Penfolds St Henri Shiraz 2023

"A standout of this year’s Penfolds release, with an incredible future before it."  Tyson Stelzer
"This is a stunning wine and it will blow people away."  Matthew Jukes
"What a cracker. There's a succulence and intensity that is infectious."  Dave Brookes 
"An impressive St Henri with a long and bright future ahead of it."  Huon Hooke
"Seamless, supple and so well balanced. It really is an excellent St Henri."  Ken Gargett
"An excellent release of St Henri. It is particularly cellar-worthy."  Campbell Mattinson
"The palate is plush and silky with lovely tension and purity."  James Suckling
"A classical St Henri showing its claret-like -bloodlines."  Andrew Caillard MW
"A dark-fruited and brooding affair with complexity and length in abundance."  Tom Kline

St Henri is a time-honoured and alternative expression of Shiraz, and an intriguing counterpoint to Grange. It is unusual among high quality Australian red wines as it does not rely on any new oak. Released for the first time by Penfolds in the early 1950s (first commercial vintage 1957), it gained a new lease of life in the 1990s as its quality and distinctive style became better understood. Proudly, a wine style that hasn't succumbed to the dictates of fashion or commerce. St Henri is rich and plush when young, gaining soft, earthy, mocha-like characters as it ages. It is matured in old, 1,460 litre vats that allow the wine to develop, imparting minimal, if any oak character. Although a small proportion of Cabernet is sometimes used to improve structure, the focal point for St Henri remains Shiraz. 

"This is a black labrador puppy of a St Henri, with a silky soft tummy and a lustrous coat. In addition, it has so much generosity and a kindly nature; it opens on command and welcomes forensic inspection. There is nowhere to hide here with black liquorice, an entire suite of black fruits and flowers and a spice rack to boot. Earthiness and oak are present, but discreet. Forward and communicative, and yet with enough tannin and acidity to last a couple of decades, but perhaps no more, this is a stunning wine, and it will blow people away, not least if it’s one’s first sip of this glorious and eternally amazing label. "  Matthew Jukes

"The abiding character of St Henri is its longevity, particularly in the context of better vintages. It has none of the make-up of new American oak that can hide the imperfections of a lesser vintage. A great St Henri will come into its own in a bare minimum of 10 years, and live long thereafter."  James Halliday 

The 2023 Penfolds St Henri is 100% Shiraz from premium vineyards in McLaren Vale (55%), Barossa Valley (21%), Frankland River (8%) and the balance from Port Lincoln and Padthaway. It was aged for 12 months in large seasoned oak vats.

"Black at the core with a vivid purple rim. The nose is brooding and complex, layers of black and blue fruits unfold alongside dark spices and lightly roasted coffee beans. Mineral and savoury notes emerge; wet steel on oilstone, ferric ironstone and flint are interwoven with a subtle suggestion of cordite smoke. Exotic herbal notes evoke a visit to a traditional apothecary, while fresh nettles and oolong black tea add further allure. On the palate, Juicy and generous yet firmly structured. A deep, dark fruit profile is matched by the umami savouriness of rare steak and an olive‑brined undertone. Tannins are impeccable – tight, finely woven and assured, drawing the palate long and detailed. Nuances of Chinese tea, fennel and liquorice provide precision and persistence, finishing with restraint, depth and unmistakable St Henri authority. Peak Drinking: Now – 2050."  Penfolds

Expert reviews

"This is a black labrador puppy of a St Henri, with a silky soft tummy and a lustrous coat. In addition, it has so much generosity and a kindly nature; it opens on command and welcomes forensic inspection. There is nowhere to hide here with black liquorice, an entire suite of black fruits and flowers and a spice rack to boot. Earthiness and oak are present, but discreet. Forward and communicative, and yet with enough tannin and acidity to last a couple of decades, but perhaps no more, this is a stunning wine, and it will blow people away, not least if it’s one’s first sip of this glorious and eternally amazing label. "  Matthew Jukes - 19/20 points

"A standout of this year’s Penfolds release, with an incredible future before it."  Tyson Stelzer - 97 points

"A very strong release for this classic Australian wine with a strong cellaring pedigree. Deep crimson in the glass with a purple edge and fruit tones of black cherry, satsuma plum, blueberry, and blackberry. Hints of brown spice, minerals, crushed herbs, tobacco leaf, dark chocolate-dipped cherries, black tea, roast meats and earth. There's a succulence and intensity to this year's release that is infectious; those enticing characters slowly shape-shift into something more savoury and vital at its core. The structure and fruit density suggest longevity is a given, along with balance and grace to boot. These are very good characters indeed. What a cracker. Drink by 2050."  Dave Brookes, Halliday Wine Companion - 97 points

"Not the easiest of vintages, 2023 was cool and wet. This might explain the arrival of a new region to the St. Henri blend: Frankland River. It joins Port Lincoln and regulars McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley and Padthaway in what must have been a busy blending exercise. Keeps true to the style in warmth of personality. A deeply coloured wine with intense blackberry, plum, briar, earth, leather aromas. The texture is striking, layered in deep pile, fine tannins and tiers of ripe black fruits, spices that lift, notes of chocolate and earth and a clean, smooth run through to the finish. A challenging vintage once again proves the value of Penfolds multi-regional blending philosophy and turns out an impressive St. Henri. Drink: 2026-2051."  Jeni Port, Wine Pilot – 97 points

Nick Ryan, The Weekend Australian - 97 points

"Dense, dark red with purple tints; blackberry aromas with a touch of jam, the palate is massive and full-bodied, loaded with chewy tannins and long carry. There are some sneaky spices emerging as you work the glass: nutmeg and clove as well as pepper, an impressive St Henri with a long and bright future ahead of it. Drink: 2029–2048."  Huon Hooke, The Real Review - 96 points

"100% Shiraz, maturation is in large older oak vats, for this vintage, twelve months. This particular release is especially interesting as fruit from outside South Australia has been included. A percentage of the Shiraz is from Frankland River in Western Australia. Given how special the vintage was in that region, it shouldn’t really be a surprise. The other regions to contribute were McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Port Lincoln and Padthaway. An extremely good, though not absolutely elite, St Henri. Dark plum/opaque maroon in colour, this is ripe and generously flavoured, most approachable in its youthfulness. The balance is excellent and the finish lingering. On the nose we have aromas including bay leaves, black fruits, cocoa powder, baking spices, mulberries, smoked meats, bergamot, aniseed and something akin to a chocolate snack bar which is rather enticing. Seamless, supple and with a creamy texture and a line of juicy acidity, this is so well balanced. It really is an excellent St Henri, and will provide pleasure for the next twenty-five years. Drink: 2026-2051."  Ken Gargett, Wine Pilot - 96 points

"2023 is the first time that Shiraz was sourced from Frankland River for the St. Henri, and this is significant, given it is Western Australia, when most of the fruit for the cuvées traditionally are sourced from the eastern states. To lend this comment context: 2023 was a cooler, wetter season in Barossa, a cooler season in McLaren Vale, and yet over in the west, it has shaped up to be one of the very best, most balanced, most energetic vintages in recent memory. So here, the 2023 St. Henri Shiraz is silky and fine, balanced and herbal, with star anise and shaved fennel, raspberry, milk chocolate, violets and freshness. It is really excellent. These current St. Henri's are very different in style to the early iterations of the cuvée, yet they manage to express a similar effortlessness and ease. I would say, on balance, that the alcohols are higher than the wines from the 1980s and before, yet the tannins are very polished and cleverly managed. I think this serves to set them apart or, at least, to create two schools of stylistic thinking - I am, for what it's worth, a fan of both. It matured for 12 months in large-format seasoned oak vats.  Drink: 2026-2053."  Erin Larkin, Wine Advocate - 96 points

"The noticeable difference in this wine, in a Penfolds context, is the lower or non-existence of oak flavour, but almost more noticeable is the lower impact of sweetness on the flavour profile. It’s ripe for certain, it’s not herbal, but it feels dry not just on the finish but throughout. This dryness adds an elegance, especially in tandem with this release’s mineral or graphite-like edges. We see plums and cherries here, asphalt even, along with peppercorns, and we also see wonderful extension through the finish. I’m happy to mark this as an excellent release of St Henri. It has more overt structure than usual, integrated as it is. St Henri is customarily cellar-worthy, but this release is particularly so. Drink: 2028-2040+."  Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front - 96 points

"Like descending into a cool, dark cave in the middle of scorching summer heat, you get overwhelmed with an overall sense of coolness and stillness; a quiet moment to regroup, reflect and reassess. It’s all there: freshly crushed black cherries, boysenberries and the wildest blackcurrants, alongside the aroma of freshly brewed Chinese tea. But you sort of have to move around in the dark, touching cold walls while feeling fresh droplets under your fingers. The palate mimics that continuous stream of water flowing from somewhere. The fruit density melts into that of the tannins, the oak wrapping around the two elements, combining everything together to give you that light you were searching for. You’re welcome to drink it now, as it gives you hints here and there, but I’d prefer to wait a little longer. Drink: 2026 – 2050."  Lisa Cardelli, Wine Pilot – 96 points

"There's a real elegance and charm here, with the cooler vintage showing through in black and blue berries, plum, sweet spice, ferrous earth and dried herbs. The palate is plush and silky with a metallic-edged austerity, rounded out by silky tannins and bright acidity. Lovely tension and purity, with plenty more to unravel with time in bottle. Drink or hold."  Ryan Montgomery, JamesSuckling.com - 96 points

"Deep crimson. Intense pure blackberry cassis, raspberry aromas with chinotto notes. Buoyant expressive dark and berry fruits, underlying roasted walnut notes and fresh al dente/ touch leafy tannins. Finishes claret firm with bittersweet/ chinotto notes. Lovely density and vigour. A classical St Henri showing its claret-like -bloodlines. McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Padthaway with elements of Port Lincoln and Frankland River (WA). Style over regional provenance. 12 months in large, seasoned vats. Drink now – 2038."  Andrew Caillard MW - 95 points

"First released commercially in 1957, St Henri has always stood as Grange’s deliberate counterpoint — proudly unreliant on new oak, matured instead in large, seasoned vats that let the wine’s own structure and savoury character develop rather than layering on oak influence. It’s a style that has held its identity through decades of changing fashion, rich and plush on release before settling into softer, earthy, mocha-like tones with age. Deep-set and brooding in the glass with sweet shortbread, cacao nib and black pepper at the fore before blackberry, black cherry, mint choc and black liquorice emerge. There’s some menthol, coal and black tea with further air. There’s good concentration to the palate — it drives through the mouth with black pepper dancing around blackberry, black cherry, plum, menthol, black liquorice and mint again. The savoury spice notes re-emerge through the finish alongside the dark fruit drive and liquorice tones. The tannins are quite integrated but long and driving, elongating the finish to great length. A dark-fruited and brooding affair with complexity and length in abundance."  Tom Kline, Wine Pilot - 95 points

About st henri

The first vintage of St Henri – then Auldana Cellars St Henri Claret – was produced in 1888, beginning one of the most famous and enduring names in Australian wine. It was likely named after Auldana's winemaker Léon Edmond Mazure's son Henri or his wife, Philomine Henriette. The wine immediately enjoyed success, winning the Championship Cup for Best Claret in Australia at the Adelaide Wine Show in 1890 and then again as a joint winner in 1891. The St Henri label disappeared somewhere around the beginning of World War 1, probably because of reduced export sales. It was revived by Senior Red Winemaker John Davoren at Penfolds in 1953 to celebrate the centenary of Auldana Cellars (established by Patrick Auld in 1853) but the wine was not widely released. The 1953 release was made from Auldana and Paracombe fruit and the label design was based on original St Henri labels found in a loft at Auldana Cellars shortly after its sale to Penfolds in 1947.

According to retired Penfolds Senior Winemaker John Bird, the first vintages of St Henri were cabernet sauvignon and mataro blends. The fruit was foot stomped in open-ended hogsheads during vinification. After fermentation, the wine was matured in oak vats rather than hogsheads for around 18 months. John Davoren's aim was to make a wine in the traditional Claret style, accentuating fruit and maturation characters, rather than oak complexity. In this way the winemaking style differs to Grange, as it relies on larger seasoned oak vessels without any barrel fermentation. The 1957 vintage is officially recognised as the first St Henri commercial release under the Penfolds name. Nonetheless, John Davoren describes all of the 1950s vintages as “trials”. These experimental wines from 1953 to 1959 mark an important step forward for winemaking in Australia. Not only does St Henri honour the late 19th-century aspirations of Auldana's proprietor Sir Josiah Symon and winemaker Léon Edmond Mazure, but witho

s of Australia 2022 - James Sucklingut the professional rivalry between Max Schubert and John Davoren, the Grange story would not have the same richness or romance. Initially St Henri achieved greater commercial success than Grange, although both were offered to the public as Claret styles. St Henri was a more elegant, approachable and familiar style because it reflected traditional winemaking techniques, whereas the revolutionary Grange was something of a blockbuster with more richness and fullness.

Today Penfolds St Henri is a multi-regional multi-vineyard South Australian blend, primarily based on shiraz, although it still honours the original style. Significant contrbutions of shiraz come from Barossa Valley, Eden Valley, Clare Valley, McLaren Vale, Langhorne Creek, Robe and Bordertown; cabernet sauvignon from Coonawarra, Barossa Valley and Adelaide Hills. After vinification the wine is matured in seasoned large oak vats for around 15 to 18 months before bottling. 

St Henri was labelled 'Claret' until the 1989 vintage. Packaged in laser-etched bottles
since the 1996 vintage. Released in many markets under screwcap since 2005. St Henri Shiraz possesses a unique stature in the story of Australian wine. With its proven style and aging potential, it is a favourite among Penfold's collectors. 

Extract from Penfolds Rewards of Patience tasting panel 2021

After the success of early sherries and fortified wines, founders Dr Christopher and Mary Penfold planted the vine cuttings they had carried on their voyage over to Australia. In 1844 the fledging vineyard was officially established as the Penfolds wine company at Magill Estate.

As the company grew, so too did Dr Penfold's medical reputation, leaving much of the running of the winery to Mary Penfold. Early forays into Clarets and Rieslings proved increasingly popular, and on Christopher's death in 1870, Mary assumed total responsibility for the winery. Mary's reign at the helm of Penfolds saw years of determination and endeavour.

By the time Mary Penfold retired in 1884 (ceding management to her daughter, Georgina) Penfolds was producing 1/3 of all South Australia's wine. She'd set an agenda that continues today, experimenting with new methods in wine production. By Mary's death in 1896, the Penfolds legacy was well on its way to fruition. By 1907, Penfolds had become South Australia's largest winery.

In 1948, history was made again as Max Schubert became the company's first Chief Winemaker. A loyal company man and true innovator, Schubert would propel Penfolds onto the global stage with his experimentation of long-lasting wines - the creation of Penfolds Grange in the 1950s.

In 1959 (while Schubert was perfecting his Grange experiment in secret), the tradition of ‘bin wines' began. The first, a Shiraz wine with the grapes of the company's own Barossa Valley vineyards was simply named after the storage area of the cellars where it is aged. And so Kalimna Bin 28 becomes the first official Penfolds Bin number wine.

In 1960, the Penfolds board instructed Max Schubert to officially re-start production on Grange. His determination and the quality of the aged wine had won them over.

Soon, the medals began flowing and Grange quickly became one of the most revered wines around the world. In 1988 Schubert was named Decanter Magazine's Man of the Year, and on the 50th anniversary of its birth, Penfolds Grange was given a heritage listing in South Australia.

Despite great success, Penfolds never rests on its laurels. In 2012 Penfolds released its most innovative project to date - 12 handcrafted ampoules of the rare 2004 Kalimna Block Cabernet Sauvignon.

Two years later, Penfolds celebrated the 170th anniversary – having just picked up a perfect score of 100 for the 2008 Grange in two of the world's most influential wine magazines. Today, Penfolds continues to hold dear the philosophies and legends – ‘1844 to evermore!'.