Monchiero Rocche di Castiglione, Barolo DOCG 2012

The fabled "Rocche", one of the smallest and most renowned crus in Barolo, gives us a window into the elegant, feminine side of Barolo.

Azienda Agricola Monchiero is one of the best kept secrets of Piedmont. Nestled in the picturesque commune of Castiglione Falletto in the Barolo region, it is surrounded by some of the greatest terroir you will find in all of Piedmont. There's a belt of vineyards in Castiglione Falletto that some refer to as the Chambolle-Musigny of Piedmont and Monchiero sits right within this patch. The wines from this exceptional producer are complex and elegant, with incredible balance and purity of fruit.

"Sweet red berries dusted with white pepper, aromatic herbs, red cherry and cola, old orange peel, whiff of new leather and smoke too. Medium bodied, supple and smooth glide of fine dusty tannin, orange peel aromatics, new leather savouries and scrub herb, with plump red fruits and a gentle dusting of tannin on a pretty sound spicy and herb-laced finish. Very nice."  Gary Walsh

"The 2012 Monchiero Rocche Di Castiglione Falletto Barolo is produced from 25+ year old nebbiolo vines at an altitude of 330 metres above sea level. Ultra red-fruited with real poise and finesse. There's great minerality and an almond meal character and truffle scents with the quintessential cleansing aniseed in the form of a fennel seed like flavour profile. An archetypal 2012 Barolo, fine boned and elegant."  Vittorio Monchiero

Vittorio Monchiero discusses his Rocche di Castiglione Barolo

Expert reviews

"Sweet red berries dusted with white pepper, aromatic herbs, red cherry and cola, old orange peel, whiff of new leather and smoke too. Medium bodied, supple and smooth glide of fine dusty tannin, orange peel aromatics, new leather savouries and scrub herb, with plump red fruits and a gentle dusting of tannin on a pretty sound spicy and herb-laced finish. Very nice. Drink: 2018-2030+."  Gary Walsh, The Wine Front – 94 points

Piedmont Nebbiolo

The Piedmont wine region is located in the north-west corner of Italy. The name Piemonte means "at the foot of the mountains", the mountains in this case being the Alps. Piedmont is just Italy’s seventh largest wine region, but what it lacks in quantity it makes up for in quality.

Piedmont is famous for its Nebbiolo wines. Nebbiolo, the most exalted wine variety of Piedmont, gets its name from the Italian word for 'fog', nebbia. During harvest, which generally takes place late in October, a deep, intense fog sets into the Langhe region where the Nebbiolo vineyards are located. The Nebbiolo heartland is the tiny Barolo production zone, a cluster of fog-prone hills around the village of the same name.

Nebbiolo is early-budding, but also late-ripening. It needs good weather and lots of sunlight to achieve full ripeness, which is why the best vineyards for growing Nebbiolo are located on hillsides that are exposed to plenty of sunlight. Hence the suitability of the slopes of the Langhe hills near the town of Alba. Nebbiolo is only planted on the hills at an altitude above 250m, as fog hangs over lower vineyards for large parts of the day and there is no chance of making decent wine from this late-ripening variety if it is not exposed to maximum sunshine. The lower vineyards are generally planted with Barbera or Dolcetto.

Soil types also play a crucial role. Nebbiolo thrives on calcareous marl, a lime-rich mudstone that is found on the right bank of the Tanaro River, home to the famous appellations Barolo and Barbaresco. Nebbiolo grapes grown on other soil types tend to make wines that are not as aromatic and elegant.

Nebbiolo produces a full-bodied wine with high levels of acidity and tannin, particularly when it is young - at odds with its light colour. It also has great aging potential – particularly the Barbaresco and Barolo wines that garner the highest price tags.

The two highest classifications of wines produced from Nebbiolo in Piedmont are the DOCG denomination Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin) and the DOC denomination Denominazione d'Origine Controllata (Denomination of Controlled Origin).

In total, there are seventeen DOCG and DOC wines made in Piedmont. The five applicable to Nebbiolo are Barolo DOCG, Barbaresco DOCG and Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC (which must be made from 100% Nebbiolo) and Roero DOCG and Langhe Nebbiolo DOC (which must be made from at least 85% Nebbiolo).

 DOCG and DOC Nebbiolo production zones in Piedmont

Barolo DOCG is perhaps the most famous Nebbiolo wine. Its name derives from the small town in the heart of the Barolo production zone, but it is produced in eleven communes around the larger hillside towns in the area. Barolo DOCG wines must be made from 100% Nebbiolo and must age in oak for at least 18 months with a total age time of 38 months before release. Barolo Riserva DOCG must age in oak for at least 18 months with a total age time of 62 months before being released.

Barbaresco DOCG is often described as more elegant than the more powerful Barolo, the 'queen' to Barolo’s 'king'. Barbaresco DOCG wines must be made from 100% Nebbiolo. The production zone is tiny, a third of the size of Barolo, and has less stringent regulations. Barbaresco DOCG wines must age in oak for at least 9 months with a total age time of 26 months before release. Barbaresco Riserva DOCG must age in oak for at least 9 months with a total age time of 50 months before being released.

Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC is produced between Barolo and Barbaresco. Near the two zones the wines are full-bodied and age very well. Further away, they’re delicate and best drunk young. This wine can also come from grapes from Barola or Barbaresco not quite up to heavenly standards, such as grapes from new vineyards in the famous hills or from less exalted vineyards. Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC wines must be made from 100% Nebbiolo and must age for at least 12 months before release. Nebbiolo d’Alba Superiore DOC wines must age in oak for at least 6 months with a total age time of 18 months before being released.

Roero DOCG is a little known zone just north of Barolo within the Langhe. Roero DOCG wines must be at least 95% Nebbiolo and must age in oak for at least 6 months with a total age time of 20 months before release. Roero Riserva DOCG must age in oak for at least 6 months with a total age time of 32 months before being released.

Langhe Nebbiolo DOC falls in (is a subset of) one of the largest wine zones in Piedmont, Langhe DOC. The Langhe DOC covers 54 communes of the Langhe and Roero hills. Varietally focused wines can include the name Langhe plus the grape. All told, there are 23 different forms of Langhe wines with Langhe Nebbiolo being just one. Langhe Nebbiolo DOC wines can come from anywhere in the Langhe i.e. from any of the four zones above (Barolo, Barbaresco, Nebbiolo d’Alba or Roero). Langhe Nebbiolo DOC must be at least 85% Nebbiolo and allow for up to 15% of other indigenous grape varieties, such as such as Barbera and Dolcetto. In practice most are made entirely from Nebbiolo.

Serralunga d'Alba in Piedmont, where the Nebbiolo grape is king

Barolo

Barolo, often referred to as the "King of Wines", is a powerful and full-bodied red wine made from Nebbiolo grapes. Barolo is special due to its unique combination of factors – its terroir, the Nebbiolo grape, and its winemaking traditions. The zone's spectacular terroir, a multitude of distinctive microclimates and soil compositions, is ideal for growing Nebbiolo. Furthermore, the centuries-old winemaking traditions add to the allure, resulting in a wine that is complex, full-bodied, and capable of aging gracefully for many years.

The Barolo zone (the regulated production area) is a relatively small area in Piemont. It is 11km north to south and just over 8km at its widest point. Barolo comprises 11 different communes around the larger towns in the area - some of the more famous towns or villages are Barolo, Montforte d’Alba, La Morra and Serralunga d’Alba. These communes each have unique geography, soil, climate and altitude. 

Barolo largely consists of three chains of hills separated by two north-south valleys, the Central Valley and Serralunga Valley. The communes are dotted up and down the twin valleys and hilly ranges that offer a huge variety of terroir.

The 3D flyover of Barola below is worth watching to appreciate the compexity of the topography, the countless number of small hills and the changes that occur in the space of a few metres. However, for anyone wishing to gain a full appreciation of what Barolo looks like in the flesh, Alessandro Masnaghetti's  Barolo MGA 360°  provides a superb digital replica of the landscape.
 

 Click on image to play 3D flyover

The Communes and 'Cru' Vineyards of Barolo 

There are 11 approved communes in the Barolo production zone. Over 87% of Barolo is produced in the original five and largest communes; La Morra, Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d'Alba and Monforte d'Alba.

The remaining six communes are Novello, Verduno, Cherasco, Roddi, Grinzane Cavour and Diano d’Alba (which is planted more to Dolcetto than Nebbiolo). Interestingly, the first two of these are home to two of the most in-demand vineyards in the entire region; Monvigliero in Verduno and Ravera in Novello.

La Morra and Barolo are the two main communes in the western part of the zone, also known as the Central Valley. The soils are Tortonian - a fertile, compact, calcareous marl that produces graceful wines with more florals and fruit. 

The Serralunga Valley to the east has Serravalian (also referred to as Helvetian) soils which are heavy in sandstone and sand, producing structured bold wines with high tannins. Within this area you will find the famous communes of Castiglione Falleto, Serralunga d’Alba and Monforte d’Alba.

 
Barolo drinkers had become familiar over the years with the most recognizable of the 11 commune names appearing on the labels; Castiglione Falletto and Monforte d'Alba, for example. However, in the ‘90s the world rediscovered Barolo, whose wines bore little comparison to the rough wines of the past. Barolo began selling out, prices increased and so did the surface area of vineyards. With new producers came a rise in new labels and new ways to distinguish one from the other. They began personalising their labels with more than just the commune; they used the names of the vineyards, villages, and people. This desire to differentiate quickly got out of control, and as has been the case in many other wine regions, the consumer became confused.

The first priority was to create order, to delineate and define the varying wine-growing areas. To make it official, the Barolo Consorzio, in cooperation with the province of Cuneo and the various Barolo villages, undertook the challenging task of regulating the use of vineyard and zonal names on labels. By 2010, after several years of hard work, they came up with a list of geographical designations that are allowed to appear on the Barolo label.

These geographical designations or MGA (menzioni geografiche aggiuntive or additional geographic designations) refer to specific delimited areas of production and can be seen as the equivalent of the French term cru. 

In total, there are 181 geographical designations, of which 11 are communal (one for each commune; e.g. Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba, Barolo del Comune di La Morra, etc.). Wines may be labeled with one of these MGA provided the fruit comes from the stated designation.  

The MGAs – it’s important to emphasize this – do not imply superiority in a qualitative sense. A Barolo carrying the name of an MGA on the label is not necessarily better or more valuable than a Barolo with another name or even with no name at all, although for many producers Barolo wines with an MGA usually represent the most prestigious wines in their lists.

Most of the 170 MGA refer to a single vineyard such as Cannubi or Brunate, however as there are a number of exceptions, the MGA term cannot technically be defined as a vineyard. Bussia, for example, in the commune of Monforte d'Alba and the second largest MGA at 738 acres, is actually a large hill made up of several vineyards. The name of single-vineyard wines within their eponymous MGA are permitted on the label. Poderi Aldo Conterno, one of Barolo’s greatest producers, makes wines from three separate vineyards situated within the Bussia MGA; Colonello, Cicala and Romirasco.  

 

Click map to enlarge 🔍

A number of the MGA extend across more than one Commune. The Cerequio MGA, for example, is located between the towns of La Morra and Barolo and extends across the boundary of the two communes. It is one of the most prestigious vineyards within the appellation and a truly stunning landscape – it is so revered that it has been nicknamed the "Riviera of the Langhe." Grapes from both sides are of extremely high-quality and become great wines, but acquiring land with the southwestern exposure is considered la crème de la crème of the MGA. Therefore, it is no coincidence that the labels that have made Barolo history are all from here.

Strange as it may seem, European laws prevent the use of two or more MGA names together on the label, thus effectively stopping a noble and well-documented tradition of Barolo obtained by blending various vineyards. However, if the MGAs are situated in the same commune, the label may specify "Barolo del Comune di Barolo" or "Barolo del Comune di La Morra" and so on. Although contradictory, the same law that prevents use of two or more MGAs on the label allows the producer to add up to 15% of Barolo obtained from a second MGA to a Barolo with an MGA stated on the label.

The proper term for a vineyard is vigna, which can also appear on the label. Two well-known examples are Poderi Oddero Barolo Bussia Vigna Mondoca and Bruno Giacosa Vigna Le Rocche Barolo Falletto. Note that the term vigna does not have to be used as an identifier – Aldo Conterno does not label his separate Barolos with this descriptor.

A brief summary of the most important communes and crus in the Barolo production zone follows.

La Morra

Situated at the northern end of the Central Valley, La Morra ranks first among all the communes as far as most acreage of Nebbiolo planted for production of Barolo as well as number of wineries (62); it is tied with Serralunga d’Alba for most MGA (39). Several of the highest vineyards in the zone are located here at elevations of more than 420m.

La Morra is known for Barolo with rounder, more gentle tannins and more floral aromatics (especially from the Brunate MGA), as opposed to wines from Serralunga and Monforte d'Alba. The wines from the Rocche dell’Annunziata site are among the most complex, elegant and structured in all the commune.

Top vineyards: Rocche dell’Annunziata, La Serra, Arborina, Conca, Brunate and Cerequio (these last two are primarily situated in La Morra, with a smaller part of these sites also in the commune of Barolo).

Top Producers: Renato Ratti, Roberto Voerzio, Poderi Oddero, Elio Altare, Fratelli Revello, Marcarini, Mauro Molino, Mauro Veglio, Trediberri, Aurelio Settimo

Barolo

Situated at the southern end of the Central Valley, this commune lends its name to the wine produced in the Barolo Zone. The wines here are a mix of styles, with a typical Barolo from here being rich in tannins with a slight austerity. The most famous vineyard here is Cannubi, which contains both Tortonian and Serravalian soils, creating wines of great complexity.

Top vineyards: Cannubi, Sarmassa, Bricco delle Viole, Terlo, Liste, Castellero

Top Producers: Bartolo Mascarello, Marchesi di Barolo, Scarzello, Borgogno, Damilano, Giuseppe Rinaldi, Francesco Rinaldi, Giacamo Brezza, Luciano Sandrone

Monforte d'Alba

Situated at the far southeastern reaches of the zone, Monforte d’Alba is home to long-aging, powerful examples of Barolo. There are only 11 MGA, but 53 wineries here; one reason for this is the large number of producers that make a Bussia Barolo. The wines here are generally quite ripe, and while there are numerous producers that take a modern approach in the cellar (e.g. Domenico Clerico), there are some such as Elio Grasso that specialize in more traditional examples of Barolo, with their Ginestra Casa Maté and Gavarini Chiniera Barolos.

Top vineyards: Ginestra, Bussia, Mosconi, Castelletto, Le Coste di Monforte

Top producers: Elio Grasso, Domenico Clerico, Poderi Aldo Conterno, Giovanni Manzone, Josetta Saffirio, Giacomo Conterno, Giacomo Fenocchio, Amalia Cascina in Langa

Serralunga d’Alba 

Situated north of Monforte d’Alba, Serralunga d’Alba marks the eastern border of the Barolo zone. If a classic syle of Barolo combines deep structure and longevity, then the Barolos of Serralunga are certainly among the most classic. These wines require time, but offers great rewards at their peak. Yet, you can find very approachable examples of Barolo from here; the offerings of Barolo Comune di Serralunga d’Alba are often quite open upon release, displaying the rich fruit and tannins of Serralunga in a more refined manner. These are among the best values of the entire Barolo zone.

As much as any commune, Serralunga is known for its remarkable assortment of vineyards, including Lazzarito, Vignarionda, Falletto of Bruno Giacosa, and Francia, the source of the celebrated Monfortino Barolo of Giacomo Conterno.

Top Vineyards: Falletto, Francia, Lazzarito, Vignarionda, Margheria, Cerretta, Prapò, Parafada

Top Producers: Fontanafredda, Ettore Germano, Paolo Manzone, Giovanni Rosso, Schiavenza, Palladino, Luigi Pira

Castiglione Falletto

The commune of Castiglione Falletto is located to the west of Serralunga d’Alba, north of Monforte d’Alba and east of La Morra. The soils here are mixed with a good percentage of sand, resulting in wines that are often more fragrant and less tannic than those from Serralunga and Monforte. A typical Castiglione Falletto Barolo displays red cherry and starwberry fruit aromas and flavors along with distinct red spice notes. Rocche di Castiglione is arguably the best known site here, along with Villero (the source of Vietti riserva), Bricco Rocche of Ceretto, and Monprivato, this last made famous by Giuseppe Mascarello.

Top Vineyards: Rocche di Castiglione, Bricco Rocche, Villero, Bricco Boschis, Parussi, Fiasco, Pernanno, Monprivato, Montanello

Top Producers: Vietti, Paolo Scavino, Cavallotto, Monchiero Fratelli, Giovanni Sordo, Livia Fontanai

Verduno

Verduno represents the far northwest reaches of the Barolo zone, and is known for wines that combine excellent ripeness with subtle spice, generally with mid-weight tannins. Clearly Verduno is most famous for the Monvigliero vineyard, situated just east of the town of Verduno, ranging from 220-310m above sea level. While most of this commune’s producers make a Monvigliero Barolo, recently many vintners throughout the Barolo zone have also added a Barolo from this vineyard - this includes Paolo Scavino, Giovanni Sordo and Terre del Barolo.

Top Vineyards: Monvigliero, San Lorenzo di Verduno, Boscatto, Massara

Top Producers: Burlotto, Fratelli Alessandria, Bel Colle, Castello di Verduno

Novello

The commune of Novello is located at the far southwestern corner of the Barolo zone and has one of the coolest climates of any commune, thanks to the winds from the Cottian Alps to the south. The wines of Novello were among the most unrelenting years ago, but because of climate change, a typical Barolo from Novello is now riper and much more elegant. Clearly the interest in this commune over the past decade can be traced to the work of Valter Fissore and his wife Nadia, at their Elvio Cogno estate, with wines from the Ravera vineyard. Recently several renowned producers such as Vietti and Paolo Scavino have also released a Ravera Barolo.

Top Vineyards: Ravera, Sottocastello di Novello, Cerviano-Merli, Panerole, Corini-Palaretta

Top Producers: Elvio Cogno, Ca’Viola, Le Strette, Marenco

Rocche di Castiglione

 

 Monchiero Rocche di Castiglione Vineyard

The fabled "Rocche", one of the smallest and most renowned crus in Barolo, gives us a window into the elegant, feminine side of Barolo.

Rocche di Castiglione is one of the smallest and most renowned vineyards in Barolo. Located at an altitude of 300-350 meters above sea level, this cru (MGA) consists of a number of small, steep vineyard properties and forms a long narrow strip along the side of a very steep hill with an east-southeast exposition. The lower part of this long strip of earth, which is about 1.5 km long and 60-70 meters high, sits on a cliff ("rocche") that in some places drops as much as 150 meters to the Perno river at the bottom.

The terrain consists primarily of limestone with a notable presence of sand and tuff. These characteristics give the wines of Rocche unique, well-defined aromas, soft tannins, excellent balance, and a distinctive elegance. The vines of Rocche have a median age of about 40 years. This vineyard is dedicated exclusively to Nebbiolo for Barolo.

Monchiero is one of seven producers with title to this important vineyard. Vittoria Monchiero has this to say, "My family bought this parcel in the 1970's. This is the most inaccessible and the steepest vineyard we have, it's hard to work, and also dangerous. But it is also the most important tract, one that gives rise to a Barolo with incredible elegance. It is the most sought-after Barolo, probably the one people love best. It's a source of great satisfaction to have a corner of this part of Castiglione Falletto. An elegant Barolo. Why elegant? Because you can see that the soil here contains a small amount of sand. And this sand is what gives a wine elegance. This elegance is part of the regal structure of this wine, but the sand also adds great aroma, an elegant aroma. This accounts for the great success of this cru, so sought-after by everyone."

The winery

The Monchiero family - Stefano, Vittorio, Luca and Daniela (left to right)

Azienda Agricola Monchiero is nestled in the picturesque commune of Castiglione Falletto in the Barolo region It is surrounded by some of the greatest terroir you will find in all of Piedmont. There's a belt of vineyards in Castiglione Falletto that some refer to as the Chambolle-Musigny of Piedmont and Monchiero sits right within this patch. The wines from this exceptional producer are complex and elegant, with incredible balance and purity of fruit.

For generations the Monchiero family lived on the Montanello estate, just outside the small town of Castiglione Falletto and worked the vineyard as sharecroppers. When the system was abolished in the 1950s, the family left the estate and brothers Remo and Maggiorino Monchiero started producing wine under their family name. In 1982 they purchased a small winery in Castiglione Falletto that was built in the 13th century.

In the 1980s, Vittorio Monchiero, son of Maggiorino, graduated from the College of Viticulture in Alba and gradually became involved in the business operated by his father and uncle. After marrying his wife Daniela, he took over the wine cellar and marketing in the 1990s, attending trade fairs worldwide to expand Monchiero's client base. He also acquired choice patches of land, including a plot in the Montanello cru which saw the family return to their roots. 

Vittorio remains committed to the region’s traditional practices as opposed to the flashier 'international style' that has taken root in many of Piedmont’s cellars over the last few decades. He favours long maceration periods with skin contact and aging in large Slavonian oak casks, which he believes helps express the flavours and aromas that make Piedmont’s wines unique. 

In 2017 Vittorio's eldest son, Luca, joined the family winery.  His younger son, Stefano, is studying viticulture and will soon do the same.

Today, the Monchiero family own 25 acres of vineyard spread throughout Piedmont. Seven acres of vineyards in Castiglione Falletto are the heart of the family's holdings, which produce Barolos from the Rocche di Castiglione and Montanello crus, a Barolo Del Comune di Castiglione Faletto from mainly the Pernanno cru and a Langhe Nebbiolo from parts of the vineyards that aren't within the Barolo appellation. The family also produces a Barolo from the Roere di Santa Maria cru, in La Morra. Since the 1990s the cru vineyards in Castiglione Falletto and La Morra have been completely replanted using the best grafting and training techniques.