Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon 2004

Philip Rich Top 20 Wines of 2007

"Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the blue blood classics of Australia. Regardless of the vintage conditions, they are a pleasure to drink at almost any stage of their development."  James Halliday

Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon is one of Australia's iconic wines and deservedly fits in the Exceptional category of Langton's Classification of Australian Wine. Handcrafted by Keith & Clare Mugford and their team, the wine is the very definition of power and elegance. Moss Wood is located in the Wilyabrup sub-region in the heart of Margaret River and the  Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from the estate vineyard first planted in 1969 with the famed Houghton clone. 

"Long-termer. Impeccably balanced. A little gun-shy at present but the structure and complexity is all there - it's more complex than usual for a young Moss Wood. Violets, mint, gravel, blackcurrant, salt, dried herbs - and a slow swoosh of vanillin. Really classy wine. Carries an olive-like, woody hit on the finish - which is most beguiling."  Campbell Mattinson

"Keith loves the wine's bright youthful, deep brick red colour, attractive primary fruit, violets, toasty oak, leather, chocolate and mulberry and feels it sings with generous primary fruit. On the palate, the generous dark fruit flavours and full body make it almost plump and round, but underneath is a firm but well-integrated tannin structure and toasty, smoky oak in the background. It has good length and finishes with some violet notes.

How does it compare with its recent siblings? Amongst the winery crew, the 2001 is the current benchmark and maybe the 2004 doesn't quite reach it. And hard core wine lovers might even prefer the concentration and slumbering intensity of 2003. However, the 2004 has delicious, up-front generosity with complexity, not dissimilar to the 1994 and perhaps may be described as a more complete version of the 2000 (the ultimate user-friendly, gluggable vintage) but more mysterious. An indication of its appeal may be seen when, in an unguarded moment, Keith was heard to mutter. 'It's ripe, soft and yummy' and in his more pensive moments he pauses to wonder just how great it would have been if Mother Nature had allowed the grapes to sit on the vines for those few extra days of slow ripening. (Wow!).

This wine will be delicious for the next few years, possibly closed at five to seven years of age although it should start to open at about ten, and be at its best at 15 years and beyond."   Moss Wood (Vintage Rating 9/10)

Expert reviews

"The newly released Moss Wood cabernet sauvignon 2004 is one of the bigger and more robust Moss Wood cabernets, largely as a result of a very warm period during vintage. The hallmark elegance and supple generosity are still there. Palate is seamless and perfectly balanced with expertly woven oak. You will easily get 20-plus years out of this wine."  Ray Jordan, The West Australian – 96 points

"Cabernet was first planted at Moss Wood in 1970 and, despite its proximity to Cullen (the other Margaret River cabernet in this year's top 20), the style at Moss Wood is towards a slightly riper and softer wine whose sheer drinkability as a young wine often masks the fact that they age well too. The 2004 certainly fits into this category and, despite the 14.5% alcohol, this comes across as being ripe with out being overdone, with its aromas of dark berry fruit, earthiness, cedar and cigar box, together with a little dark chocolate. On the palate, this already opulent, textured and delicious wine will reward even another 10 years cellaring."  Philip Rich, Australian Financial Review, Top 20 Wines of 2007

"Classic, austere regional/varietal expression; curiously, the grip is more evident on entry than on the finish and aftertaste, thanks to superfine tannins. 14.5º alc. Drink Now - 2025."  James Halliday, Halliday Wine Companion - 95 points

"Typically ripe and sumptuous, with a confiture-like array of blackberry, cassis, dark cherry, mulberry and dark plum flavour handsomely cloaked in cedar/vanilla oak and coated by exceptionally fine, dusty and powdery tannin. It's heady and perfumed, smooth and silky, finishing with exemplary length and depth of fruit, plus a hint of warmth. Its very modern depth of ripeness perhaps comes at the cost of a small measure of finesse. Drink 2016-2024."  Jeremy Oliver - 95 points

"The aristocratic cabernet sauvignon has long been one of Australia's most collectable reds. The '04 continues the pedigree with great purity of cassis-like varietal character, integrated quality oak and a fleshy, multi-layered palate of sustained flavour and balance, underpinned by fine ripe tannins. Classy."  Ralph Kyte-Powell, Epicure Uncorked  ★★★★★

"Long-termer. Impeccably balanced. A little gun-shy at present but the structure and complexity is all there - it's more complex than usual for a young Moss Wood. Violets, mint, gravel, blackcurrant, salt, dried herbs - and a slow swoosh of vanillin. Quite a bit of tannin - again, a bit more ardent than usual. Really classy wine. Carries an olive-like, woody hit on the finish - which is most beguiling. Drink: 2015-2022."  Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front - 94 points

"With considerable weight and yet piercing clarity of message, this wine brings your taste buds to attention and then marshals its dark berry and chocolate flavours around with balletic precision. With a decade ahead of it Moss Wood Cabernet is in no hurry to show its full hand – but you can see it's a winning one from the other side of the world." Matthew Jukes, Expertwine newsletter

Awards

Philip Rich Top 20 Wines of 2007

Wilyabrup

Wilyabrup Bluff

"Ask any Master of Wine where the world’s best cabernet comes from and I suspect that most will tell you that it’s the left bank of the Gironde River in Bordeaux in France – but ask a parochial Aussie aficionado and I reckon that many will tell you to look for wines from the Wilyabrup sub-region in the Sandgroper’s premier cabernet district. With headline acts like Moss Wood, Cullen, Juniper Estate and Vasse Felix, the Wilyabrup story is as impressive as it is irresistible. Located only about 20 kilometres north of the Margaret River, the area enjoys a Mediterranean climate thanks to the cooling south westerly and westerly breezes. Its coastal proximity means that it avoids the extreme temperatures that can make winemaking more challenging and the ancient gravelly loams, wet winters and dry summers make for perfect conditions for cabernet production.

The Margaret River is rightly regarded as one of Australia’s best cabernet producing regions, but Wilyabrup is the Rock Star sub-region and if you ask me, sets the benchmark for non-Bordeaux cabernet sauvignon."  Travis Schultz, travisschultz.com.au

The text below was taken from an article by Marcus Ellis that appeared in Young Gun of Wine

In 1999, Dr Gladstones published a follow-up paper to his landmark study after the evidence of 30 years of winegrowing was in. His report, which analysed climate and soil data proposed that there were clearly six distinct sub-regions: Wilyabrup, Carbunup, Yallingup, Treeton, Wallcliffe and Karridale (refer map below).

Revisiting that report in 2019, 20 years later, Gladstones analysed further climate and rainfall data to again reaffirm that there was significant merit in legally declaring these subregions, with a note that Karridale would best be separated into north and south zones due to both soil and climate variations. "Now some 40 years of practical experience has very largely borne out the resulting predictions for grape varieties and wine styles," he wrote.

Gladstones noted in his paper that cabernet sauvignon becomes thin and vegetal in too cold a climate and loses "balance and varietal typicity" in one too warm. "Ample experience has now shown that while the whole of the Margaret River region can produce very good cabernet, it is Wilyabrup that most nearly meets the above criteria," he wrote. "More than that, its closest match is to what would be reckoned a great … season in Bordeaux… That was the major premise on which Wilyabrup was specifically selected for the first Margaret River plantings, based on the limited data then available."

Vanya Cullen notes that the consistent weather pattern and the subregion’s protection from the ocean winds that influence the north and the south are major contributes to this suitability. "Wilyabrup is right in the middle of a high and low, and it has that evenness of not being too far in the warmth of the north, or too far south," she says. "And there are the soils that Wilyabrup cabernet are famous for. Cabernet is a difficult variety to get right, and it’s a good place to grow cabernet particularly."

Whether or not Wilyabrup is regarded as better wine country than any other of the sub-regions is a moot point, though. The issue at hand is regional definition, and it’s something that Vanya Cullen believes in very strongly.

As it stands, Wilyabrup can be used on labels, and in the case of Cullen and Moss Wood, where it is proudly displayed, that is a guarantee of origin. But that is a matter of principle, with no legal requirements in place. "It’s the same with organic and biodynamic, because there’s no legislation, people can greenwash with those terms," says Cullen, who takes issue with those that use the terms like 'organic practices' while still using synthetic chemicals, stressing that certification, which is legally defined, is the only assurance. "It’s exactly the same with Wilyabrup. It’s not protected."

That means that while producers can continue to raise the quality perception and value of Wilyabrup wines through the use of the sub-regional name, it also means that other makers are free to bring in fruit from anywhere in Margaret River and still label the wine with the sub-regional moniker. That’s a potentially lucrative position for some producers, especially with blue chip wineries like Cullen and Moss Wood raising the cachet of the name.

For Gladstones, while Wilyabrup is a clear candidate for being accorded its only legally defined status, it is a move that doesn’t detract from the other zones, but rather is the start of an ongoing and very positive process. "Other 'sweet spots' for grape varieties and wine styles are progressively being identified, and more (some not yet thought of) will doubtless be identified in future," he wrote. "All these will need to be able to claim their precise and legally protected origins if the full value of the region’s wines and of its advantages can be realised."

That long-sighted view is one that Cullen agrees with, but for her it’s also a very personal journey. "It’s about honouring the land," she says, "and acknowledging the land. People can make a regional blend if they want to honour the huge region of Margaret River, which is fine, but my wine comes from Wilyabrup, and I want that honoured."

Keith & Clare

In 1979 Keith Mugford was appointed winemaker at the Moss Wood Winery by the then owners, Bill and Sandra Pannell. He arrived fresh from graduating with a Bachelor of Applied Science in Viticulture & Oenology from Roseworthy College, having done vintages at Tullochs and Orlando.

"I was born in Adelaide in 1958. Arguably one of the worst vintages ever, all around the world, so what does one buy to celebrate it? In the end, Vintage Port is about the only reliable thing! In 1960 my father moved to McLaren Vale to join the medical practice and so I grew up and went to school there", recalls Keith. 

"My association with the wine industry is something along these lines. At McLaren Vale Primary School, the majority of the children had parents who worked in the industry, at all levels. It was something quite normal for people in the region to look forward to a career in wine or vines. I didn’t have a great interest until after I finished school and the attraction was that people, who were family friends and worked with vines or wine, seemed to lead very interesting lives. They were quite cosmopolitan and many of them traveled widely and it all seemed pretty exciting to me!"  

In 1984 Keith married Clare and they leased the Moss Wood vineyard and winery, They became managing partners of the then 20 acre vineyard (on 80 acres of land) and small winery producing 3,000 cases of wine annually. During this year the sale of the property was negotiated and in July 1985 the Mugfords assumed full ownership.

"I was born in Melbourne in 1960 and moved to Perth with my parents and my much older siblings, born 1944, ‘46 and ‘47, who were '10 pound Poms' in 1963. The family had moved to Australia for a better life and found one. My first interest post school was science and agriculture and I briefly flirted with a science degree, but paid employment beckoned and I entered the work force with the New South Wales bank, as it was, for the next two years, which lead me to believe I preferred working with my own finances, to those of other people. Keen to rekindle my science studies again, I completed a Hospital based Diploma in Nursing at the Western Australian School of Nursing and nursed, at Royal Perth, Bunbury and Kalgoorlie regional hospitals, which I enjoyed very much. In 1984 Keith and I decided to marry and carry on his work at Moss Wood, which continues to be all consuming.

We have owned and run Moss Wood Winery and Vineyard, since 1985, having leased and become managing partners of it in 1984. In 2002 I completed a Graduate Diploma in Wine Business, from Adelaide University." 

The text below is taken from an article by Anna Caidan, Le sommelier, titled 'Moss Wood Portrait of Two Winemakers'

Anna Caidan meets Clare and Keith Mugford, joint winemakers and proprietors of Moss Wood in Margaret Valley Western Australia

What can you tell me about the history of Moss Wood?

Clare: 'Moss Wood came about because it was of interest to Bill and Sandra Pannell, after a paper, written by a Dr John Gladstones, who was an agronomist at the University of Western Australia about the consistency of the climate in the Margaret River region. So, his paper informed the first few people who planted in Margaret River. Moss Wood was planted in 1969, making it the second commercial vineyard in the area. It was the first winery to plant Cabernet Sauvignon in the region. By 1979, the Pannells felt that they needed a qualified winemaker, so they brought in Keith who had just graduated from Roseworthy College in South Australia, which is famous for striving winemakers and viticulturists. Bill Hardy, who was famous in wine and viticulture, suggested hiring Keith to take over as winemaker. So, they did! They interviewed Keith in Adelaide and he thought it would be a good idea to make wine in Margaret River because he could go surfing and make interesting wine! When Keith and I met, the Pannells had always talked about a partnership with Keith, as the Pannells had four young children. By that time Keith and I were thinking of getting married, and wondering what we were going to do next, Keith approached the Pannells and agreed to lease the vineyard. They went off on holiday, and after six months they came back and asked us if we would like to buy it. As we were only 24 and 26, we thought it was going to be difficult. However, they came up with a good plan, so in 1985 we bought the vineyard and we have added to plantings since; it has been an interesting learning curve for me, it was a complete career change, but we found it challenging and interesting too!'

Keith: 'We bought Moss Wood in 1985, and then by the end of the 1990s we had four children. If the four of them wanted to be involved in the business, then Moss Wood wouldn’t have been big enough to accommodate all their interest. And so we looked around, and in the end we had a discussion with John James who had established Ribbon Vale Vineyard. It was a little bit younger than Moss Wood, 1977 was its first planting, but Ribbon Vale was very similar to Moss Wood with similar vines and similar soils, slightly different plantings and the varieties were slightly different. Moss Wood was growing Semillon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Ribbon Vale was growing Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. So, John was happy, and in 2000 we bought Ribbon Vale, so in total, we now have around 23 hectares between us.'

What is your favourite step in the winemaking process?

Clare: ‘The thing that I find most interesting is the transition from juice to wine. So, pressing for red wines, and end of fermentation for white wines, because it’s the first time you see the finished wines. Tasting those grapes on the vine and then to smell and taste them as finished wine still as an infant for me is the most interesting.' 

Keith: 'The most fun and interesting part for me is picking day. So, when we pick and process the grapes, the combination of standing in the vineyard and monitoring the grapes, and then going ahead and picking them, where we have everybody involved, is really exciting!'

What is the secret to making Moss Wood wines?

Clare: 'Site. A very special site, and forty years of knowledge of growing the vines on that site and making the wines from it.' 

Keith: 'I agree with that. The location is very important. Moss Wood has its own individuality because its topography is unique and we're in a good area in Margaret River. We have a good vineyard with good soils and then if you look after that, then the grapes can carefully grow, and you take them to the winery and take care of them there. But the most important part is the vineyard itself; that’s where the quality starts.'  

What is your best memory since working at Moss Wood?

Keith: 'There are a lot of memories, most of them good!' 

Clare: 'I would agree, we have lots of great memories! My most treasured memory of working in the wine industry is sitting at Len Evan’s lunch table. He had a Monday lunch group, and we were privileged enough to sit at his lunch table in 1987, and he shared with us a bottle of 1919 La Tâche! 1919 was my mother’s birth year, so that was the thrill of my life, in wine! There were a few other thrills around that time, but that occasion was one of the biggest!'

… and the most challenging?

Keith: 'When there was damage to the vineyard. We had a terrible hailstorm in 1996 which decimated the 1997 crop. So, seeing that and trying to recover from it was probably one of the worst things. Just standing there watching this huge hailstorm come past and there was nothing we could do, just watch, bashing the vines pretty badly and when it’s over, going to see what’s left, see if there’s anything you can do, but I would definitely say that was one of the most challenging.' 

What is the story behind the labels?

Keith: 'The original Moss Wood label, which was designed in 1973 when the ownership was still under Bill and Sandra Pannell, was all about simplicity. All it had on it was who made the wines, what the vintage was, where the vineyard was located, and that was basically it. You can go down different routes with wine labels, you can choose colourful designs with pictures or you can have something relatively plain that is simple and easy to read, which is what we went for. Our favourite Bordeaux wine at the time was Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, and Pichon is the classic simple printed label with gold foil, with no doubt about who made it or where its from, so the original Moss Wood label was inspired by Pichon Lalande! Family crest, Cabernet Sauvignon 1973 and it was that simple, and that is where the label began, and it’s similar to where it is now, but we’ve had to change it quite extensively over the years because of the regulatory environment. Back in 1973 Moss Wood only sold in Australia and then it was so straightforward! It was easier to get the legally required items on the labels. Now in 2018, Moss Wood is sold all around the world and it has to comply with the regulatory environments. Moss Wood is an English name. There is a farm in Cheshire in England. Bill Pannel’s parents were regular visitors to the UK and it was a friend of his who introduced them to Moss Wood in Cheshire. Bill and Sandra liked the name so much, they wrote to the people in Cheshire to ask them if they could use the name for their vineyard. So, Moss Wood became an Australian name as well! It’s a name that people seem to like! They like the name and they like the wine, and we put that down to its simplicity, it’s easy to say, easy to remember, and Moss Wood has a pretty connotation with it, if you say it out loud, you think of trees and undergrowth, which is actually what it’s like!' 

When is the best time to drink your wines?

Clare: 'At the stage you most like wines to be! At the developmental stage, if you prefer primary fruit aromas and flavours then drink the wine young. But if you don’t, which not everybody does, then give 5, 10, 20 years! The Moss Wood cabernet has the history that can give us the confidence to say that you can give it 40 years before drinking it! Especially these days, because we seal all our wines with screw-caps, and we have the confidence that the wine’s seal is not going to fail unless it has been knocked and the seal has been broken. It won’t taint and it has been sealed with enough oxidative elements to allow the wines to age.'

The winery

Bill and Sandra Pannell purchased Moss Wood in 1969. Bill had a passion to grow the great grape varieties of France and was determined to access the best possible site. He chose the Moss Wood site for its soils and aspect. His search was informed, like that of other pioneers of the Margaret River area, by the work of Perth agronomist Dr John Gladstones (completed 1966) who favored the region for its consistent and suitable climate for growing grapes and a visit to Western Australia by Professor Harold Olmo, from the University of California at Davis in 1955.

Bill planted Cabernet vines immediately, making it the second commercial vineyard in the area and the first winery to plant Cabernet Sauvignon in the region. The vineyard produced its first vintage in 1973, which was handled in one small building and produced 250 dozen bottles of Cabernet Sauvignon.

In 1973 five acres of Semillon was planted, it was the first white variety for Moss Wood. The cuttings were imported from California. The first crop of Semillon was harvested in 1976, although a commercial release of Moss Wood Semillon was not possible until the next vintage. In 1973 five acres of Pinot Noir were planted. The Moss Wood Pinot Noir was first produced in 1977.

Although Margaret River Wine Region is internationally recognised as a premium producer of Chardonnay, Chardonnay was not planted at Moss Wood until suitable cuttings became available in Western Australia in 1976. A Moss Wood Chardonnay was not released until the 1983 vintage. The first vintage of Chardonnay, in 1980, was not released commercially and the next two crops were destroyed by adverse flowering conditions, including hail, a rare frost for the region and severe winter rain.

By 1979, the Pannells felt that they needed a qualified winemaker, so they appointed Keith Mugford, who arrived fresh from graduating with a Bachelor of Applied Science in Viticulture & Oenology from Roseworthy College, having done vintages at Tullochs and Orlando.

In 1984 Keith and Clare Mugford got married and leased the Moss Wood vineyard and winery, and became managing partners of the then 20 acre vineyard (on 80 acres of land) and small winery producing 3,000 cases of wine annually. During this year the sale of the property was negotiated and in July 1985 the Mugfords assumed full ownership. 

In 1997, Clare and Keith negotiated a 3 year contract with Ian Bell, who had worked at Moss Wood for 21 years, to buy fruit from his family's Glenmore property. Ian had planted Cabernet Sauvignon seven years earlier, in 1990, on the land, which is located 10kms north of Moss Wood in the Yallingup sub-region of Margaret River. In 1998, the first wine was released as the Moss Wood 'Glenmore Vineyard' Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine was renamed 'Amy's Vineyard' with the 2003 vintage, in honour of Ian's grandmother, Amy Beers, who owned the land. Subsequently, the wine became 'Amy's Blend' when the wine became a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Malbec, and then simply 'Amy's', the name used today.

By the commencement of the 2000 vintage, a new winery building was added to process the expanded production. The year 2000 also saw the purchase of the Ribbon Vale vineyard, which is located 1.6km south of the Moss Wood vineyard within the Wilyabrup sub-region. The Ribbon Vale vines were planted between 1977 and 1982. The addition of the new vineyard introduced Moss Wood to Sauvignon Blanc and led to the first blended Semillon Sauvignon Blanc wine being made. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc completed the new stable.

Moss Wood today is regarded as one of the best wineries in the Margaret River region and their Cabernet Sauvignon is one of Australia's iconic wines and deservedly fits in the Exceptional category of Langton's Classification of Australian Wine. In 2019, Keith and Clare Mugford received the prestigious Jack Mann Memorial Medal in recognition of their significant contribution to the Western Australian wine industry.

Moss Wood Vineyard

Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon
   Old vines, dry-grown, low yielding vineyard
   Vines planted in 1969
   Houghton clone
   Hand plunging in open fermenters 3-4 times per day
   28 months ageing in 225 litre, French oak barrels, 25% new

Moss Wood Chardonnay
   Old vines, dry-grown, low yielding vineyard
   Vines planted 1976
   Mendosa and Dijon clones
   Whole bunch pressed and barrel fermented
   18 months aging in 225 litre French oak barrels, 50% new
   Full malolactic fermentation

Moss Wood Semillon
   Old vines, dry-grown, low yielding vineyard
   Vines planted in 1973
   Fermented in stainless steel tanks
   Neutral yeast allowing full expression of varietal characteristics

Moss Wood Pinot Noir
   Old vines, dry-grown, low yielding vineyard
   Vines planted 1973
   Oldest Pinot Noir vineyard in Margaret River
   Cold soaked on skins prior to fermentation
   Hand plunging 3 to 4 times a day
   18 months aging in 225 litre French oak barrels, 33% new