Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz 2021
Style: Red Wine
Variety: Shiraz
Closure: Screwcap
Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz 2021
Camberwell
Burke Road
Camberwell VIC 3124
Australia
Critic Score: 97
Alcohol: 14.5%
Size: 750 ml
Drink by: 2040
Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz is the archetypal warm climate Australian shiraz - ripe, robust and generously flavoured. First made in 1959, Bin 28 is named after the famous Barossa Valley Kalimna vineyard purchased by Penfolds in 1945 and from which the wine was originally sourced. Today, Kalimna Bin 28 is a multi-region, multi-vineyard blend, with the Barossa Valley always well represented.
"Great concerntration and depth here, showing bold berry fruits, a bit of ripe black cherry, and then some finegrained tannins with a twist of sea salt on the finish. Fantastic depth, lots of ripe fruit, but also a sense of balance, with savoury in the mix as well as sweetness. Very impressive." Jamie Goode
The 2021 Bin 28 Shiraz was sourced from vineyards in McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Padthaway, Wrattonbully and Clare Valley. The wine was matured for 12 months in American oak hogsheads, 7% new.
"A classic Penfolds aromatic profile, an exemplar of House Style. Very generous and lifted aromatics. Sweet and savoury notes compete for attention. Interestingly, the savoury characters narrowly win the arm wrestle. A fascinating concoction of umami notes: roast meat pan-scrapings, dark soy sauce, sopressa salami. Chinese char sui pork and five spiced quail. Dried herbs: rosemary/oregano. There is an abundance of dark, brooding shiraz fruit with ripe plumbs and blackberries to the fore. Floral notes of potpourri and violets provide lift. Dry fermented black tea, ground allspice and toasted ajwain seeds provide an exotic allure. The palate is as advertised! Full-bodied, rich and generous. Lovely mocha, chocolate, espresso flavours. The confectioner provides black jellybean, licorice, chocolate truffles and rum and raisin. Very generous fruits fill an ample, plush mid-palate. A trip to the German cake shop: black forest cake, strudel, crème anglaise. Toasted fennel seeds and fresh tarragon. The acidity is juicy and energetic. Bold, attentive, structural graphite-like tannins hold the package together. The oak is completely absorbed, allowing the fruit to shine. The finish is long and fine, with a taught shale, mineral-like impression that lingers forever. Peak drinking: Now – 2050." Penfolds
Expert reviews
"Medium deep crimson. Classical blackberry, dark chocolate, mocha aromas with roasted walnut, spice/ aniseed notes. Richly concentrated and velvety textured wine with ample blackberry, praline flavours, fine dense chocolaty firm tannins and underlying roasted walnut savoury notes, Finishes claret firm with aniseed notes and persistent seductive sweet fruits. Exemplifies the art of blending. Delicious and timeless Australian style. One of the best ever Bin 28 vintages." Andrew Caillard MW - 97 points
"This is quite a firm statement of this classic Penfolds shiraz. Comes from a number of different regions and captures the character and style that is warm climate shiraz in Australia. Dark chocolate and black pudding with a plummy blackcurrant richness. The palate shows firm grainy tannins with the oak perfectly weighted. The assertive tannins with a minerally graphite edge really hold the whole deal together to promote that very long finish." Ray Jordan - 96 points
"Deep-tinted red that could double as ink. Delicately aromatic with layers of flavour evident of the palate.Cassis, dark chocolate/mocha/coffee, dried herbs/thyme/anise, and a suggestion of mineral characters. Herbs and spices add extra intrigue. This wine massively over-delivers at this price point. It's a poor man's Bin 389. Accessible now but with masses of cellaring potential. Drink: 2023–2040." Bob Campbell, The Real Review - 95 points
"Great concerntration and depth here, showing bold berry fruits, a bit of ripe black cherry, and then some finegrained tannins with a twist of sea salt on the finish. Fantastic depth, lots of ripe fruit, but also a sense of balance, with savoury in the mix as well as sweetness. Very impressive." Jamie Goode - 95 points
"Good deep colour; aromas of black fruits and tar, graphite, ironstone, nutmeg and star anise, the palate firmly, boldly structured and emphatic, with notes of nutmeg again and assorted brown spices mingling with the black fruit flavours. Very approachable already but will obviously also age well. (McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Padthaway, Wrattonbully, Clare Valley). Drink: 2023-2037." Huon Hooke, The Real Review - 93 points
"A McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Padthaway, Wrattonbully and Clare Valley sourced shiraz matured in American oak (7% new) for 12 months. Deep crimson in the glass, the wine initially comes across a little shy, showing itself in the traditional Penfolds 'house style' after some time in the glass. Plentiful black and plummy fruit depth with hints of spice, roasting meats, soy sauce, charcuterie, Old Jamaica chocolate, licorice and earth. Tenses somewhat on the medium-length finish. Drink 2023-2028" Dave Brookes, Halliday Wine Companion - 92 points
"The type of full-weighted Australian shiraz that many expect. While it could be argued that that the style is a bit fusty, what cannot be denied is the moreish feel. Iodine, clove and boysenberry billow toward a nourishing and forceful finish and the reality is that this cuvee, as with so many in the stable, is reliable and delicious. Sure, the oak is a bit fuzzy, but there is plenty to like. Drink or hold." Ned Goodwin MW, Jamessuckling.com - 92 points
"The 2021 Bin 28 Shiraz hails from five regions: McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Padthaway, Wrattonbully and Clare Valley. The wine matured for 12 months in American oak (7% new), and this really amplifies the sweet fruit characters in the mouth. It's already nicely integrated aromatically, despite being poured and opened in the same instance (i.e., no preparation prior to tasting), and is redolent with red and purple berry fruit. Spicy, full throttle and loads of tannin in the mouth. Nicely chewy. The first vintage of this wine was in 1959. 14.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. Drink 2023 - 2035." Erin Larkin, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate - 92 points
Peter Gago
The following text is taken from an article by Ken Gargett in Quill & Pad, https://quillandpad.com
Peter Gago has what many people in the wine world think is the best job on the planet. He is chief winemaker for Penfolds, based in South Australia and one of Australia’s oldest wine producers.
Max Schubert created Grange with the experimental first wine, the 1951, after he returned from Bordeaux and wanted to establish an Aussie First Growth. The story of Grange has been told many times, and as fascinating as it is I won’t rehash it again. Schubert ruled at Penfolds right through to the 1976 vintage, when he handed the reins to Don Ditter. Ditter made the wines right through to the 1986 vintage when John Duval stepped up. Duval was chief winemaker until the 2002 vintage, when he left to do his own thing, very successfully.
Since that time, Peter Gago has been the chief winemaker. It should be noted that although the role of chief winemaker at Penfolds will always be inextricably linked with Grange, there are a great many other wines in the portfolio for which this position assumes ultimate responsibility.
Alongside the winemaking, in which he is still heavily involved, a usual week in non-Covid times sees Gago flying around the world to tastings, dinners, events, festivals, and promotions. I suspect that only David Attenborough (outside of pilots and crew) has racked up more flying miles. I remember seeing him one day when he seemed even more pleased with the world than usual. Turns out he’d just run into his wife, Gail, now retired but a long-term and highly regarded member of the South Australian parliament, at the airport. Gago had not been aware that they would both be in the same country that week, let alone cross paths, such is his usual peripatetic lifestyle.
Gago has friends and admirers all around the globe, from the rich and famous to young, aspiring wine lovers, and will spend time talking to them all. I suspect that if he wanted to start dropping names, the din would reverberate for days, but you could not find a humbler man. Gago is a serious music buff and you’d be amazed at the number of rock stars who revere him, much in the way their fans might do for them (for instance, after crawling over broken glass to get a ticket to a Bruce Springsteen concert I saw Gago sitting in prime seats with Springsteen’s family, after which they went for dinner and knocked off a few bottles of Grange).
Gago is probably as close to a rock star himself in the world of wine, although perhaps more modest rather than flamboyant. And I have no idea if he can sing.
The thing that most amazes me with Gago is that every time you talk to him, he is bubbling with genuine enthusiasm, not just for Grange but for all his wines. He just loves what he is doing. One gets the feeling that every morning he wakes up and pinches himself to make sure it is real.
Among his many attributes, Gago has the gift of the gab like few others. Only once have I ever seen him lost for words and caught off guard. Many years ago, at the annual release – held in a very fancy location near the shores of Sydney Harbor; it is always a fancy location somewhere and also always includes great champagne to kick off the day as Gago is fanatical about the world’s best bubbles – the then current chairman or CEO of whichever corporate entity was then the owner of Penfolds attended the day. Forgive me for my failure to remember just where the corporate snakes and ladders left Penfolds that day and for failing to remember the relevant gentleman’s name. He had only been appointed as a temporary executive while the search for a more permanent one was ongoing, but unlike any of the CEOs before and after, this man had a genuine interest and came to a couple of tastings to learn.
Anyway, as we sipped our champagne on the lawns overlooking Sydney Harbor and chatted, our friend suddenly posed a question to Gago. He had been meaning to ask, he said, just how much Grange the company made. There were five or six writers in this little group and suddenly, every single one of us had pad and pen poised. The production of Grange is a national secret that is not to be disclosed under pain of death (general consensus puts it at, depending on the vintage, between 5,000 and 15,000 cases, with most releases in the mid range, but this is pure speculation).
Gago was at a loss. The boss of bosses had just asked him a direct question and Gago is far too polite not to answer but knew he couldn’t give that information out in public. He managed a fair bit of mumbling and generalizations and I think he suggested they meet later. Pads and pens all went back into bags, and we could not help grinning while Gago looked like he’d just swallowed a bad oyster.
Gago was born in England in 1957, but his family moved to Melbourne when he was only six years of age. Originally a math teacher (teaching is still a passion), he undertook a science degree at the University of Melbourne and then attended Roseworthy College, a famous Australian winemaking college, graduating as Dux (the highest ranking academic performance -ed), which will surprise no one.
In 1989 he joined Penfolds as a sparkling winemaker, working with Ed Carr, who has established a career in sparkling wine (now with Arras) as successful as Gago’s is with table wines. He moved to reds and quickly rose through the ranks until succeeding Duval in 2002. In the 73 years since Schubert was first appointed, Gago is only the fourth chief winemaker.
During his tenure, he has stacked up an extraordinary array of bling, as has Penfolds under his stewardship (Gago heads a team of eight winemakers for table wines and a couple more for fortifieds). He has several “Winemaker of the Year” awards from different entities and publications, both from Australia and abroad, but the accolades go well beyond that.
In 2017, in what is termed “the Queen’s Birthday Honors List,” he was awarded the highly prestigious Companion of the Order of Australia (AC) for service to the wine industry. For non-Aussies, that is a big one! A year later, he received an honorary doctorate from the University of South Australia and named the Great Wine Capitals Ambassador for South Australia.
Very recently, Gago was awarded perhaps the most prestigious honor of all in the wine world: admission to the Decanter Hall of Fame (previously they honored the Decanter Man – or Woman – of the Year, but that changed). Decanter is a highly respected English wine magazine that established its hall of fame in 1984 with Serge Hochar from Château Musar in Lebanon the first recipient. There is only a single addition per year. Gago is the fourth Australian following Max Schubert in 1988, Len Evans in 1997, and Brian Croser in 2004. That two of the four chief winemakers from a single producer have made this list (Schubert and Gago) is unprecedented but shows just where Penfolds sits in the pantheon of wine producers around the globe.
And should you still remain unconvinced then take a moment to look at some of the names Gago has joined: Parker, Spurrier, Tchelistcheff, Robinson, Moueix, de Villaine, Antinori, Lichine, Gaja, Symington, Loosen, Guigal, Torres, Draper, Peynaud, Mondavi, and so many more. There is no question that the name Peter Gago sits very comfortably alongside them all.
What is most important is that across the board the Penfolds wines have never been better, and while it is a team effort, in the end we can thank Gago.
About the winery
After the success of early sherries and fortified wines, founders Dr Christopher and Mary Penfold planted the vine cuttings they had carried on their voyage over to Australia. In 1844 the fledging vineyard was officially established as the Penfolds wine company at Magill Estate.
As the company grew, so too did Dr Penfold's medical reputation, leaving much of the running of the winery to Mary Penfold. Early forays into Clarets and Rieslings proved increasingly popular, and on Christopher's death in 1870, Mary assumed total responsibility for the winery. Mary's reign at the helm of Penfolds saw years of determination and endeavour.
By the time Mary Penfold retired in 1884 (ceding management to her daughter, Georgina) Penfolds was producing 1/3 of all South Australia's wine. She'd set an agenda that continues today, experimenting with new methods in wine production. By Mary's death in 1896, the Penfolds legacy was well on its way to fruition. By 1907, Penfolds had become South Australia's largest winery.
In 1948, history was made again as Max Schubert became the company's first Chief Winemaker. A loyal company man and true innovator, Schubert would propel Penfolds onto the global stage with his experimentation of long-lasting wines - the creation of Penfolds Grange in the 1950s.
In 1959 (while Schubert was perfecting his Grange experiment in secret), the tradition of ‘bin wines' began. The first, a Shiraz wine with the grapes of the company's own Barossa Valley vineyards was simply named after the storage area of the cellars where it is aged. And so Kalimna Bin 28 becomes the first official Penfolds Bin number wine.
In 1960, the Penfolds board instructed Max Schubert to officially re-start production on Grange. His determination and the quality of the aged wine had won them over.
Soon, the medals began flowing and Grange quickly became one of the most revered wines around the world. In 1988 Schubert was named Decanter Magazine's Man of the Year, and on the 50th anniversary of its birth, Penfolds Grange was given a heritage listing in South Australia.
Despite great success, Penfolds never rests on its laurels. In 2012 Penfolds released its most innovative project to date - 12 handcrafted ampoules of the rare 2004 Kalimna Block Cabernet Sauvignon.
Two years later, Penfolds celebrated the 170th anniversary – having just picked up a perfect score of 100 for the 2008 Grange in two of the world's most influential wine magazines. Today, Penfolds continues to hold dear the philosophies and legends – ‘1844 to evermore!'.
South Australia
South Australian is responsible for more than half the production of all Australian wine. It is home to more than 900 wineries across 18 wine regions. The regions are Adelaide Hills, Adelaide Plains, Barossa Valley, Clare Valley, Coonawarra, Currency Creek, Eden Valley, Kangaroo Island, Langhorne Creek, McLaren Vale, Mount Benson, Mount Gambier, Padthaway, Riverland, Robe, Southern Fleurieu, Southern Flinders Ranges and Wrattonbully.
Many of the well-known names in the South Australian wine industry established their first vineyards in the late 1830s and early 1840s. The first vines in McLaren Vale were planted at Reynella in 1839 and Penfold's established Magill Estate on the outskirts of Adelaide in 1844.
South Australia has a vast diversity in geography and climate which allows the State to be able to produce a range of grape varieties - from cool climate Riesling in the Clare and Eden Vallies to the big, full bodied Shiraz wines of the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale. Two of Australia's best-known wines, Penfolds Grange and Henschke Hill of Grace, are produced here. There is much to discover in South Australia for the wine lover.