Tolpuddle Vineyard Pinot Noir 2018

Martin Shaw and Michael Hill Smith MW (Shaw & Smith) purchased the vineyard in 2011after a look-and-see jaunt to Tasmania when they became smitten by Tolpuddle's Coal Valley location and mature vines, planted only to pinot noir and chardonnay. They are fully committed to seeing Tolpuddle Vineyard recognised as one of Australia's great single vineyards.  

"A touch of rose petal and Darjeeling leaf hovers above the red cherry and cranberry nose. The palate has depth, concentration, an inner warmth and ripeness that speaks of depth and earthiness amidst the brisk, cool climate freshness. The texture is silky, the bearing is elegant, the finish is long. Simply lovely."  Falstaff

In barely a decade, Tolpuddle has established itself as one of the country's top producers. It produces wines of blistering precision and finesse which have received rave critical acclaim. They are highly sought-after and are some of the finest examples of chardonnay and pinot noir that can be found anywhere on the Apple Isle.

"If ever a new winery was born with blue blood in its veins, Tolpuddle would have to be it."  James Halliday 

Expert reviews

"Hand-picked, whole berries and whole bunches open-fermented with gentle plunging. A wine that explains the love at fist sight when the Tolpuddle partners saw the vineyard. It comes flying through the weather of the vintage that trapped others with a highly perfumed red flower bouquet and into a layered palate reflecting the whole bunch/whole berry fermentation, spicy, savoury, foresty notes form a laurel wreath on the fruit, the oak integrated."  James Halliday, Halliday Wine Companion - 97 points and Special Value Wine  ★ 

"Impressively deep red/purple colour, both dark and youthful. The bouquet is youthful and a tad under-developed, showing concentrated dark cherry and dark plum fruit and a hint of toasty oak, without obvious incursion of stemminess. The palate is medium to full-bodied, weighty for an Aussie pinot, with abundant soft tannins and real gravitas. A very smart young pinot, which just needs more time to reveal its full potential. Drink: 2021-2034."  Huon Hooke, The Real Review - 96 points

"A touch of rose petal and Darjeeling leaf hovers above the red cherry and cranberry nose. The palate has depth, concentration, an inner warmth and ripeness that speaks of depth and earthiness amidst the brisk, cool climate freshness. The texture is silky, the bearing is elegant, the finish is long. Simply lovely."  Falstaff - 96 points

"If 2017 is the in-breath/out-breath pulsing wine, then the 2018 Pinot Noir is the glossy, succulent, polished wine. It has grace and flow and an ease about it. Black cherries, pomegranate and red licorice mingle with Szechuan peppercorns, star anise and praline, plus rose petals and minerals. The fruit has enveloped the structure a little better than some of its peers. I love this wine. Drink: 2022-2038."  Erin Larkin, Wine Advocate - 95 points

"This is a very driven and complex red with dried-strawberry, tea, coffee and mahogany aromas and flavors. Full-bodied yet integrated and compact, giving the wine a refined and very structured impression. This is one to watch. Better after 2022, but already delicious. Screw cap."  James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com - 95 points

"This remarkable single vineyard in Tasmania's Coal River Valley was lovingly restored nearly a decade ago by respected Adelaide Hills duo Shaw and Smith. The 2018 marks Tolpuddle vineyard's 30th year in the ground and the maturity shows. This is quiet at first but with time and air unfurls like a genie from a bottle: cherry, red currant, stony minerality, dried florals, spices and a distinctive umami note. There's a lovely play between acidity and tannins on the silky, medium-weight palate. This is an elegant, terroir-driven wine that's beautiful now but it has a gorgeous life ahead of it. Drink now–2032."  Christina Pickard, Wine Enthusiast – 95 points

Awards

Special Value Wine - Halliday Wine Companion  ★ 

About the winery

Tolpuddle Vineyard was established in 1988by Bill Casimaty, Gary Crittenden and Tony Jordan and it took its name from the Tolpuddle Martyrs: English convicts transported to Tasmania for forming an agricultural union. The leader of the Martyrs, George Loveless, served some of his sentence working on a property near Richmond, part of which is now Tolpuddle Vineyard. The vineyard is planted with mature Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines, facing north-east, and sloping gently up from Back Tea Tree Road. The soil is light silica over sandstone and of moderate vigour, ensuring well-balanced vines producing grapes of great flavour and intensity.  

Martin Shaw and Michael Hill Smith MW (Shaw & Smith) purchased the vineyard in 2011 after a look-and-see jaunt to Tasmania when they became smitten by Tolpuddle's Coal Valley location and mature vines, planted only to pinot noir and chardonnay. They are fully committed to seeing Tolpuddle Vineyard recognised as one of Australia's great single vineyards.  

In barely a decade, Tolpuddle has established itself as one of the country's top producers. It produces wines of blistering precision and finesse which have received rave critical acclaim. They are highly sought-after and are some of the finest examples of chardonnay and pinot noir that can be found anywhere on the Apple Isle.

The following text is taken from an article by Jasper Morris that appeared in Inside Burgundy

What began as reconnaissance for Shaw and Hill Smith back in 2011 quickly metamorphosed into profound intrigue thanks in large part to a dinner with industry friends. In this case, it was at the Launceston institution of Stillwater in northern Tasmania with Andrew Pirie – a legend of Tasmanian wine – and veteran winemaker Peter Dawson. The ever-academic Pirie referred to his laptop as he apprised the table of Tasmania’s climatic mapping and data. This was critical information as it informed the pair of just how dry the Coal River Valley was, having made the common assumption that cool equalled wet. The combination of cool and dry added to the allure on account of the long ripening period with slow flavour development and low disease pressure during the growing season. Following some good bottles over dinner, including several from Tasmania, Dawson piqued further interest by declaring that "Tasmania would be making Australia’s best Chardonnay and Pinot Noir within the next decade". 

"We’ve got to have this" were the collective words uttered by cousins Martin Shaw and Michael Hill Smith MW upon entry to the Tolpuddle Vineyard site in 2011. The intangible knowing. The feeling in the bones. But what led them down the right path? "We had no intention of buying a vineyard", says Shaw 14 years on as we amble the long, even, north-east facing slope. It’s an idyllic and resplendent blue sky day in the Coal River Valley, around 30 minutes’ drive north east of Hobart. And despite the moderate 25 degree heat, there’s a bite to the bright sunshine on account of the clear skies, low humidity and high UV of southern Tasmania.

Shaw’s casual utterance speaks to the impulsive and serendipitous nature of their Tolpuddle Vineyard purchase, and it’s difficult to fathom how easily it could’ve been missed given the indelible mark it’s made on Tasmanian – indeed Australian – wine.  This was during a time when Tasmanian Chardonnay and Pinot Noir was starting to make waves on the Australian wine media circuit, such that it prompted a reconnaissance trip south from the Shaw + Smith stables in the Adelaide Hills where the two had risen to vinous fame. 

"The Coal River Valley is cold but dry", continues Shaw, "it’s cooler than Burgundy but warmer than Champagne". The dryness is evident. There’s been little rain in the Valley for months now which is normal given Tasmania’s winter-dominant rainfall. However, this is compounded in the Coal River Valley by a rain shadow effect thanks to the mountains to the west, making it one of the driest regions on the island.

Further visits ensued, including a pivotal one to Accolade-owned Bay of Fires, where then-winemaker Peter Dredge presented barrel samples from vineyards across Tasmania that supplied fruit to Accolade. The wines that excited the pair most came from the Tolpuddle Vineyard which Accolade were using for premium offerings such as Eileen Hardy Chardonnay and House of Arras sparkling wines. The culmination of this was the all-important visit to the site that captured the two so viscerally.

The potential for greatness in a table wine capacity was evident to Shaw and Hill Smith – the forest above, the water below, the long and even Burgundian-like slope in between. What’s more, the valley’s cool climate provided insulation from the looming threats of global warming. With their eyes squarely on the prize, the two set about negotiating acquisition of a site not for sale and – spoiler alert – were quick to succeed. But changes were required to take the site in the desired direction. Certain sparkling-specific clones were replaced with more suitable alternatives, pruning was changed from spur to cane, drainage was improved, frost protection was implemented via a new dam (after having been assured frost wasn’t part of the program!) and mid-row soil was ripped to alleviate compaction. With soils made up of light silica over sandstone, water retention is poor, so composting was implemented upon taking over the site along with undervine clover to keep things cool and assist in holding moisture - critical in this dry terroir. Following further plantings, the vineyard is now 31 hectares with an approximate 50/50 split between Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Around the time of the Tolpuddle Vineyard purchase, Shaw and Hill Smith had been trying to entice star winemaker Adam Wadewitz to join the Shaw + Smith team. Wadewitz was winemaker at Best’s Great Western in Victoria at the time, and it was the prospect of working with fruit from the Tolpuddle Vineyard that is said to have sealed the deal. With the inaugural 2012 wines made by Martin Shaw, Wadewitz took over from the 2013 vintage and has excelled with the site ever since.

The Chardonnay is whole bunch pressed, fermented in French barriques and generally sees 100% malolactic fermentation given the bracing southern-Tasmanian acidity. It then spends nine or ten months in barrel with around 30% new. Pinot Noir sees around 30% to 40% whole bunch and around ten months in barriques with 30-35% of it new.