Penfolds Bin 95 Grange 2018 (Gift Box)

Vintage Conditions: Near long-term winter rainfall ensured the vines reached spring with full soil moisture profiles. Elevated spring temperatures, driven by higher than usual lows, indicated an early start to the growing season. Warm and sunny weather prevailed throughout most of spring, providing optimal conditions for flowering and fruit-set. The Barossa Valley experienced a dry summer, only recording 50% of the longterm average rainfall. The region experienced 22 days of temperature greater than 35°C during summer, while to the south, McLaren Vale experienced 17 days greater than 35°C. This warm and dry pattern also prevailed in Clare Valley with only one significant rain event in early December. The hot spells slowed grape phenology, delaying harvest by a couple of weeks. Milder conditions in autumn provided optimal conditions for ripening grapes to their fullest potential. An outstanding vintage."  Penfolds 

Erin Larkin and Peter Gago discuss the 2018 Grange (12.48 into the video)
Click on image to play video

Expert reviews

"Deep colour. Beautfiul and classic, with intense blackberry, blackcurrant dark chocolate espresso aromas and wax polish, roasted chestnut, malt notes. Superbly concenrated wine with deep-set inky blackberry, blackcurrant, dark plum, dark chocolate mocha flavours, fine chocolaty/velvety tannins, underlying espresso, malt, oak notes and hints of aniseed. Finishes chocolaty firm with superbly integrated acidity and mineral length. A glorious year for Grange. This will last 50 years at least. Wonderful. One of the greatest vintages of all time, highlighting a superb growing season, marvellous vineyard management, the fidelity of the Penfolds house style, and generations of imagination and effort. 97% Shriaz, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale and Clare Valley. 18 months maturation in 100% new American oak hogsheads. Drink 2030-2060+."  Andrew Caillard MW, The Vintage Journal Penfolds Collection 2022 - 100 points

"A robust Grange from a lauded vintage, this wields sheer power with such compelling prowess. Uncompromising Grange. There are rich blackberries and plums on offer, together with brazen oak and abundant notes of blackcurrants, black cherries, charcoal, cola and hard brown spices. So fleshy and intense. Dark-chocolate and cocoa-powder aromas and flavors here, too. The tannins are polished and long, extruding deep into the finish and holding endlessly. Dark chocolate, black cherry, dark plum and more. Impressive. Brazen. One of the great Granges that will drink magnificently for decades to come."  Nick Stock, JamesSuckling.com – 100 points and Top 100 Value Wines of the World 2022 and Top 100 Wines of Australia 2022

"A much-awaited vintage that fulfils expectations and then some. It has all the elements that you come to expect but still you have to sit back and marvel that so much can be going on inside one wine. Firstly, it simply ain't Grange unless it is wearing its traditional American oak coat, and this iteration isn't going to shy away from that. But perhaps it is the generosity across the board of South Australia's 2018 vintage that gathers in 18 months of barrel maturation, puts shape to its broad-shouldered dark fruits, turns oak notes into chocolate and sarsaparilla characters on one side of the brain and beef and mushroom braise in the other. All in all, it is a fabulous balance of inputs: big fruit, classically prominent oak, all its structural tannins and acidity fitting cleverly into one exceptionally complex and engaging being. Palate length is indefinite, perhaps suggesting similar cellaring potential well into the second half of the 21st century. Magnificent."  Tony Love, Wine Pilot – 100 points

"There was one wine, however, that I was even keener to taste again: the 2018 Grange. I’d given it 100 points the first time I tasted it and was blown away. That said, when one goes big, so to speak, for such a young wine, there are always nagging doubts. Did it really deserve such an exulted score? I was far from the only one to rate it so highly, but I was still keen to see whether or not I had gotten a bit too excited on the day.

Absolutely not. This is a truly spectacular wine, fully deserving of its score. Indeed, I think it is the most thrilling young Grange (Aussie red wine, if you like) that I have ever tasted, and that in time it will sit with the very best: 1952, 1953, 1962, 1966, 1971, 1976, 1986, 1990, 1991, 1996, 1998, 2002, 2004, 2008, 2010, and 2012. No doubt others will have their own view on the greatest Granges, but all these must rank with the finest (in fairness, I should state that I have included the 1952 on reputation as I have not had the pleasure).

So my 'wine of the year' came down to the choice from a pair from Penfolds: the 1962 Bin 60A and the 2018 Grange. I’m opting for the latter, simply because it will still be available (and a fraction of the price, though hardly everyday drinking at AUD$1,000)."  Ken Gargett, The World of Fine Wine - 100 points

"Composed of 97% Shiraz with a 3% splash of Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2018 Grange was sourced from the Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, and Clare Valley. It was aged for 18 months in 100% new American oak hogsheads (slightly larger than the classic Bordeaux barriques). It sports an opaque purple-black color, while the nose begins as an impenetrable wall of blueberry pie and blackberry preserves. Patience and vigorous swirling eventually unlock an underlying perfume of Indian spices, cedar chest, sassafras, fragrant soil, and cracked black peppercorns, with slowly emerging wafts of licorice, charcuterie, and rose oil. The assertive, full-bodied palate is taut and muscular, featuring very firm, super tight-knit tannins and seamless acidity, finishing long, long, long. Undoubtedly one of the great modern era Granges, this 2018 is like a hypothetical blend of the concentrated, powerful 2013, albeit with the latent expressiveness of the fabulously opulent, flamboyant 2008. Try to keep your hands off this multifaceted powerhouse for 10-15 years and then drink it over the next 50 years+ or bequeath it to your favored next of kin."  Lisa Perrotti-Brown, The Wine Independent - 100 points

Anders Enquiest, Livets Goda - 100 points

"Grange 2018 offers the 'other' side of Grange, the less monumental side. Personally, I prefer the less monumental. The 2018 also shows a reflection of the year – '18 is often described as 'outstanding' – something which has to be admired in a multi-regional wine. Three different wine regions in 2018 joining as one to produce a reflection of a particular vintage. How can that be? Taste the 2003 or 2011 Grange, or a host of what might be termed lesser vintages, and compare them to the sublime 1990, 1991 or 2012 (among others). It does work. There's a youthful, irresistible energy to the 2018. It's immediate on the bouquet which springs from the glass in lifted aromas of vanilla, roasted nuts, ripe blackberry, blackcurrant, cinnamon, clove, roasting juices and a hint of leaf and undergrowth. Boasts the complexity, fruit power and overall balance – and that includes an astonishing 18 months in 100% new American oak which sits easily on this wine – to go the full distance both lengthwise and cellar wise. The list of adjectives runs long but, altogether, the 2018 Grange presents seamlessly. And there's that very Grange mix of volatility, savouriness and sweet, generous fruit that abides. And did I mention that seemingly impossible gentle elegance in such a large frame?"  Jeni Port, Wine Pilot – 99 points

"This wine comes with high expectations—as does the vintage. The 2018 vintage across South Australia (and cheekily, we could probably extend the accolade to all of Australia) was excellent. It was warm, but without incident, and responsible for powerfully ripe, serious wines. Many producers made some of their best wines in this vintage. So here, to the 2018 Grange: there is spiced raspberry, lashings of salted licorice, red curry paste, layers of forest berries, rendered lamb fat and crushed pink peppercorns to start. In the mouth, the tannins close around the fruit with the same polish and seamlessness as the 2008, possibly the 2004? Very different vintages, but there is a textural similarity for me. This is polished and glossy and so very pretty. It contains 3% Cabernet Sauvignon this year, and 69% Barossa, 18% McLaren Vale and the balance from Clare Valley. Each of the regions brings with it its own characteristics. Barossa brings the red dirt, blood, deli meat and rust. McLaren Vale brings the plush purple fruits with a side of meat and licorice. Clare brings the polish, the opulence and the velvet texture. With their powers combined, this is an extraordinary Grange. One of the true greats, which will only get better as it ages."  Erin Larkin, Wine Advocate - 99 points

"Hedonism and eroticism in the same glass. This is a magnificently expressive Grange and one with so much focussed attack and splendour countered by exquisite tension and grandeur it is amazing. Pure, densely packed and splendidly oaky, the fruit notes are truly kaleidoscopic, covering blue, red, black and purple layers with serious plushness. Yet it never loses its pedigree nor its historical touch points and time-honoured reliability. This is another amazing Grange vintage. While I have not deployed a perfect score here, this wine is knocking on the door and I reserve judgement to tweak, if necessary, next time I taste it!”  Matthew Jukes - 19.5++/20 points

"Much is anticipated of this famous wine from a particularly famous vintage. Shiraz plus 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. Fruit from Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Clare Valley. 18 months in American oak hogsheads (100% new). TA 7 g/l, pH 3.56.
Very deep blackish crimson. Much more expressive than the RWT on the nose. This really should be a banker should anyone put it into a blind tasting. The French have criticised it for being too approachable, according to Gago! Salty nose plus really ripe, rich dark fruits. Heady – just hinting at porty – and super-healthy on the palate. So rich underneath. Multi-layered, warm and spicy. Rich and broad. No disappointment."  Jancis Robinson MW – 19/20 points

"A remarkable wine, bursting with complexity and intensity but on a polished, mouthcoating and juicy frame, which makes this easy to enjoy now. Features chicory, sarsaparilla, dark chocolate and salted caramel notes that mingle with ripe black cherry, framboise and huckleberry flavors, backed by hints of almond paste and savory details of cured meat and fresh-crushed rosemary that linger on the epic finish. Drink now through 2045."  MaryAnn Worobiec, Wine Spectator - 98 points

"A substantial Grange release, poised, creamy, saturated with dark berried flavour, vanillin but appropriately so. Rarely does tannin come, when it's as robust as it is here, so saturated in flavour, start to finish, sun up to sun down. Pan juices flow, fruit commands, tannin blows the roof off things. This is a big release, bigger (in memory at least) than the previous few releases – it has a CMYK blacker-than-black density to it – but its quality is ballistic. Take the stereotype of new world red wine, push its quality to its outer limits and then push it out yet further again, and you have this wine. Grange for the true believers, maybe not, but one for the new believers, definitively."  Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front - 98 points

"Inky, bright-rimmed violet. A kaleidoscopic, penetrating bouquet evokes ripe black and blue fruit preserves, espresso, cola, incense, coconut and Moroccan spices, along with a smoky mineral topnote. Shows superb clarity and mineral lift to the sweet, deeply concentrated black currant, bitter cherry, dark chocolate, fruitcake and mocha flavors, which are sharpened by a spicy element. A vein of juicy acidity adds support and drives a wonderfully long, smoky finish that leaves a suave floral note behind. Drink 2030 - 2045." Josh Raynolds, Vinous - 98 points

"The 2018 Grange Bin 95 is an ultra-premium blend of Shiraz and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. It will go down as one of the great Grange vintages with immaculate balance and poise despite immense concentration. The sheer density of fruit is breath-taking, with exceptional vitality also on display. There is a dense, muscular core of fruit including blackberries, licorice, tar and dried sage in perfect alignment with decadent but well integrated American oak. Despite superb palate concentration, it is also surprisingly light on its feet and vibrant with wave after wave of brooding dark berry fruit and soy sauce flavours. A deep well of tannins also support an almost endless and distinguished finish. This will age incredibly well and improve for decades." Angus Hughson, Vinous - 98 points

"The inimitable, sheer power and towering grandeur that is Grange attain incredible depth and breadth in this warm and dry season. Untold layers of black fruits, liquorice, high cocoa dark chocolate, coal steam and crushed ants are toned by a mild autumn, brimming in bold, strong, new American oak. There is a sweet fruit core that propagates and surges, defining confidence, direction and assurance. Profound persistence and unrelenting determination characterise a monumental vintage; inimitably Grange and veritably delicious." Tyson Stelzer - 98 points

"The latest release, from the warm '18 vintage, of Penfolds's most iconic wine delivers on all it promises. Even sans decanting, it promptly fills the nose with a multitude of aromas, from black cherry and lightly grilled plums to dark chocolate and cracked black pepper; from roasting herbs and spices (think bay leaf, rosemary, thyme and dried mint), to a polished glean of well-integrated oak. The palate is powerful, in a dignified way, with a sculpted shape, fine, chalky tannins and persistent flavor. Decades of age await, but if well decanted and well paired, it's drinking remarkably beautifully now."  Christina Pickard, Wine Enthusiast – 98 points

"Super saturated deep dark red-purple colour; lashings of coconut and dark plum at first sniff, there's mocha, fruitcake and plum pudding there at first sniff, the oak still discernible, while the palate is remarkably soft for a young Grange, the tannins supple and measured, the wine growing more chocolaty as it sat in the glass. It does seem slightly forward when tasted after several admittedly younger wines. Fleshy, nicely textured, but perhaps seems just a trifle lacking vitality on the palate. Lower acidity? This is hair-splitting: it is certainly a very good Grange. No doubt time will reveal it to be such. It's from a top vintage." Huon Hooke, The Real review - 97 points

Awards

Ken Gargett Wine of the Year 2022
Top 100 Value Wines of the World 2022 - James Suckling
Top 100 Wines of Australia 2022 - James Suckling

The story of grange

1931
In a sign of Max Schubert's determination to make his mark on Australia's wine industry, he did whatever he could to get his foot in the door at Penfolds, joining the company as a messenger boy in 1931. By 1948, at the age of 33, Max Schubert became Penfolds first Chief Winemaker.

1950
In the latter part of 1950, Schubert was sent to Europe to investigate winemaking practices in Spain & Portugal. On a side trip to Bordeaux, Schubert was inspired and impressed by the French cellared-style wines and dreamed of making 'something different and lasting' of his own.

1951

Back in Adelaide, in time for the 1951 vintage, Max Schubert set about looking for appropriate 'raw material' and Shiraz was his grape of choice. Combining traditional Australian techniques, inspiration from Europe and precision winemaking practices developed at Penfolds, Schubert made his first experimental wine in 1951.

1957
Max Schubert was asked to show his efforts in Sydney to top management, invited wine identities and personal friends of the board. To his horror the Grange experiment was universally disliked and Schubert was ordered to shut down the project. What might have been enough to bury Grange in another winemaker's hands, only made Max more determined to succeed.

Late 20th Century
Max continued to craft his Grange vintages in secret, hiding three vintages '57, '58 and '59, in depths of the cellars. Eventually the Penfolds board ordered production of Grange to restart, just in time for the 1960 vintage. From then on, international acknowledgment and awards were bestowed on Grange, including the 1990 vintage of Grange which was named Wine Spectator's Red Wine of the Year in 1995.

Today
Grange's reputation as one of the world's most celebrated wines continues to grow today. On its 50th birthday in 2001, Grange was listed as a South Australian heritage icon, while the 2008 Grange vintage achieved a perfect score of 100 points by two of the world's most influential wine magazines. With every new generation of Penfolds winemakers, Max Schubert's remarkable vision is nurtured and strengthened.

The following text is taken from an article by Ken Gargett in Quill & Pad, https://quillandpad.com

Grange is one of the best-known stories in Australian wine, always worth recapping, especially as a bottle of the very first vintage, 1951, sold at auction last month for AUD$157,624. Not bad for a wine that was never released commercially – it was simply considered an experiment at the time and is apparently only just this side of undrinkable these days.

Grange had an unlikely genesis. Penfolds' head winemaker back in the late 1940s was the legendary Max Schubert. In those days, the market was very much focused on fortifieds, with table wines a distant second. Schubert made several visits to Spain and Portugal to study fortified making, but he had a strong interest in table wines and on the way home he ducked up to Bordeaux for a few days.

Schubert was blown away by what he saw there and returned determined to create an Australian "First Growth." Of course, easier said than done.

The first problem was funding it, though his employers were largely supportive of his experiments provided they did not get in the way of his real work – which in those days was very much on various fortifieds rather than table wines. First Growths tend to be heavily Cabernet Sauvignon dominant with varying amounts of other varieties, especially Merlot. Well, in the late 1940s, early 1950s in Australia, good luck finding much of either, especially Merlot, at the level of quality Schubert required. What we did have, in abundance, was Shiraz. At this stage, Shiraz was dominant even in regions that would become so famous for Cabernet such as Coonawarra.

In addition, First Growths spent time maturing in new French oak. At that stage, American was the oak most commonly found in Australia; there was simply not the quantity or quality of French oak available. So new American it was. While First Growths (indeed, all the top Bordeaux) were from single estates, Australia was all about blending, not only vineyards but regions.

So, the result would be a wine made mostly from Shiraz – only a few Granges over the years have been 100 percent Shiraz, most having a small percentage of Cabernet. It would be sourced from a wide range of regions and matured in new American oak. It has ever been thus.

So nothing at all like a First Growth then, but it started a line of wines that have long been generally considered as Australia’s finest. Personal preference might take one elsewhere and there are a number of exceptional contenders. But Grange has the runs on the board.

The first Grange, an experimental wine, was the 1951 and Penfolds has never missed a vintage since then. The first intended for commercial release was the 1952. Schubert’s intention was a wine that could match great Bordeaux in aging ability, so it was into the cellar with the first vintages for as long as he could get away with. After some years, he finally brought them out for a tasting for the Penfolds hierarchy (Penfolds headquarters was situated half a continent away in Sydney so the daily goings-on at Magill were of little interest). But as Schubert said, that hierarchy had become "increasingly aware of the large amount of money lying idle in their underground cellars at Magill."

To say the unveiling was a disaster of near Biblical proportions would be an understatement. The wines were hated, even ridiculed.

Schubert was devastated. He was inordinately proud of these wines, believing them to be exceptional. The tasting included vintages 1951 to 1956. The wines were treated with contempt. One well-known expert's assessment was, "Schubert, I congratulate you. A very good, dry port, which no one in their right mind will buy, let alone drink." Another compared them to "crushed ants."

Yet another thought he’d take advantage of the situation and offered to take a few dozen off Schubert's hands, but he expected them for free as he thought them not worth any money. One wanted some for use as an aphrodisiac, believing the wine to be like bull’s blood, hence something that would, "raise his blood count to twice the norm when the occasion demanded." A young doctor requested some as an anesthetic for his girlfriend (the mind boggles as to why this was required – and given his position as a doctor, why he did not have access to something more suitable).

It is worth noting that wines like 1952, 1953, and 1955 are now considered to be some of the greatest ever made in Australia. The 1951 is now little more than a curio and I doubt anyone is paying AUD$150,000 for the pleasure of drinking it. It is for collectors only.

After the debacle, the order came from Sydney: "Cease production."

Despite knowing full well that defiance of such instructions would end his career, Schubert was so convinced as to the ultimate quality of these wines that he ignored the directive. From 1957, he made the wines in secret. Of course, this meant that he could not add the usual quantities of new oak to the budget among other things – there is only so much you can hide from bean counters, even long distance. But the wines were made and hidden away in the depths of the cellars under false names and records. This gave us the "hidden Granges" of 1957, 1958, and 1959.

At the time Penfolds still had stocks of the early Granges and little idea what to do with them. Schubert entered them in shows – wine shows are very important to the Australian wine industry. Not surprisingly, they started to not only win medals but to dominate the shows. Naturally, this caught the eye of the hierarchy, and the decision was made to reverse the earlier edict. Schubert was instructed to recommence production. I can find no record of the reaction by the Penfolds board when it discovered that he’d never stopped, but I would love to have been the proverbial fly on the wall.

After the success of early sherries and fortified wines, founders Dr Christopher and Mary Penfold planted the vine cuttings they had carried on their voyage over to Australia. In 1844 the fledging vineyard was officially established as the Penfolds wine company at Magill Estate.

As the company grew, so too did Dr Penfold's medical reputation, leaving much of the running of the winery to Mary Penfold. Early forays into Clarets and Rieslings proved increasingly popular, and on Christopher's death in 1870, Mary assumed total responsibility for the winery. Mary's reign at the helm of Penfolds saw years of determination and endeavour.

By the time Mary Penfold retired in 1884 (ceding management to her daughter, Georgina) Penfolds was producing 1/3 of all South Australia's wine. She'd set an agenda that continues today, experimenting with new methods in wine production. By Mary's death in 1896, the Penfolds legacy was well on its way to fruition. By 1907, Penfolds had become South Australia's largest winery.

In 1948, history was made again as Max Schubert became the company's first Chief Winemaker. A loyal company man and true innovator, Schubert would propel Penfolds onto the global stage with his experimentation of long-lasting wines - the creation of Penfolds Grange in the 1950s.

In 1959 (while Schubert was perfecting his Grange experiment in secret), the tradition of ‘bin wines' began. The first, a Shiraz wine with the grapes of the company's own Barossa Valley vineyards was simply named after the storage area of the cellars where it is aged. And so Kalimna Bin 28 becomes the first official Penfolds Bin number wine.

In 1960, the Penfolds board instructed Max Schubert to officially re-start production on Grange. His determination and the quality of the aged wine had won them over.

Soon, the medals began flowing and Grange quickly became one of the most revered wines around the world. In 1988 Schubert was named Decanter Magazine's Man of the Year, and on the 50th anniversary of its birth, Penfolds Grange was given a heritage listing in South Australia.

Despite great success, Penfolds never rests on its laurels. In 2012 Penfolds released its most innovative project to date - 12 handcrafted ampoules of the rare 2004 Kalimna Block Cabernet Sauvignon.

Two years later, Penfolds celebrated the 170th anniversary – having just picked up a perfect score of 100 for the 2008 Grange in two of the world's most influential wine magazines. Today, Penfolds continues to hold dear the philosophies and legends – ‘1844 to evermore!'.