O'Leary Walker Watervale Riesling 2022

In 2000, with over 35 years of experience making wine with some of Australia's biggest wine companies, long-time friends David O'Leary and Nick Walker established O'Leary Walker Wines. Not surprisingly, it didn't take long for them to establish a formidable reputation, particularly for their superb Polish Hill River and Watervale Rieslings and a range of classic Clare Valley Shiraz.  

"2022 was a fabulous Riesling year in Clare and this wine has captured every last nuance of the year and region to perfection. Has a bright purity from the first hit on the nose through to the wonderful palate. The nose has a strong citrus character with a subtle spiciness. The natural acidity ensures its length now and will contribute to its great cellaring potential. A cracking wine that continues to offer remarkable value for money."  Ray Jordan

The Watervale fruit is from the vineyard of Neil and Heather Grace, a dry grown vineyard (meaning it relies only on natural rainfall) which is hand pruned and hand picked. With its classic red loam over limestone soil, the vines have a source of moisture from the limestone to ensure their health through the summer months.

"Pale lemon. Lifted kaffir lime aromas, citrus blossoms and orange zest with hints of wild fennel. The fine yet powerful palate has a lingering finish and balanced natural acid line. Drink now or cellar for 15-20 years. Fruit is harvested by hand, de-stemmed and crushed, then gently pressed, resulting in a fine free-run cut and a pressings component which are handled separately. The free-run juice is chilled to preserve the vineyard expression and purity of fruit. Once the juice has settled, it is racked off solids and seeded with yeast. A cool, temperature-controlled fermentation is carried out over 10-14 days."  O'Leary Walker 

Expert reviews

"Such an exquisite wine. Dave O'Leary compares 2022 with the legendary vintage of 2002 (what a surfeit of riches we've had with the 22s following the wonderful 2021s) and on the evidence of this wine, no argument from me. The dry grown vineyard is classic Watervale, red loam over limestone with a westerly aspect. The hand-harvested fruit is de-stemmed, crushed and gently pressed. A component of the pressings is incorporated with the free-run juice, which is chilled after the pressing. The juice is settled, racked and yeast added. Fermentation is kept cool and takes around ten to fourteen days. Beautifully perfumed, this is so fragrant – an utterly magical nose. The wine seems so fragile but there is coiled power lurking below. Seamless, balanced, focused, we have notes of lemons and limes, florals and glacéd fruit. Gentle persistence and the palate really is incredibly long. It is so beguiling now that cellaring will be difficult but it will easily handle ten to twenty years and improve over that time. A brilliant Riesling. This is $25. Seriously? Is this the greatest bargain to be found anywhere in the world? Anyone without a case or two in the cellar is not serious about wine. Drink: 2022-2042."  Ken Gargett, Wine Pilot - 98 points

"O'Leary Walker's Watervale Riesling is aromatic, intense, brisk and pure. Which is exactly what we expect and want from the Watervale sub-region, one of the Clare Valley's most distinctive and undeniably classic regions. Sets a highly fragrant tone from the outset with spring blossom, jasmine, talc, lemon sorbet and lime zest aromas. A fabulous, seamless wine with no harsh edges, only a glorious flow through the mouth dripping in lime cordial, grapefruit pith, talc and a spray of gentle spice. Intensity rises assisted by a clean slate-minerality before closing with a sour lemon drop tang. Too often, Watervale riesling is viewed – price-wise and quality-wise – as somehow the junior partner to its Polish Hill River sibling. Not this time round. In an outstanding vintage such as 2022, both stand tall. Drink: 2022-2034."  Jeni Port, Wine Pilot – 96 points

"2022 was a fabulous Riesling year in Clare and this wine has captured every last nuance of the year and region to perfection. Has a bright purity from the first hit on the nose through to the wonderful palate. The nose has a strong citrus character with a subtle spiciness. The natural acidity ensures its length now and will contribute to its great cellaring potential. A cracking wine that continues to offer remarkable value for money. Drink: 2022-2042."  Ray Jordan, Wine Pilot – 95 points

The vineyards

Clare Valley Vineyards

The Clare Valley has a world-renowned reputation for producing elegant Rieslings. We source our fruit from two sub-regions within the Clare Valley, Watervale and the Polish Hill River Valley. The Watervale fruit is from the vineyard of Neil and Heather Grace, which is hand pruned and hand picked. With its classic red loam over limestone soil, the vines have a source of moisture from the limestone to ensure their health through the summer months.

The Polish Hill Valley fruit is from two vineyards which are virtually next-door to each other. Martin and Joan Smith's vineyard is now farmed biodynamically and across the Road is the Molloy's vineyard both of which are excellent examples of the quality this sub-region can produce. The soils are characterized by grey loam over sandstone and slate. The topsoils are littered with rock and shales of slate. The vines are tough to survive in these harsh soils but their fruit bears the characteristics of elegance, finesse and intensity, always with a hint of beautiful chalky bath powder!

Despite only being 9 kilometers from the Watervale sub-region, The Polish Hill River region is quite a bit cooler and typically the fruit ripens 2-3 weeks later. It is the slate of the Polish Hill River as distinct from the limestone of Watervale that creates the differences between the wines.

McLaren Vale Vineyard

We source Shiraz from a 50 plus year old vineyard called "Shadels” at McLaren Vale, owned by Angelo Maglieri and his Family. Angelo and Nick Walker go way back to the early eighties when Nick was a young winemaker at Krondorf, purchasing fruit from these classic vineyards. This relationship has been almost continuous for 30 years! When we first started O'Leary Walker Wines, we needed excellent fruit not just "run of the mill” quality. This vineyard had just come out of contract with Penfolds and was offered to us via our good relationship with Angelo. The soils are shallow loam over ironstone, quite rocky sub soils, well drained and tough. This vineyard has been incorporated in our blend since day one and has the great licorice, chocolate power that is the hallmark of McLaren Vale Shiraz, enhancing the inky, "building block” wines of the Clare Valley.

Adelaide Hills Vineyards

Fruit for our Adelaide Hills Wines is sourced from David and Sue Cherry's (nee O'Leary) Adelaide Hills vineyard and from the adjoining vineyard of Mark and Louise O'Leary, which is the original "Wyebo” property that was purchased by David's Grandfather in 1912. This site was planted in 1990 and selected on the basis of its soil structure, which has large quartz and slate running throughout the sub soils. With a gently sloping, North Easterly aspect, enhanced by elevation, ancient soils and weather patterns, characteristic influences from the Mt Lofty Ranges, this vineyard is a valuable asset to the winemaking at O'Leary Walker.

The Adelaide Hills with its cool climate and long, dry and even ripening season allows the vines to develop maximum varietal characters, producing intensely flavoursome fruit. The Adelaide Hills produces some of Australia's most elegant Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir wines.

About the winery

Nick Walker and David O'Leary

Prior to establishing O'Leary Walker Wines in 2000, long-time friends David O'Leary and Nick Walker spent twenty-plus vintages working for some of Australia's biggest winemaking companies such as Hardy's and Mildara Blass, and were involved in labels like Annies Lane, Chateau Reynella, Mildara, Krondorf and Yellowglen. The larger companies provided fantastic learning environments and they were privileged to have worked with some of the industry's greats.

The pair established O'Leary Walker Wines with the aim of producing small batches of carefully handcrafted wine from some of the best vineyard sites in South Australia. Initially their principal focus was on the Clare Valley and, not surprisingly, it didn't take long for them to establish a formidable reputation, particularly for their superb Polish Hill River and Watervale Rieslings and a range of classic Clare Valley Shiraz. Thereafter their attention swung to the Adelaide Hills where they now have 35ha of chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir, shiraz, sauvignon blanc and merlot. The vineyards were certified organic in 2013.

David O'Leary

David began his career in 1977 with the Stanley Wine Company in the Clare Valley, doing a vintage as a lab assistant under Brian Barry. It was during this time that David was introduced to Clare Valley Rieslings, sparking a lifelong passion to achieve greatness with this variety.

David then spent a year with Petaluma and completed a vintage in Tasmania working for Heemskerk Wines before joining Chateau Reynella in 1981. This same year, he also graduated from Roseworthy Agricultural College. In September 1982, Thomas Hardy and Sons purchased Chateau Reynella and David was charged with managing juice separation in Padthaway, initiating the exhausting trend of two vintages a year between Waikerie and Padthaway.

David was appointed group red winemaker for Hardy's in 1990 and held that role until joining Mildara Blass in 1994. At Mildara Blass, he held senior winemaking roles at Quelltaller Estate in the Clare Valley where he launched Annie's Lane, and at the Mildara Coonawarra-based Jamieson's Run winery. During his time with Hardy's and Mildara Blass, he also made wine in France and California, furthering his knowledge of the great wines and signature styles of the regions.

David has achieved considerable milestones in his career; a Jimmy Watson Trophy in 1988 and twice International Red Winemaker of the Year (1992 and 1994) sit proudly along with numerous other trophies and gold medals on his mantle.

David's goals remain unchanged: he simply wants to make great wine.

Nick Walker

Nick graduated from Roseworthy Agricultural College in 1982 and then followed the footsteps of his father and grandfather to become a third generation winemaker.

Nick's father Norm Walker was Managing Director at Seaview Champagne Cellars for over 22 years. Norm, along with his father Hurtle, has given over 100 years to the winemaking industry, in particular sparkling wine. Nick Walker and David O'Leary honour this family winemaking tradition by naming the O'Leary Walker Sparkling Pinot Noir Chardonnay the 'Hurtle', in recognition of Nick's grandfather and father's achievements.

In 1983 Nick joined the Burge and Wilson team at Krondorf Wines as an assistant winemaker. During this time, he was instrumental in making some of the great Eden Valley Rieslings of the time and had enormous success on the show circuit with his wines.

Nick undertook sparkling winemaking duties in 1998-1999 at Yellowglen and was winemaker and manager at Yarra Ridge in 2000. Overall, he spent over 14 years with the Mildara Blass group, responsible for brands including Krondorf, Yellowglen Sparkling wines, Yarra Ridge, Baileys and St Huberts.

In November 1999, Nick joined forces with good friend David O'Leary to create O'Leary Walker Wines.

His philosophy is pretty simple: make the best wines possible from the best vineyard sites - and leave a little time for fishing.