Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Style: Red Wine
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon
Closure: Cork
Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
Camberwell
Burke Road
Camberwell VIC 3124
Australia
Producer: Penfolds
Country: Australia
Region: Multi Regional SA
Vintage: 2012
Critic Score: 98
Alcohol: 14.5%
Size: 750 ml
Drink by: 2055
Penfolds Rewards of Patience tasting panel 2021 - 5/5 rating
Bin 707 is Penfolds cabernet sauvignon Grange equivalent. The style relies on the riper spectrum of cabernet sauvignon flavours and tannins, is matured in new American oak and expresses the Penfolds policy of multi-vineyard, multi-region fruit sourcing. Named by an ex-Qantas marketing man, Bin 707 was first vintaged in 1964. The wine was not made from 1970 to 1975 (when fruit was directed to other wines) nor in 1981, 1995, 2000, 2003, 2011 or 2017 (when fruit of the required style and quality was not available). Full bodied and with good cellaring potential, Bin 707 has a secure place among the ranks of Australia's finest cabernets.
"Classic, inimitable, signature 707: blockbuster and towering, yet focused and controlled, packed with all manner of density and exacting varietal definition, over a solid core of dark chocolate American oak. Density is impenetrable, yet at the same time it's sleek and streamlined. Its energy, poise and super fine, commandingly structured tannins furnish an epic future.” Tyson Stelzer
"Arguably the best Penfolds red, consistently expressive of exemplary cabernet qualities, Bin 707 is sourced from several South Australian regions, principally the Barossa and Coonawarra. A benchmark cellaring wine, revived in the 1970s after Len Evans told Penfolds their decision to delete it some years earlier bordered on the insane." Jeremy Oliver
The 2012 Penfolds Bin 707 is 100% cabernet sauvignon sourced from premium vineyards in Coonawarra, Padthaway, Barossa Valley, Wrattonbully and Adelaide Hills. The wine was matured for 14 months in new American oak hogsheads.
"Deep crimson. Intense blackcurrant, dark chocolate, cherry liqueur and roasted coffee aromas. A richly flavoured wine with blackcurrant, dark chocolate and panforte flavours, vigorous powerful muscular driving tannins and underlying savoury espresso oak notes. Sweet fruited wine with the structure and attack to age for decades. Keep for a while. Peak drinking 2025 to 2060.
Vintage Conditions: Lower than average winter rainfall was experienced across each region. Variable conditions continued through the period from October to December, merging into a mild summer, with a few short periods of elevated heat. Areas including the Coonawarra experienced cooler temperatures for flowering ahead of superior ripening conditions, with lower yields contributing to an earlier start to harvest. Across each region, fruit was picked in optimal condition. Smaller berry and bunch sizes were noticeable in most regions. Coupled with favourable weather conditions, great results were delivered for traditional quality markers – colour, tannin profile, fruit concentration and flavour depth." Penfolds
Expert reviews
"Deep crimson. Intense blackcurrant, dark chocolate, cherry liqueur and roasted coffee aromas. A richly flavoured wine with blackcurrant, dark chocolate and panforte flavours, vigorous powerful muscular driving tannins and underlying savoury espresso oak notes. Sweet fruited wine with the structure and attack to age for decades. Keep for a while. Peak drinking 2025 to 2060." Penfolds Rewards of Patience tasting panel 2021 - 5/5 rating
"There is amazing depth to the purple-crimson colour. Its full-bodied colours are nailed to the mast immediately the wine enters the mouth; it's strange how the cabernet of this wine marries with the American oak, providing the ultimate Christmas cake of aromas and flavours; one of its great strengths is the tannin structure that gives the wine its exceptional length (and mouthfeel along the way).” James Halliday, Halliday Wine Companion – 98 points
"Deep red with a good purple rim, the bouquet unmistakeably cabernet but with no greener notes and surprisingly, lacking the degree of overt oak that this wine usually displays on release. That said, there are definite licks of background mocha, chocolate and coffee, all oak-matured effects. The palate is very full-bodied and dense, concentrated and rich, the core of sweet blackberry and blackcurrant fruit surrounded by an amplitude of tannin. It has tremendous depth and persistence, and a finish that is smooth and harmonious. It's great to see a young 707 in which the fruit is doing most of the talking. The rich fruit has soaked up the 14 months worth of 100% new American oak. Spectacular stuff.” Huon Hooke, The Real Review – 97 points
"Classic, inimitable, signature 707: blockbuster and towering, yet focused and controlled, packed with all manner of density and exacting varietal definition of black- and redcurrants, cassis, cedar, tobacco and violets, even a hint of mint, over a solid core of dark chocolate American oak. Density is impenetrable, intricately riveted together without a hairline gap between its panels, yet at the same time sleek and streamlined. Its energy, poise and super fine, commandingly structured tannins furnish an epic future.” Tyson Stelzer - 97 points
"Deeply ripened and densely packed, this classical expression of the Penfolds house style should cellar superbly. Its intense, briary aromas of cassis and dark plums and assertive cedar/vanilla oak are backed by notes of dark olives and dried herbs, mint and menthol. Long and luscious, it's steeped in palate-staining flavour of cassis, blackberries, briar and dark plums, cloaked in grainy chocolate/mocha oak and underpinned by a fine-grained and faintly mineral backbone. Drink: 2032-2042." Jeremy Oliver - 96 points
"Bin 707 is often criticised for its oak but it still goes into 100% new American; confidence in the style shows no signs of wavering. Truth is that you can't approach Bin 707 without oak being front of mind, which many would say is the problem in a nutshell, but I'd argue that the meshing of fruit-oak in Bin 707 has improved over the years. In short, it's a much better drink than it once was. This release is cabernet goes to Hollywood, full of pizzazz and polish, make up and special effects. It may not be the truest expression of cabernet grapes but the story editor has all the twists and turns in exactly the right places. Waves of tannin, blackcurrant, mint, boysenberry, vanillin. Quite a show. And really, in its style, a super wine." Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front - 96 points
Awards
Penfolds Rewards of Patience tasting panel 2021 - 5/5 rating
The story of bin 707
Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon, Penfolds first commercial release of a single cabernet-based wine, is linked to Max Schubert's dream of making a great Australian red wine that could last at least 20 years.
When Penfolds purchased the 1888-planted Kalimna Vineyard, including the prized Block 42 plantings of cabernet sauvignon, the varietal was still quite rare in Australia. Schubert had originally thought the Kalimna Vineyard might be a source for Grange, but early crops proved unreliable.
During the ‘50s and early ‘60s cabernet sauvignon was mostly used for blending, but Schubert's breakthrough with the varietal as a stand-alone wine came in 1964, at a time when Penfolds was expanding its red table wine portfolio. Early Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignons were typically open fermented under wax-lined header boards and matured in seasoned old oak (rather than new oak). While these early wines were well received by trade and media, a disappointing 1969 vintage led Penfolds to discontinue production until it could find reliable and consistent fruit.
Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon returned with the 1976 vintage, primarily based on Coonawarra fruit with vital input from the Barossa Valley. Since then the winemaking blueprint for Bin 707 has been almost identical to Grange, including partial barrel fermentation and 18 months maturation in new American hogsheads. Within a few years of its relaunch, Bin 707 was considered by collectors as a benchmark Australian cabernet sauvignon.
Coonawarra and Barossa Valley, particularly the Kalimna and Koonunga Hill vineyards, have been at the heart of the Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon since the 1970s. Today, the cool-climate Robe, Padthaway and Wrattonbully vineyards in South-East South Australia are additional sources.
Winemaking is very similar to Grange and as a consequence the style relies on the riper spectrum of cabernet sauvignon flavours and tannins. In colder growing seasons, when it is difficult to reach optimum ripeness, the wine is not released. These strict selection principles ensure continuity of the Bin 707 style and quality across all released vintages.
Penfolds Rewards of Patience 2021
Peter Gago
The following text is taken from an article by Ken Gargett in Quill & Pad, https://quillandpad.com
Peter Gago has what many people in the wine world think is the best job on the planet. He is chief winemaker for Penfolds, based in South Australia and one of Australia’s oldest wine producers.
Max Schubert created Grange with the experimental first wine, the 1951, after he returned from Bordeaux and wanted to establish an Aussie First Growth. The story of Grange has been told many times, and as fascinating as it is I won’t rehash it again. Schubert ruled at Penfolds right through to the 1976 vintage, when he handed the reins to Don Ditter. Ditter made the wines right through to the 1986 vintage when John Duval stepped up. Duval was chief winemaker until the 2002 vintage, when he left to do his own thing, very successfully.
Since that time, Peter Gago has been the chief winemaker. It should be noted that although the role of chief winemaker at Penfolds will always be inextricably linked with Grange, there are a great many other wines in the portfolio for which this position assumes ultimate responsibility.
Alongside the winemaking, in which he is still heavily involved, a usual week in non-Covid times sees Gago flying around the world to tastings, dinners, events, festivals, and promotions. I suspect that only David Attenborough (outside of pilots and crew) has racked up more flying miles. I remember seeing him one day when he seemed even more pleased with the world than usual. Turns out he’d just run into his wife, Gail, now retired but a long-term and highly regarded member of the South Australian parliament, at the airport. Gago had not been aware that they would both be in the same country that week, let alone cross paths, such is his usual peripatetic lifestyle.
Gago has friends and admirers all around the globe, from the rich and famous to young, aspiring wine lovers, and will spend time talking to them all. I suspect that if he wanted to start dropping names, the din would reverberate for days, but you could not find a humbler man. Gago is a serious music buff and you’d be amazed at the number of rock stars who revere him, much in the way their fans might do for them (for instance, after crawling over broken glass to get a ticket to a Bruce Springsteen concert I saw Gago sitting in prime seats with Springsteen’s family, after which they went for dinner and knocked off a few bottles of Grange).
Gago is probably as close to a rock star himself in the world of wine, although perhaps more modest rather than flamboyant. And I have no idea if he can sing.
The thing that most amazes me with Gago is that every time you talk to him, he is bubbling with genuine enthusiasm, not just for Grange but for all his wines. He just loves what he is doing. One gets the feeling that every morning he wakes up and pinches himself to make sure it is real.
Among his many attributes, Gago has the gift of the gab like few others. Only once have I ever seen him lost for words and caught off guard. Many years ago, at the annual release – held in a very fancy location near the shores of Sydney Harbor; it is always a fancy location somewhere and also always includes great champagne to kick off the day as Gago is fanatical about the world’s best bubbles – the then current chairman or CEO of whichever corporate entity was then the owner of Penfolds attended the day. Forgive me for my failure to remember just where the corporate snakes and ladders left Penfolds that day and for failing to remember the relevant gentleman’s name. He had only been appointed as a temporary executive while the search for a more permanent one was ongoing, but unlike any of the CEOs before and after, this man had a genuine interest and came to a couple of tastings to learn.
Anyway, as we sipped our champagne on the lawns overlooking Sydney Harbor and chatted, our friend suddenly posed a question to Gago. He had been meaning to ask, he said, just how much Grange the company made. There were five or six writers in this little group and suddenly, every single one of us had pad and pen poised. The production of Grange is a national secret that is not to be disclosed under pain of death (general consensus puts it at, depending on the vintage, between 5,000 and 15,000 cases, with most releases in the mid range, but this is pure speculation).
Gago was at a loss. The boss of bosses had just asked him a direct question and Gago is far too polite not to answer but knew he couldn’t give that information out in public. He managed a fair bit of mumbling and generalizations and I think he suggested they meet later. Pads and pens all went back into bags, and we could not help grinning while Gago looked like he’d just swallowed a bad oyster.
Gago was born in England in 1957, but his family moved to Melbourne when he was only six years of age. Originally a math teacher (teaching is still a passion), he undertook a science degree at the University of Melbourne and then attended Roseworthy College, a famous Australian winemaking college, graduating as Dux (the highest ranking academic performance -ed), which will surprise no one.
In 1989 he joined Penfolds as a sparkling winemaker, working with Ed Carr, who has established a career in sparkling wine (now with Arras) as successful as Gago’s is with table wines. He moved to reds and quickly rose through the ranks until succeeding Duval in 2002. In the 73 years since Schubert was first appointed, Gago is only the fourth chief winemaker.
During his tenure, he has stacked up an extraordinary array of bling, as has Penfolds under his stewardship (Gago heads a team of eight winemakers for table wines and a couple more for fortifieds). He has several “Winemaker of the Year” awards from different entities and publications, both from Australia and abroad, but the accolades go well beyond that.
In 2017, in what is termed “the Queen’s Birthday Honors List,” he was awarded the highly prestigious Companion of the Order of Australia (AC) for service to the wine industry. For non-Aussies, that is a big one! A year later, he received an honorary doctorate from the University of South Australia and named the Great Wine Capitals Ambassador for South Australia.
Very recently, Gago was awarded perhaps the most prestigious honor of all in the wine world: admission to the Decanter Hall of Fame (previously they honored the Decanter Man – or Woman – of the Year, but that changed). Decanter is a highly respected English wine magazine that established its hall of fame in 1984 with Serge Hochar from Château Musar in Lebanon the first recipient. There is only a single addition per year. Gago is the fourth Australian following Max Schubert in 1988, Len Evans in 1997, and Brian Croser in 2004. That two of the four chief winemakers from a single producer have made this list (Schubert and Gago) is unprecedented but shows just where Penfolds sits in the pantheon of wine producers around the globe.
And should you still remain unconvinced then take a moment to look at some of the names Gago has joined: Parker, Spurrier, Tchelistcheff, Robinson, Moueix, de Villaine, Antinori, Lichine, Gaja, Symington, Loosen, Guigal, Torres, Draper, Peynaud, Mondavi, and so many more. There is no question that the name Peter Gago sits very comfortably alongside them all.
What is most important is that across the board the Penfolds wines have never been better, and while it is a team effort, in the end we can thank Gago.
Winery
After the success of early sherries and fortified wines, founders Dr Christopher and Mary Penfold planted the vine cuttings they had carried on their voyage over to Australia. In 1844 the fledging vineyard was officially established as the Penfolds wine company at Magill Estate.
As the company grew, so too did Dr Penfold's medical reputation, leaving much of the running of the winery to Mary Penfold. Early forays into Clarets and Rieslings proved increasingly popular, and on Christopher's death in 1870, Mary assumed total responsibility for the winery. Mary's reign at the helm of Penfolds saw years of determination and endeavour.
By the time Mary Penfold retired in 1884 (ceding management to her daughter, Georgina) Penfolds was producing 1/3 of all South Australia's wine. She'd set an agenda that continues today, experimenting with new methods in wine production. By Mary's death in 1896, the Penfolds legacy was well on its way to fruition. By 1907, Penfolds had become South Australia's largest winery.
In 1948, history was made again as Max Schubert became the company's first Chief Winemaker. A loyal company man and true innovator, Schubert would propel Penfolds onto the global stage with his experimentation of long-lasting wines - the creation of Penfolds Grange in the 1950s.
In 1959 (while Schubert was perfecting his Grange experiment in secret), the tradition of ‘bin wines' began. The first, a Shiraz wine with the grapes of the company's own Barossa Valley vineyards was simply named after the storage area of the cellars where it is aged. And so Kalimna Bin 28 becomes the first official Penfolds Bin number wine.
In 1960, the Penfolds board instructed Max Schubert to officially re-start production on Grange. His determination and the quality of the aged wine had won them over.
Soon, the medals began flowing and Grange quickly became one of the most revered wines around the world. In 1988 Schubert was named Decanter Magazine's Man of the Year, and on the 50th anniversary of its birth, Penfolds Grange was given a heritage listing in South Australia.
Despite great success, Penfolds never rests on its laurels. In 2012 Penfolds released its most innovative project to date - 12 handcrafted ampoules of the rare 2004 Kalimna Block Cabernet Sauvignon.
Two years later, Penfolds celebrated the 170th anniversary – having just picked up a perfect score of 100 for the 2008 Grange in two of the world's most influential wine magazines. Today, Penfolds continues to hold dear the philosophies and legends – '1844 to evermore!'.
South Australia
South Australian is responsible for more than half the production of all Australian wine. It is home to more than 900 wineries across 18 wine regions. The regions are Adelaide Hills, Adelaide Plains, Barossa Valley, Clare Valley, Coonawarra, Currency Creek, Eden Valley, Kangaroo Island, Langhorne Creek, McLaren Vale, Mount Benson, Mount Gambier, Padthaway, Riverland, Robe, Southern Fleurieu, Southern Flinders Ranges and Wrattonbully.
Many of the well-known names in the South Australian wine industry established their first vineyards in the late 1830s and early 1840s. The first vines in McLaren Vale were planted at Reynella in 1839 and Penfold's established Magill Estate on the outskirts of Adelaide in 1844.
South Australia has a vast diversity in geography and climate which allows the State to be able to produce a range of grape varieties - from cool climate Riesling in the Clare and Eden Vallies to the big, full bodied Shiraz wines of the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale. Two of Australia's best-known wines, Penfolds Grange and Henschke Hill of Grace, are produced here. There is much to discover in South Australia for the wine lover.