O'Leary Walker Polish Hill River Riesling 2024

In 2000, with over 35 years of experience making wine with some of Australia's biggest wine companies, long-time friends David O'Leary and Nick Walker established O'Leary Walker Wines. Not surprisingly, it didn't take long for them to establish a formidable reputation, particularly for their superb Polish Hill River and Watervale Rieslings and a range of classic Clare Valley Shiraz.  

"A seductive and detailed minerally vibe ripples through the mid-palate stitching it together. Green apples, apple sours, a whisper of grapefruit and not to mention that glorious citrusy and pithy tang that clutches to a long and fabulous finish, this is classy stuff and I could neck gallons of it. Drink now to embrace its freshness but it will age gracefully if that is your thing."  Steve Leszczynski

The Polish Hill fruit is from the Molloy and Martin and Joan Smith vineyards, which are virtually next to each other in Polish Hill River. 2010 marked the first year of NASAA Organic Certification for these vineyards, although the vines have been farmed organically since their planting in the 1970s. The soils are grey loam over sandstone and slate, and it is the slate of Polish Hill River, as opposed to the limestone of Watervale, that gives rise to the point of difference between the two styles. Much of the topsoil is littered with rock and the vines need to be extremely tough to sustain growth and produce high quality fruit. 

"Pale straw with green hues. Lifted aromas of perfume, musk, wet slate, citrus blossoms, crushed oyster shells. Intense and elegant on the palate, with very fine structure. Mid-palate fruit richness, balanced by taut acid and a graceful, lingering finish. We love to enjoy this Riesling while fresh, however it also has excellent cellaring potential - up to 20 years."  O'Leary Walker

Expert reviews

"The twin to the Watervale, this Polish Hill River Riesling, from the same stellar vintage, is spectacular stuff and brilliant buying. Trout stream clear, this is all riverstones, talc, florals, limes, spices, oystershell notes, lemon blossoms and grapefruit pith. Good intensity and a lingering, extremely long, finish, but along the way, impeccable balance and crunchy acidity. A Riesling for the ages. Twenty plus years. Cellar as much as your cellar can hold."  Ken Gargett, Wine Pilot - 97 points

"This excellent Polish Hill River Riesling from O'Leary Walker is always a consistently high performer. The quality of Riesling in Australia is awesome and you ought to get this label on your radar. Sourced from an organic vineyard, pretty white flowers, musk and lavender, lemon-lime splice isn't far from the dancefloor either. A seductive and detailed minerally vibe ripples through the mid-palate stitching it together. Green apples, apple sours, a whisper of grapefruit and not to mention that glorious citrusy and pithy tang that clutches to a long and fabulous finish, this is classy stuff and I could neck gallons of it. Drink now to embrace its freshness but it will age gracefully if that is your thing."  Steve Leszczynski, Qwine - 95 points

"The opposite in personality to Watervale Riesling, Polish Hill is all about Riesling energy and exuberance. Organically grown, for those wondering, Polish Hill arrives all bright and perky but underneath the citrussy exterior there is great concentration of fruit flavour. A drinker could get lost in the depths of that gorgeous middle palate such is the appeal of spiced apple with grapefruit, lemon, lime and citrus zest. Polish Hill offers a mix of spice and citrus all rolled tightly into one super perky, fresh, young Riesling. Another ripper from this top Clare Valley sub-region. Drink 2024-2034."  Jeni Port, Wine Pilot – 95 points

"The label touts 'organic grown and made'. A fresh and juicy, distinctly minerally style of riesling. It opens with scents of green apple, lemon verbena, lemongrass and fresh dill. The palate is more citrus orientated, but in a softer framework, with mandarin and lime dashed with a touch of grapefruit – refreshing for sure. A sense of saline or brine-like mineral character washes through, too. An ultra-pleasing, light and vibrant expression. Drink by 2030."  Mike Bennie, Halliday Wine Companion - 93 points and Special Value Wine  ★ 

"Really youthful, bright and lively in appearance. Delicate and lifted aromas of lime leaf, lemon pith, slate, mineral and bath salts. Fine and focused in flavour, there’s a core of just-ripe, pithy white stone-fruit, mandarin, grapefruit pith and talc. Quite generous and mouth-filling, with plenty of flesh and texture Drink 2024-2034."  Aaron Brasher, The Real Review - 93 points

Awards

Special Value Wine – Halliday Wine Companion  ★ 

The vineyards

Clare Valley Vineyards

The Clare Valley has a world-renowned reputation for producing elegant Rieslings. We source our fruit from two sub-regions within the Clare Valley, Watervale and the Polish Hill River Valley. The Watervale fruit is from the vineyard of Neil and Heather Grace, which is hand pruned and hand picked. With its classic red loam over limestone soil, the vines have a source of moisture from the limestone to ensure their health through the summer months.

The Polish Hill Valley fruit is from two vineyards which are virtually next-door to each other. Martin and Joan Smith's vineyard is now farmed biodynamically and across the Road is the Molloy's vineyard both of which are excellent examples of the quality this sub-region can produce. The soils are characterized by grey loam over sandstone and slate. The topsoils are littered with rock and shales of slate. The vines are tough to survive in these harsh soils but their fruit bears the characteristics of elegance, finesse and intensity, always with a hint of beautiful chalky bath powder!

Despite only being 9 kilometers from the Watervale sub-region, The Polish Hill River region is quite a bit cooler and typically the fruit ripens 2-3 weeks later. It is the slate of the Polish Hill River as distinct from the limestone of Watervale that creates the differences between the wines.

McLaren Vale Vineyard

We source Shiraz from a 50 plus year old vineyard called “Shadels” at McLaren Vale, owned by Angelo Maglieri and his Family. Angelo and Nick Walker go way back to the early eighties when Nick was a young winemaker at Krondorf, purchasing fruit from these classic vineyards. This relationship has been almost continuous for 30 years! When we first started O'Leary Walker Wines, we needed excellent fruit not just “run of the mill” quality. This vineyard had just come out of contract with Penfolds and was offered to us via our good relationship with Angelo. The soils are shallow loam over ironstone, quite rocky sub soils, well drained and tough. This vineyard has been incorporated in our blend since day one and has the great licorice, chocolate power that is the hallmark of McLaren Vale Shiraz, enhancing the inky, “building block” wines of the Clare Valley.

Adelaide Hills Vineyards

Fruit for our Adelaide Hills Wines is sourced from David and Sue Cherry's (nee O'Leary) Adelaide Hills vineyard and from the adjoining vineyard of Mark and Louise O'Leary, which is the original “Wyebo” property that was purchased by David's Grandfather in 1912. This site was planted in 1990 and selected on the basis of its soil structure, which has large quartz and slate running throughout the sub soils. With a gently sloping, North Easterly aspect, enhanced by elevation, ancient soils and weather patterns, characteristic influences from the Mt Lofty Ranges, this vineyard is a valuable asset to the winemaking at O'Leary Walker.

The Adelaide Hills with its cool climate and long, dry and even ripening season allows the vines to develop maximum varietal characters, producing intensely flavoursome fruit. The Adelaide Hills produces some of Australia's most elegant Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir wines.

About the winery

Nick Walker and David O'Leary

Prior to establishing O'Leary Walker Wines in 2000, long-time friends David O'Leary and Nick Walker spent twenty-plus vintages working for some of Australia's biggest winemaking companies such as Hardy's and Mildara Blass, and were involved in labels like Annies Lane, Chateau Reynella, Mildara, Krondorf and Yellowglen. The larger companies provided fantastic learning environments and they were privileged to have worked with some of the industry's greats.

The pair established O'Leary Walker Wines with the aim of producing small batches of carefully handcrafted wine from some of the best vineyard sites in South Australia. Initially their principal focus was on the Clare Valley and, not surprisingly, it didn't take long for them to establish a formidable reputation, particularly for their superb Polish Hill River and Watervale Rieslings and a range of classic Clare Valley Shiraz. Thereafter their attention swung to the Adelaide Hills where they now have 35ha of chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir, shiraz, sauvignon blanc and merlot. The vineyards were certified organic in 2013.

David O'Leary

David began his career in 1977 with the Stanley Wine Company in the Clare Valley, doing a vintage as a lab assistant under Brian Barry. It was during this time that David was introduced to Clare Valley Rieslings, sparking a lifelong passion to achieve greatness with this variety.

David then spent a year with Petaluma and completed a vintage in Tasmania working for Heemskerk Wines before joining Chateau Reynella in 1981. This same year, he also graduated from Roseworthy Agricultural College. In September 1982, Thomas Hardy and Sons purchased Chateau Reynella and David was charged with managing juice separation in Padthaway, initiating the exhausting trend of two vintages a year between Waikerie and Padthaway.

David was appointed group red winemaker for Hardy's in 1990 and held that role until joining Mildara Blass in 1994. At Mildara Blass, he held senior winemaking roles at Quelltaller Estate in the Clare Valley where he launched Annie's Lane, and at the Mildara Coonawarra-based Jamieson's Run winery. During his time with Hardy's and Mildara Blass, he also made wine in France and California, furthering his knowledge of the great wines and signature styles of the regions.

David has achieved considerable milestones in his career; a Jimmy Watson Trophy in 1988 and twice International Red Winemaker of the Year (1992 and 1994) sit proudly along with numerous other trophies and gold medals on his mantle.

David's goals remain unchanged: he simply wants to make great wine.

Nick Walker

Nick graduated from Roseworthy Agricultural College in 1982 and then followed the footsteps of his father and grandfather to become a third generation winemaker.

Nick's father Norm Walker was Managing Director at Seaview Champagne Cellars for over 22 years. Norm, along with his father Hurtle, has given over 100 years to the winemaking industry, in particular sparkling wine. Nick Walker and David O'Leary honour this family winemaking tradition by naming the O'Leary Walker Sparkling Pinot Noir Chardonnay the 'Hurtle', in recognition of Nick's grandfather and father's achievements.

In 1983 Nick joined the Burge and Wilson team at Krondorf Wines as an assistant winemaker. During this time, he was instrumental in making some of the great Eden Valley Rieslings of the time and had enormous success on the show circuit with his wines.

Nick undertook sparkling winemaking duties in 1998-1999 at Yellowglen and was winemaker and manager at Yarra Ridge in 2000. Overall, he spent over 14 years with the Mildara Blass group, responsible for brands including Krondorf, Yellowglen Sparkling wines, Yarra Ridge, Baileys and St Huberts.

In November 1999, Nick joined forces with good friend David O'Leary to create O'Leary Walker Wines.

His philosophy is pretty simple: make the best wines possible from the best vineyard sites - and leave a little time for fishing.