widest point. Barolo comprises 11 different communes around the larger towns in the area - some of the more famous towns or villages are Barolo, Montforte d’Alba, La Morra and Serralunga d’Alba. These communes each have unique geography, soil, climate and altitude. 

Barolo largely consists of three chains of hills separated by two north-south valleys, the Central Valley and Serralunga Valley. The communes are dotted up and down the twin valleys and hilly ranges that offer a huge variety of terroir.

The 3D flyover of Barola below is worth watching to appreciate the compexity of the topography, the countless number of small hills and the changes that occur in the space of a few metres. However, for anyone wishing to gain a full appreciation of what Barolo looks like in the flesh, Alessandro Masnaghetti's  Barolo MGA 360°  provides a superb digital replica of the landscape.
 

 Click on image to play 3D flyover

The Communes and 'Cru' Vineyards of Barolo 

There are 11 approved communes in the Barolo production zone. Over 87% of Barolo is produced in the original five and largest communes; La Morra, Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d'Alba and Monforte d'Alba.

The remaining six communes are Novello, Verduno, Cherasco, Roddi, Grinzane Cavour and Diano d’Alba (which is planted more to Dolcetto than Nebbiolo). Interestingly, the first two of these are home to two of the most in-demand vineyards in the entire region; Monvigliero in Verduno and Ravera in Novello.

La Morra and Barolo are the two main communes in the western part of the zone, also known as the Central Valley. The soils are Tortonian - a fertile, compact, calcareous marl that produces graceful wines with more florals and fruit. 

The Serralunga Valley to the east has Serravalian (also referred to as Helvetian) soils which are heavy in sandstone and sand, producing structured bold wines with high tannins. Within this area you will find the famous communes of Castiglione Falleto, Serralunga d’Alba and Monforte d’Alba.

 
Barolo drinkers had become familiar over the years with the most recognizable of the 11 commune names appearing on the labels; Castiglione Falletto and Monforte d'Alba, for example. However, in the ‘90s the world rediscovered Barolo, whose wines bore little comparison to the rough wines of the past. Barolo began selling out, prices increased and so did the surface area of vineyards. With new producers came a rise in new labels and new ways to distinguish one from the other. They began personalising their labels with more than just the commune; they used the names of the vineyards, villages, and people. This desire to differentiate quickly got out of control, and as has been the case in many other wine regions, the consumer became confused.

The first priority was to create order, to delineate and define the varying wine-growing areas. To make it official, the Barolo Consorzio, in cooperation with the province of Cuneo and the various Barolo villages, undertook the challenging task of regulating the use of vineyard and zonal names on labels. By 2010, after several years of hard work, they came up with a list of geographical designations that are allowed to appear on the Barolo label.

These geographical designations or MGA (menzioni geografiche aggiuntive or additional geographic designations) refer to specific delimited areas of production and can be seen as the equivalent of the French term cru. 

In total, there are 181 geographical designations, of which 11 are communal (one for each commune; e.g. Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba, Barolo del Comune di La Morra, etc.). Wines may be labeled with one of these MGA provided the fruit comes from the stated designation.  

The MGAs – it’s important to emphasize this – do not imply superiority in a qualitative sense. A Barolo carrying the name of an MGA on the label is not necessarily better or more valuable than a Barolo with another name or even with no name at all, although for many producers Barolo wines with an MGA usually represent the most prestigious wines in their lists.

Most of the 170 MGA refer to a single vineyard such as Cannubi or Brunate, however as there are a number of exceptions, the MGA term cannot technically be defined as a vineyard. Bussia, for example, in the commune of Monforte d'Alba and the second largest MGA at 738 acres, is actually a large hill made up of several vineyards. The name of single-vineyard wines within their eponymous MGA are permitted on the label. Poderi Aldo Conterno, one of Barolo’s greatest producers, makes wines from three separate vineyards situated within the Bussia MGA; Colonello, Cicala and Romirasco.  

 

Click map to enlarge 🔍

A number of the MGA extend across more than one Commune. The Cerequio MGA, for example, is located between the towns of La Morra and Barolo and extends across the boundary of the two communes. It is one of the most prestigious vineyards within the appellation and a truly stunning landscape – it is so revered that it has been nicknamed the "Riviera of the Langhe." Grapes from both sides are of extremely high-quality and become great wines, but acquiring land with the southwestern exposure is considered la crème de la crème of the MGA. Therefore, it is no coincidence that the labels that have made Barolo history are all from here.

Strange as it may seem, European laws prevent the use of two or more MGA names together on the label, thus effectively stopping a noble and well-documented tradition of Barolo obtained by blending various vineyards. However, if the MGAs are situated in the same commune, the label may specify "Barolo del Comune di Barolo" or "Barolo del Comune di La Morra" and so on. Although contradictory, the same law that prevents use of two or more MGAs on the label allows the producer to add up to 15% of Barolo obtained from a second MGA to a Barolo with an MGA stated on the label.

The proper term for a vineyard is vigna, which can also appear on the label. Two well-known examples are Poderi Oddero Barolo Bussia Vigna Mondoca and Bruno Giacosa Vigna Le Rocche Barolo Falletto. Note that the term vigna does not have to be used as an identifier – Aldo Conterno does not label his separate Barolos with this descriptor.

A brief summary of the most important communes and crus in the Barolo production zone follows.

La Morra

Situated at the northern end of the Central Valley, La Morra ranks first among all the communes as far as most acreage of Nebbiolo planted for production of Barolo as well as number of wineries (62); it is tied with Serralunga d’Alba for most MGA (39). Several of the highest vineyards in the zone are located here at elevations of more than 420m.

La Morra is known for Barolo with rounder, more gentle tannins and more floral aromatics (especially from the Brunate MGA), as opposed to wines from Serralunga and Monforte d'Alba. The wines from the Rocche dell’Annunziata site are among the most complex, elegant and structured in all the commune.

Top vineyards: Rocche dell’Annunziata, La Serra, Arborina, Conca, Brunate and Cerequio (these last two are primarily situated in La Morra, with a smaller part of these sites also in the commune of Barolo).

Top Producers: Renato Ratti, Roberto Voerzio, Poderi Oddero, Elio Altare, Fratelli Revello, Marcarini, Mauro Molino, Mauro Veglio, Trediberri, Aurelio Settimo

Barolo

Situated at the southern end of the Central Valley, this commune lends its name to the wine produced in the Barolo Zone. The wines here are a mix of styles, with a typical Barolo from here being rich in tannins with a slight austerity. The most famous vineyard here is Cannubi, which contains both Tortonian and Serravalian soils, creating wines of great complexity.

Top vineyards: Cannubi, Sarmassa, Bricco delle Viole, Terlo, Liste, Castellero

Top Producers: Bartolo Mascarello, Marchesi di Barolo, Scarzello, Borgogno, Damilano, Giuseppe Rinaldi, Francesco Rinaldi, Giacamo Brezza, Luciano Sandrone

Monforte d'Alba

Situated at the far southeastern reaches of the zone, Monforte d’Alba is home to long-aging, powerful examples of Barolo. There are only 11 MGA, but 53 wineries here; one reason for this is the large number of producers that make a Bussia Barolo. The wines here are generally quite ripe, and while there are numerous producers that take a modern approach in the cellar (e.g. Domenico Clerico), there are some such as Elio Grasso that specialize in more traditional examples of Barolo, with their Ginestra Casa Maté and Gavarini Chiniera Barolos.

Top vineyards: Ginestra, Bussia, Mosconi, Castelletto, Le Coste di Monforte

Top producers: Elio Grasso, Domenico Clerico, Poderi Aldo Conterno, Giovanni Manzone, Josetta Saffirio, Giacomo Conterno, Giacomo Fenocchio, Amalia Cascina in Langa

Serralunga d’Alba 

Situated north of Monforte d’Alba, Serralunga d’Alba marks the eastern border of the Barolo zone. If a classic syle of Barolo combines deep structure and longevity, then the Barolos of Serralunga are certainly among the most classic. These wines require time, but offers great rewards at their peak. Yet, you can find very approachable examples of Barolo from here; the offerings of Barolo Comune di Serralunga d’Alba are often quite open upon release, displaying the rich fruit and tannins of Serralunga in a more refined manner. These are among the best values of the entire Barolo zone.

As much as any commune, Serralunga is known for its remarkable assortment of vineyards, including Lazzarito, Vignarionda, Falletto of Bruno Giacosa, and Francia, the source of the celebrated Monfortino Barolo of Giacomo Conterno.

Top Vineyards: Falletto, Francia, Lazzarito, Vignarionda, Margheria, Cerretta, Prapò, Parafada

Top Producers: Fontanafredda, Ettore Germano, Paolo Manzone, Giovanni Rosso, Schiavenza, Palladino, Luigi Pira

Castiglione Falletto

The commune of Castiglione Falletto is located to the west of Serralunga d’Alba, north of Monforte d’Alba and east of La Morra. The soils here are mixed with a good percentage of sand, resulting in wines that are often more fragrant and less tannic than those from Serralunga and Monforte. A typical Castiglione Falletto Barolo displays red cherry and starwberry fruit aromas and flavors along with distinct red spice notes. Rocche di Castiglione is arguably the best known site here, along with Villero (the source of Vietti riserva), Bricco Rocche of Ceretto, and Monprivato, this last made famous by Giuseppe Mascarello.

Top Vineyards: Rocche di Castiglione, Bricco Rocche, Villero, Bricco Boschis, Parussi, Fiasco, Pernanno, Monprivato, Montanello

Top Producers: Vietti, Paolo Scavino, Cavallotto, Monchiero Fratelli, Giovanni Sordo, Livia Fontanai

Verduno

Verduno represents the far northwest reaches of the Barolo zone, and is known for wines that combine excellent ripeness with subtle spice, generally with mid-weight tannins. Clearly Verduno is most famous for the Monvigliero vineyard, situated just east of the town of Verduno, ranging from 220-310m above sea level. While most of this commune’s producers make a Monvigliero Barolo, recently many vintners throughout the Barolo zone have also added a Barolo from this vineyard - this includes Paolo Scavino, Giovanni Sordo and Terre del Barolo.

Top Vineyards: Monvigliero, San Lorenzo di Verduno, Boscatto, Massara

Top Producers: Burlotto, Fratelli Alessandria, Bel Colle, Castello di Verduno

Novello

The commune of Novello is located at the far southwestern corner of the Barolo zone and has one of the coolest climates of any commune, thanks to the winds from the Cottian Alps to the south. The wines of Novello were among the most unrelenting years ago, but because of climate change, a typical Barolo from Novello is now riper and much more elegant. Clearly the interest in this commune over the past decade can be traced to the work of Valter Fissore and his wife Nadia, at their Elvio Cogno estate, with wines from the Ravera vineyard. Recently several renowned producers such as Vietti and Paolo Scavino have also released a Ravera Barolo.

Top Vineyards: Ravera, Sottocastello di Novello, Cerviano-Merli, Panerole, Corini-Palaretta

Top Producers: Elvio Cogno, Ca’Viola, Le Strette, Marenco

The winery

"While Giovanni Rosso isn’t one of the best known Barolo estates, it is one of the best."  Jamie Goode

Azienda Agricola Giovanni Rosso is a family-owned estate located in the commune of Serralunga d'Alba, which marks the eastern border of the Barolo zone. The family has farmed vineyards in Serralunga d'Alba since the 1890s, however, the first real qualitative leap took place in the 1980s when Giovanni Rosso restructured most of the vineyards with modern planting layouts.

By focusing his energy on the vineyards, Giovanni was responsible for the meteoric rise in the fortunes of the estate. He raised the quality of the fruit to such a level that wines were released under the 'Giovanni Rosso' label for the first time in 1995.

Giovanni's son, the very talented Davide Rosso, completed his degree in Oenology and departed for France, gaining experience working in Alsace, Champagne and Burgundy, most notably with Domaine Jean Grivot and Denis Mortet. In 2001, at the age of 27, he returned to his father’s side and took over as head of the winery. Davide had one goal in mind, to make wine that accurately reflected the terroir - in this case from the many slopes they own in Serralunga d'Alba.

The vineyards are managed organically and although there is no certification, no pesticides or herbicides are used. Today, there are 12 hectares under vine, which include vineyards in the special crus of Vigna Rionda, Cerretta and Serra:

• Cerretta, which is on calcareous clay, has been owned by the family since 1920 and was partly replanted in 1984 and 2000.
• La Serra, which is on limestone, was acquired by the family in 1946 and vines were planted in 1984, 1996 and 2003.
  
• The jewel in the crown, Vigna Rionda, is on a mix of calcareous clay and sandstone. It was acquired in 2010 when the previous owner, Davide's uncle Tommaso Canale, passed away. Davide replanted three-quarters of the vineyard to nebbiolo but left the remaining quarter, with its magnificent old vine nebbiolo which was planted in 1946, intact. Davide makes two wines from the vineyard, both named in honour of his mother, Ester Canale. One is the Nebbiolo Langhe Rosso (from the young vines) and the other the Barolo Vigna Rionda Rosso (from the old vines).
  

The Giovanni Rosso cantina (winery) is located just over two kilometers north of Serralunga d’Alba village, in the small hamlet of Baudana, which offers beautiful views of the many vineyards that surround it. The winery is a traditional family cascina, or farmhouse, and houses the majority of Giovanni Rosso’s wine production together with the fermentation, bottling and labeling facilities, as well as the offices. 

The Giovanni Rosso Story

The Vineyards

Vignarionda, Serralunga d'Alba

Area: 0.85 Hectares   
Variety: Nebbiolo 
Elevation: 355m    
Planting Density: 5,000 / hectare   
Owned by the Rosso family since 1934, it was replanted in 1945 and partly in 2011
The soil is a mix of calcareous clay or marl and sandstone  

Cerretta, Serralunga d'Alba  

Area: 3.5 Hectare 
Varieties: Nebbiolo and Barbera
Elevation: 360m   
Planting Density: 5,000 / hectare   
Owned by the Rosso family since 1920, it was partly replanted in 1984 and 2000
The soil is essentially made up of calcareous clay or marl

La Serra, Serralunga d'Alba  

Area: 1 Hectare 
Variety: Nebbiolo
Elevation: 378m      
Planting Density: 5,000 / hectare   
Owned by the Rosso family since 1946, vines planted in 1984, 1996 and 2003
The soil is noticeably white, being rich in active calcium (limestone)

Meriame, Serralunga d'Alba 

Area: 1 Hectare 
Variety: Nebbiolo   
Planting Density: 5,000 / hectare   
Owned by the Rosso family since 1946
The soil is noticeably white, being rich in active calcium (limestone)

Broglio, Serralunga d'Alba   

Area: ½ Hectare 
Varieties: Nebbiolo and Dolcetto   
Planting Density: 5,000 / hectare   
The soil consists of a particularly high percentage of sand      

Sorano, Serralunga d'Alba

Area: 2 Hectares   
Variety: Nebbiolo   
Planting Density: 5,000 / hectare   
This was partly replanted in 2008 replacing vines planted in 1947
The soil is a deep calcareous clay

Costa Bella, Serralunga d'Alba

Area: 2 Hectares   
Varieties: Dolcetto d'Alba and Barbera d'Alba 
Planting Density: 5,000 / hectare     
Planted in 1959
The soil is essentially made up of a calcareous clay

Lirano, Serralunga d'Alba

Area: About 1 Hectare   
Variety: Sauvignon Blanc 
Planting Density: 5,000 / hectare   
Owned by the Rosso family since 1946, it was planted in 2000 with Sauvignon Blanc
The soil is rich in sand, shade supplied by the surrounding woods

Damiano, Serralunga d'Alba

Area: About 1 Hectare   
Varieties: Dolcetto d'Alba and Barbera d'Alba   
Planted in 1994 and 2000, it's a very cool, breezy vineyard
The soil is rich in limestone and minerals