Vasse Felix DHJ1 Single Plot Chardonnay 2023

The third vintage of this limited release Chardonnay is from the magnificent 2023 vintage in the Margaret River. Grapes are sourced from a tiny plot in the coolest pocket of their vineyard in the Wallcliffe area. The winemaking team was once again blown away by the plot, which produces an outstanding Chardonnay with jasmine floral scents, oyster-like salinity and a logic-defying limestone minerality. A very deliberate choice is made to mature the wine in older, lighter French oak barriques to celebrate its elegance, finesse and searing natural acidity. 100% Gingin clone, matured in seasoned oak for nine months. 

"Oh my, this is really very good. On first glance, it presents as very fine and elegant, reflective of its cooler climate origin, but it metamorphoses as it sits in the mouth, building layer upon layer of fruit, complemented by superb winemaking that, somehow, imparts an extra dimension of goodness (think texture, mouthfeel and depth), without impeding the flow of the fruit for a moment. The length and persistence of flavours are outstanding. Great wine."  Barry Weinman

Grapes are sourced from a tiny plot in the coolest pocket of Vasse Felix's site in the Wallcliffe area. 'J Plot' sits between a tributary for the Boodjidup Creek and the vineyard dam, upon coarse ironstone gravel of the most vivid orange hue. The vines face south-east, receiving cooling influences from both the Indian and Southern Oceans, which allows for gradual, gentle ripening of the grapes.

"Light straw with a hint of yellow and a slight haze. A complex and powerful perfume driven by exceptional yet subtle fruit, seamlessly integrated with savoury fermentation characters of flint and delicate fungi. Subtle notes of lemon pith and honeydew melon mingle with savoury hints of crusty bread and ocean-pool limestone, while delicate nuances of frangipani and herb-infused chicken broth add further intrigue. On the palate, an incredible, powerful line of acidity with an elegant and refreshing, yet full textured and flavoured core. A dry, chalky finish with lingering floral notes, pine timber fragrance, and a touch of lemon rind."  Vasse Felix

Expert reviews

"Do give this some air space as it takes time to reveal its array of flavours and detail. A light brush of florals, all lemon blossom and hoya, with galangal then lemon and grapefruit, gives way to some fleshier fruit of white nectarine. Yet, this is savoury, with an oyster shell brininess, subtle lemon curd lees, white miso and mouth-watering acidity in the driver’s seat. Drink by 2032."  Jane Faulkner, Halliday Wine Companion - 96 points and Special Value Wine  ★  

"Oh my, this is really very good. On first glance, it presents as very fine and elegant, reflective of its cooler climate origin, but it metamorphoses as it sits in the mouth, building layer upon layer of fruit, complemented by superb winemaking that, somehow, imparts an extra dimension of goodness (think texture, mouthfeel and depth), without impeding the flow of the fruit for a moment. The length and persistence of flavours are outstanding. Great wine."  Barry Weinman, Fine Wine Club - 96 points 

"In pure quality terms this is right up there with the Heytesbury release. It is though a cleaner, purer style, its grapefruit and stonefruit characters bell clear, its creamy mouthfeel so perfectly played and placed. I loved the 20222 release of this wine and I love this 2023 as well. It’s a wine of genuine power, noteworthy finesse and outstanding length. It is, essentially, chardonnay in all its glory. Drink: 2025-2033."  Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front - 95 points

"To be precise, the single block reference is DHJ1, which is the coolest pocket in the Vasse Felix vineyard at Wallcliffe. With its noteworthy high acidity (7.5g/L, for those interested) and slightly lower than usual ripeness (12.5% alc.), expect something a little outside the usual Margaret River generous Chardonnay experience. Unfined and unfiltered, it arrives in a cloudy, light yellow hue. A dusty earthy scent mixes with stone fruits, citrus, melon, baked quince, Golden Delicious apple and a hint of pineapple skin. More refined in its features showcasing lemon, grapefruit and aromatics of acacia, citrus blossom and wildflowers with a lot less obvious richness than usual, the palate is fiercely defined in firm acidity and phenolic grip. No new oak features, this is all about the power and persuasive qualities of a special block of grapes, 100% Gingin clone, delivering a strikingly individual expression of Chardonnay. With such an impressive structure already built in, I imagine it will age a treat. Drink: 2025-2036."  Jeni Port, Wine Pilot – 95 points

"The 2023 DHJ1 Single Plot Chardonnay is 100% Gingin clone, matured in seasoned oak for nine months. The fruit is grown in Walcliffe (around the Leeuwin Estate, Xanadu, Voyager, Stella Bella area), and it brings with it an intensity of acid, coupled with an even greater intensity of fruit flavor. If the area had a calling card, it would be one of piercing crystalline intensity. In the mouth, the wine is exactly as the growing area would dictate, with a mineral, crushed rock/shell/graphite cast that lingers long after the wine has gone. The wine lacks some of the nutty, savory complexity inherent in the Heytesbury and even, to a certain extent, the Estate Chardonnay, yet the purity and singular focus of this wine is its calling card. It hails from a magnificent season and will likely endure long into the future. 12.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. Drink by 2025-2038."  Erin Larkin, The Wine Advocate - 95 points

Awards

Special Value Wine – Halliday Wine Companion  ★  

Virginia Willcock

Virginia Willcock is a prodigious talent who has been instrumental in taking the fortunes of Vasse Felix, a heavyweight in Australian wine and Margaret River’s founding wine estate, to the next level. Willcock joined Vasse Felix as Chief Winemaker in October 2006, is still there today, and believes her best wine is still to come.

To date Virginia has completed over 30 vintages in Margaret River, which makes her a respected authority on Margaret River and its terroir. In addition, she has also spent time abroad doing international vintages in Albania, Italy (Trentino, Sicily and Abruzzo) and New Zealand.

Virginia is one of the most awarded female winemakers in Australia, having been named 'Gourmet Traveller WINE Australian Winemaker of the Year' in 2012, 'Winemaker of the Year' by The West Australian Good Wine Guide 2013, and 'Winemaker of the Year' in the 2017 Australian Women in Wine Awards. Virginia was also nominated as 'Winemaker of the Year' in Wine Enthusiast Magazine 2014 Awards and 'Winemaker of the Year' in the ASVO (Australian Society of Viticulture and Oenology) Award for Excellence 2016.

Despite her success, Virginia’s not taking her foot off the accelerator. And she’s constantly learning about the region she loves. "My winemaking has become more about a natural expression from a piece of ground," she says, "and every tiny piece of ground with every [grape] clone and variety behave differently. There’s amazing little personalities that come through that I’ve been able to discover."

Click on image to play video

The article below by Alana House appeared in https://www.drinkstrade.com.au/

Virginia Willcock, winner of Winemaker of the Year at the 2017 Australian Women in Wine Awards (AWIWA), talks to Ray Ruano about following her passion and the challenges of winemaking.

For more than a decade, Virginia Willcock has been spreading the word about the unique, thriving Margaret River region, which has helped shape Vasse Felix into the thriving, global wine estate it is today.

Vasse Felix is celebrating its 50th birthday this year (2017) and was recently rated the best new world winery in the world by US wine publication Wine Enthusiast.

As a respected authority on Margaret River winemaking, Wilcock has represented the unique region through media and trade conventions and as a wine show judge, while completing almost 25 vintages in Margaret River.

Her journey to becoming a winemaker

From the age of 15, Willcock knew the world of winemaking was for her.

"My parents had a little vineyard, north of Perth and one day my dad came home one day and said 'You can study winemaking' and I went 'Wow! That’s exactly what I want to do'," Willcock recalls.

She went on to study winemaking at Roseworthy Agricultural College, which is now a part of the University of Adelaide.

"I loved the idea of growing fruit, and then turning it into something that could be more beautiful and would give people a lot of enjoyment," Willcock noted in a Vasse Felix’s biography.

Throughout her career, Willcock has gained extensive knowledge and experience from her travels on winemaking and the importance of wine regions in regards to the history of the land, soil and air.

She told Wine Australia: "My grape and wine philosophy is a beautiful natural expression of a place… When I smell the forest, smell the ocean, smell the beautiful dirt, I want to see some of that come through in the wine in a natural, earthy, rustic sense."

During her travels through vineyards, she has developed a passion for Cabernet Sauvignon, which is Margaret River’s best performing wine varietal.

Her love of Margaret River, home to Vasse Felix

Located south of Perth, the Margaret River provides a Mediterranean climate that makes it an ideal region for growing grapes and fine wine.

"I am blessed because Margaret River is such a great place to grow grapes, so that makes my job easier," Willcock admits with delight.

She believes that the Margaret River region is one of the greatest in the world as the wines continue to strive to reach their full potential.

"I wouldn’t want to be making wine anywhere else!"

Her passion and best advice

Willcock shared that it is important to have passion for what you do in life.

"You gotta be driven by your passion," she said: I think that if you’re passionate about something, you will always do really well because you love it. I think it’s the love for [winemaking] that has given me that drive to work as hard as you have to as a winemaker."

When asked what advice she would have given herself at the start of her career in wine, she said: "Get some practical experience before you study."

Although her family owned a vineyard, she admits she never participated in any of the winemaking

"Operating pumps, winery equipment, and just understanding what the processes are, from start to finish [is important]."

Life as a winemaker and the challenges of winemaking

As for the most rewarding part of being a winemaker, Willcock simply said: "I think it’s creating something new every year, something that is new and beautiful that represents that year, the conditions, and the place that you’re from."

She makes it clear that because you only get one chance every year, so you cannot "stuff it up".

"There’s an immense satisfaction in finding the best of what you can do on an annual basis," she said.

The winemaking process is a very important one as several decisions go into perfecting a bottle. For Willcock, the decision-making is a special aspect of winemaking.

"A number of decisions are made for every grape batch, when to harvest them, [and] how they will flow in the winery and eventually in the bottle." Willcock said. "Two hundred decisions are made for every little batch of wine. The decision not to do something is just as important as the decision to do something."

Willcock shared that having an intimate understanding of the land and where the grapes are grown is a challenge.

"Understanding the things that make [the land] different and being able to respond to that [is key] because it’s all about nature." Willcock said. "Nature delivers, and you just have to nurture it."

About the winery

Vasse Felix was the first commercial vineyard and winery to be established in the Margaret River region of Western Australia. In 1965 Dr John Gladstones emphasised the region's suitability in his report ‘The Climate and Soils of Southern WA in relation to Vine Growing’. Two years later Dr Tom Cullity planted vines and Vasse Felix was born..

Tom was a cardiologist working in Perth when he decided to turn his hand to growing grapes. He searched obsessively for the perfect plot of land, taking guidance from the research of John Gladstones (1965), looking for 'red gravel in redgum country, with clay about 18 inches below the surface.' He eventually settled on an 8 acre piece of land near Caves Road by the Wilyabrup Brook which he purchased for the princely sum of $75 an acre! Among his first plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec vines was what we now refer to as Houghton clone Cabernet Sauvignon, the core of Margaret River’s finest Cabernets. This original plot of land now forms part of the Vasse Felix Home Vineyard which has been expanded over time to 52 hectares in size.

Tom used to drive down on the gravel roads from Perth to Margaret River after the working week to nurture his young vine plantings, work all weekend, before heading back to his 'day job' late on Sunday afternoons. Tom is quoted as saying of this period: “Much of the time, in different ways, I was on my own. I knew nothing except what I had read in books. There was no local source of basic equipment. Quite a lot of the local farmers must have thought it was a joke.”

In 1984, not long after retiring as a doctor, Tom Cullity sold Vasse Felix to David and Anne Gregg, who in turn sold to the Holmes Court family in 1987. Paul Holmes à Court is the current owner and Chief Executive Officer.

Vasse Felix’s range of wines includes Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Shiraz and Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blends, with the major focus on Cabernet and Chardonnay, the strengths of Margaret River. Grapes are sourced from three Margaret River vineyards; the Home vineyard, Gnarawary vineyard and Adams Road vineyard.

Home Vineyard

The original Vasse Felix vineyard planted by Dr Tom Cullity in 1967 and the site of Margaret River’s oldest vines, with careful expansion made over time. The vineyard is home to Vasse Felix’s winemaking facility where all Vasse Felix wines are made and bottled, as well as the Vasse Felix Cellar Door and Restaurant. Located just 4km from the ocean, the Wilyabrup ridge elevation offers enhanced sea breeze exposure and lean, well-draining gravel loam soils suited to Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Grows fruit for the Icon and Premier wines.

First Planted: 1967 
Soils: Gravel loam over clay 
Sub-region: Wilyabrup 
Altitude Range: 80 - 110 m
Total Area Under Vine: 52 ha

Gnarawary Vineyard

The Gnarawary blocks of this vineyard became part of the Vasse Felix Estate in 2015. Located centrally within the Margaret River Wine Region and experiencing cooler conditions to the Home Vineyard, this site’s free-draining lateritic gravel and moderate climate create an ideal environment for Chardonnay, Shiraz and Sauvignon Blanc. Grows fruit for the Icon and Premier wines and Alternative Collection wines.

First Planted: 1997 
Soils: Gravel and sandy loam over clay 
Sub-region: Wallcliffe 
Altitude Range: 75 - 95 m
Total Area Under Vine: 93 ha

Adams Road Vineyard 

The largest of all the Vasse Felix vineyards, this site was planted in 1998 in the warmer, Carbunup area of Margaret River. The vineyard grows fruit with ripeness, approachability and generosity of flavour, ideal for Vasse Felix’s Regional (Filius) wines and all-occasions Classic Collection wines.

First Planted: 1998 
Soils: Deep red to sandy loam, gravel and clay in areas 
Sub-region: Carbunup 
Altitude Range: 35 - 45 m
Total Area Under Vine: 146 ha

The Home Vineyard

The story of the name 'Vasse Felix' and the bird on the label

An expedition was undertaken by the French to map the coast of Australia (New Holland) from 1800-1803. The expedition discovered the south-west coast of Australia but in 1801 disaster struck when nineteen year old French seaman, Timothee Vasse, was lost in the surf during a raging storm.

While originally thought to have drowned, nobody is sure what happened to the unlucky and unfortunate Vasse. Tom Cullity was an avid historian and hopeful that his vineyard would enjoy a happier fate, he named it Vasse Felix, meaning 'lucky' Vasse - felix being the Latin word for fortunate or luck. 

The bird depicted on the label is a peregrine falcon. Most of the fruit for the first Vasse Felix vintage in 1971 was eaten by native birds, so Tom Cullity decided to train a falcon to keep the birds off the fruiting vines. The exercise, however, proved unsuccessful, as the first time the falcon was released to circle the vineyard it flew straight into the surrounding forest, never to return.